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i see i missed this thread until now, i also have a 75 with a basement sump. feel free to compare.Today I was able to attach the face frame, side panels and rim around the top. Things are finally starting to shape up. The doors are assembled, but they need to be sanded. This week my goal is to sand the doors and install baseboard and crown molding around the stand.
My hole saw for the returns should be here Wednesday. If I can get the return lines drilled, I will put water in the tank and do a 2nd leak test after drilling.
from my limited experience you are probably on the right track with going up a size to prevent constriction. if you support the vinyl so that the weight does not hang from the tank you save line losses that you would get from elbows. your drain to the sump. how does it terminate at the sump? would you need hard pipe at that end? would you need hard pipe from the return pump? i use clear hose coming off of my pump going to pvc to reduce vibration, could you eliminate the pvc at that end and just use barb to barb couplings with the valve? let me know how it goes.I ended up taking the airline out and it seemed to work much better. The water level climbs over the hole when I first turn power on, but quickly drops back down once the siphon starts on the main drain.
I did move the aquarium and stand to its permanent home today. I am ready to start my plumbing through the wall, floor and down into the basement. I had originally planned to use all PVC for my plumbing. Now I'm thinking that vinyl tubing would be much easier and result in less head-loss from having to use 45s and 90s with rigid plumbing. This should not be an issue should it? I would have rigid at the tank, transition to vinyl to get close to the sump and then back to rigid to go into the sump. I was thinking about stepping up to the next larger size of vinyl since the inside diameter of the barbed fittings is smaller that the same size rigid.
Hey, I have halfway solved this. I did go ahead and purchase the Danner Mag-Drive 12. Since the sump will be in my basement, I'm not as worried about heat being put into the system. My basement stays about 65 degrees year round.
I will be drilling the tank. I'm looking at purchasing the overflow box in the link below. I will be using a bean animal overflow.
1200 gph LOW PROFILE Overflow Box with REMOVABLE WEIR
BRAND NEW SUPERIOR DESIGN! MODULAR MARINE'S 1200 gph LOW PROFILE OVERFLOW BOX Features:- 1200+ GPH capability - Entire skimmer box pulls off for easy cleaning! - Slimmest and shortest skimmer box on the market! - This design keeps water line hidden behind trim - Works with rimless, eurobrace...modularmarine.com
I won't be drilling through my hardwood floors. I have access to framing for the wall from below. I will be drilling through the bottom plate on the wall and run my plumbing up through the wall.
Nice build! I had a 75 gal, which I upgraded to my current 180 gal, and in the near future we plan to resurrect the 75 gal. When I had it set up before I had the sump under the tank, but this time we are going to plumb it into the existing basement sump (with the 180 gal DT and 30 gal frag tank).
I had a lot more fish than that in my 75 gal. I think you could get away with a couple more carefully selected smaller fish - maybe a flasher wrasse or some firefish or something. I'm not familiar with "Black Ice" clowns so IDK if they are very aggressive.
I also have a Modular Marine overflow and love it.