Ai coral grow Blades spectrum

Reefer_Hector

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Salem
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey guys! My name is Hector been in the hubby for just over a year. I recently upgraded from a 25gal waterbox peninsula to a Marine X110.
Parameters are
PH: 8.2
NH4: 0
PO4: 0.01
NO2: 0
NO3: 0.4
KH: 7.7
Cal: 536
Mag:1130
Question:
I have a single AI Coral Grow 39"(for now)
What should be my spectrum?
This is how I have it now and my 2 test corals are have bleached.

20240319_092641.jpg 20240319_092634.jpg Screenshot_20240319_092500.jpg
 

Spare time

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 12, 2019
Messages
12,234
Reaction score
9,836
Location
Here
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
They look dead, not bleached. The coral probably died from you having 0 nitrate and phosphate. I'd also imagine the par is relatively low at those settings.
 
Upvote 0

jda

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
14,325
Reaction score
22,182
Location
Boulder, CO
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Those are definately dead. There could be a lot of reasons why, but I would look past no3 and po4 as the reason. I have lower levels than .01 and .40 and my corals do not die. These readings mean that you have some surplus of nitrogen and phosphorous. They might have not have grown or colored the way that you might like, but this would not cause death.

I do not know how much light that a single 39" blade puts out. You ever check the output? Even low light does not kill corals overnight and those look like they have been dead for a while.

Moves are hard. New tanks after moves can be hard.
 
Upvote 0

Spare time

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Apr 12, 2019
Messages
12,234
Reaction score
9,836
Location
Here
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Those are definately dead. There could be a lot of reasons why, but I would look past no3 and po4 as the reason. I have lower levels than .01 and .40 and my corals do not die. These readings mean that you have some surplus of nitrogen and phosphorous. They might have not have grown or colored the way that you might like, but this would not cause death.

I do not know how much light that a single 39" blade puts out. You ever check the output? Even low light does not kill corals overnight and those look like they have been dead for a while.

Moves are hard. New tanks after moves can be hard.


I strongly disagree on ignoring nitrate and phosphate. The danger of those low levels is that it means the minimum amount eh tank needs is either close to, at or below what is being inputted, especially given the error margins of test kits. Having some nitrate and phosphate acts as a buffer, and shows that you are at least meeting the minemum requirement of the tanks nitrogen and phosphate demand. Yes it can be fine to have ultra low levels, but that assumes that the tank has enough input in the first place and those 0's don't tell you that to be the case because of the error on tests.
 
Upvote 0

jda

10K Club member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
14,325
Reaction score
22,182
Location
Boulder, CO
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
A buffer for what? Surplus of building blocks is a surplus still. no3 and po4 are not energy where you can do things with the excess. Even if you think that they are low and organic tissue is not able to grow as fast, this almost never means death and when it does, it is over long periods of time. Hosts can recycle building blocks for their symbionts to maintain and just live without growing.
 
Upvote 0

CBonito

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Messages
1,114
Reaction score
1,301
Location
Detroit Area
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It's probably just too early to put corals in your tank.

I waited like 3 months before I added any corals to my tank and started with euphyllia as test corals which were a little cranky the first few days. Typical, but they are all still alive now and so are the 15 colonies of acropora and montipora...

What do you have for rock and sand and what have you done to stimulate growth of microfauna? Have you ever added any real live sand? Not the caribsea crap in a bag. I mean real live sand with life in it...I would order some florida keys live sand from Floridapets. It's a great way to get your tank's biodiversity moving forward and it's legit. You can also order some I think from Tampa Bay Saltwater which is another great place.

*I have never had a tