99 sure my tank has ick. What what do i do.

[scurvy dawg]

Ok so we are now getting somewhere. So setting up a qt mean I starve the ick in my dt and treat the fish in my qt.

Now understand I'm trying to wrap my head around this. Kick ick is designed to kill ick in its free swimming state. And I've have read many reports that it does in fact work. Idk if and of you follow joey, the do it you self king of aquariums but he supports this product as well.

This is why I'm wondering how many of you have actually tried the product, you have all done things with the 76 day treatment cycle, how many have tried the product because to be honest here its human nature to push aside one idea for the one that you know works.

Here is what I'm going to do I'm going to give this product a shot, I have turned my tank up to 80 degrees o read from you guys that it will help and I've hit the tank with the first does of kick ick. So I'm gonna play this test out and see how it goes.

Keep in mind the only fish that seems infected is my coral beauty every other fish is eating properly their diet is squid pe mysis cobalt pellets and seaweed so its well rounded. I have the enzyme to help with slim coat production. And my snowflake eel is a pig so he's bin great.

Although I love my fish trust me I do, my most expensive fish was only 60 bucks at 55 gallons I havnt spent a lot on any of my fish so knowing that a lose could happen. I'm going to give this a shot.

I plan on in the future getting a 130 gallon tank in which I plan on doing a live coral reef for that tank I know a couple qt tanks will be mandatory but for now I wanna see if this works.

I thank you all for you opinions and your hard work on driving this into my head but being that there are so my opinion and this is my first salt water tank I feel it might be best to learn from mistakes I may have before I get involved in the 130 reef tank that I only currently dream about. For it is that tank that I will be going all out.

Don't blame you for trying the Kickich, but if there is one bit of advice I can give you is to listen to the guys and gals on this forum (most of them anyways ). The beauty of forums like this is that other people have made the mistakes on our behalf and they are more than willing to share that experience with us. I can't count how many mistakes I was able to avoid and the money I was able to save, just because someone here took the time to share their experiences both good and bad. Also, remember, LFS can be a real help in this hobby, but they don't always have your best interest at heart. I always research to backup the advice I get from my LFS.

 

[Joshua Agostoni]

Yeah I totally agree with that.. sad news though my coral beauty was badly infected the only fish that really was, he never really took to the tank and got beat up by the others and wasn't eating properly sadly today he passed. On one hand the infected fish is now gone from the tank on the other hand its a sad day. With the infected fish gone and the others doing good i think the kick ick will do its job. But do plan on setting up a qt tank before I get anymore fish.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Yeah I totally agree with that.. sad news though my coral beauty was badly infected the only fish that really was, he never really took to the tank and got beat up by the others and wasn't eating properly sadly today he passed. On one hand the infected fish is now gone from the tank on the other hand its a sad day. With the infected fish gone and the others doing good i think the kick ick will do its job. But do plan on setting up a qt tank before I get anymore fish.

I don't want to be negative, but if one fish is infected then they all are...even with the coral beauty gone. If you do plan on setting up a QT for future purposes it would be better to treat your remaining fish FIRST and let the tank run fallow, before buying new fish to QT. Otherwise, you are just going to be working hard to make your new arrivals disease free- only to drop them in an infested tank.

On the other hand, right now you are managing ich...if you happen across velvet it's likely you won't be as lucky. Many "ich managed" tanks end up felled by velvet or brook. So, QTing new arrivals will help there even if they do end up succumbing to ich after introduction. At least they won't be toting velvet to wipe out your "ich-immune" fish as well.

 

[Daniel@R2R]

I understand the desire to use the kick ich, and it may work as an ich management plan for the moment, but it will not eradicate the ich (and I HAVE tried it when I first started in saltwater). The issue is that all of the ich in your tank will not be in the same stage at the same time, so killing only the free swimmers (if it manages to do that) will not kill them all. It sounds like your other fish are resistant to the ich (to a point), but @ngoodermuth is correct. Even if the fish aren't infected enough to show the spots, they do still have it. Once it's in the tank, only a treatment that kills in all stages (like copper or hypo-salinity) will eradicate it.

I also agree with the counsel given that even if you do not qt and treat the fish you currently have, you should qt all future fish...this is coming from a guy who lost an entire tank (180g) to velvet from introducing 1 fish (which I planned to be my last one) that was infected.

 

[melypr1985]

I've used it and it doesn't work. Keep in mind I have 7 different systems that I care for at work and get access to all kinds of different things to try. I've tried several of the "reef safe" remedies and not a single one has done anything. The freshwater guys seem to like it and it seems to work for them, but freshwater ich and marine ick are two totally different things.

 

[Joshua Agostoni]

Ok well now I want a link to the forums valet and brook page cause i have no idea what that is.

 

[Maritimer]

Here's the link to Humblefish's concise and understandable outline for velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum): https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/#post-2499399

Velvet is something I hope you never see, but something you should be prepared to recognize and deal with - it's common, and it's a swift killer. Kind of like ich on crack.

And here's the link to a similar thread for Brooklynella - normally a disease of clownfish, but any fish can contract it, and clowns generally share systems with other fish all through the pipeline: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/

You can find links to information on most diseases in this post by Melypr1985: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-disease-index-pictorial-guide.285708/ - which, along with a lot of other great info, is stickied at the top of the Fish Disease forum.

~Bruce

 

[Joshua Agostoni]

Ok i don't have brook thank God and I just read a velvet page while waiting for a response and I don't think I have that but velvet and ick can both be treated with copper. So that's good to know.

So here is my qt questions. I have a 10 gallon tank a 30 gallon poeerhead an extra heater. Will that be good for a qt. The 10 gallon is my auto top off tank right now but i can use anything for that. Or should I get a 20 gallon and a canister filter cause frankly if I'm gonna set this up I want it to be ready when I need it.

 

[4FordFamily]

One thing I didn't see anyone point out amongst the great points added--- (I agree with every poster since mine as well, if that's any help at all), is that turning your temperature up does not help, in fact it may hurt.

Warmer water holds less oxygen, parasite infested gills (their gills are always far worse than their exterior) need MORE oxygen. Also, marine ich is not marginally impacted by temperature increases -- but even if it was (and to be fair, some say it does this is not definitive IMO), you'd be increasing the life cycle of the parasite making it reproduce faster, leading to a fish less likely to build a resistance before succumbing (more parasites reproducing and attacking more rapidly).

Also, increasing heat can (and usually does) increase stress on fish, which weakens their immune system making them more susceptible to parasites and disease.

So in short, increasing temperature is likely going to cause more harm than good, in several ways.

 

[Maritimer]

If you're not planning to set up and run the QT right away, take the time to put it together correctly - and make it big enough to handle all of your fish, or at least all the ones you'd like to transfer to the reef when you set it up.

You should also note that eels (which are fish, and can contract ich) don't typically do well in copper. You'll want to source some CP for him, eventually.

~Bruce

 

[melypr1985]

So here is my qt questions. I have a 10 gallon tank a 30 gallon poeerhead an extra heater. Will that be good for a qt. The 10 gallon is my auto top off tank right now but i can use anything for that. Or should I get a 20 gallon and a canister filter cause frankly if I'm gonna set this up I want it to be ready when I need it.

Personally I don't think you need anything huge like a canister filter. They can be difficult to clean and will probably be more of a pain that a help. A simple HOB filter rated larger than the tank you are using will suffice. Depending on the size and amount of fish you will be running through the QT at one time larger will probably be better. the powerhead and heater should be fine provided the heater isn't too large and isn't too small for the volume of water.

One thing I didn't see anyone point out amongst the great points added--- (I agree with every poster since mine as well, if that's any help at all), is that turning your temperature up does not help, in fact it may hurt.

Warmer water holds less oxygen, parasite infested gills (their gills are always far worse than their exterior) need MORE oxygen. Also, marine ich is not marginally impacted by temperature increases -- but even if it was (and to be fair, some say it does this is not definitive IMO), you'd be increasing the life cycle of the parasite making it reproduce faster, leading to a fish less likely to build a resistance before succumbing (more parasites reproducing and attacking more rapidly).

You should also note that eels (which are fish, and can contract ich) don't typically do well in copper. You'll want to source some CP for him, eventually.

Great points here. Good catches guys.

 

[4FordFamily]

Personally I don't think you need anything huge like a canister filter. They can be difficult to clean and will probably be more of a pain that a help. A simple HOB filter rated larger than the tank you are using will suffice. Depending on the size and amount of fish you will be running through the QT at one time larger will probably be better. the powerhead and heater should be fine provided the heater isn't too large and isn't too small for the volume of water.





Great points here. Good catches guys.

We make a great team!

 

[enveetie]

make sure you don't put any sand in your QT. you wouldn't want any sand to get stuck to the fish now; defeats the purpose of even having the QT.

 

[Joshua Agostoni]

make sure you don't put any sand in your QT. you wouldn't want any sand to get stuck to the fish now; defeats the purpose of even having the QT.

Dude you need to grow up your remarks are not wanted or needed.

 

[SomethingCool]

If you don't approve just unfollow the thread. Look how the OPs view on a QT has changed since the first post. All from positive counseling and reinforcement... Not your condescension and sarcasm so please take that elsewhere.

Not trying to overstep my bounds or onto toes but most all of us have been there

 

[Humblefish]

@enveetie Enough is enough. We agree Kick Ich won't work, the OP needs to treat his fish properly in QT & go fallow, etc. But at the end of the day, its his decision to make. IME; beating somebody over the head usually just makes them go the other way.

 

[LuckyPhil]

Definitely agree with HumbleFish here- you can't force someone to make a decision, if they don't listen then it's ok, sometimes lessons are learnt the hard way.
I can (and I think we all can) relate to Joshua, in my early years of reef keeping I was insistent that these snake oil treatments work.
I mean take a look at polyp labs medic website reviews it is convincing enough for a beginner reefer to believe it works.

 

[NeuroticAquatics]

The scary thing is that some of these "remedies" do seem to work for some people, some of the time. I've known a couple people that know their stuff and that swear by Kick Ich. I'm more a fan of going the proven route. Everyone has to make their own decisions though. In the end, if their way worked for them and there are no future outbreaks, it's mission accomplished in my book.

 

[Joshua Agostoni]

Personally even though I do love my fish, I look at this as a learning experience. As I said above eventually I want to have a full 130 gallon live reef tank and in that tank I will be putting in fish that are a couple of hundred dollars so this 55 g is my starter tank which was going to become my qt tank. So I'm learning mistakes will be made but it's good for me to see thing unfold so I'm well prepared for the big tank.

 

[GHsaltie]

So while you are trying this out, now is a perfect time to do some research on QT and especially the various illnesses that you may end up facing in this hobby. That way when you are ready to start the 130 you know how to properly QT and effectively eliminate the chances of something much worse attacking your $$$ fish, such as velvet, Brook, or ugh bacterial infections. Good luck, we are always here ready to help. The only stupid question is the one not asked!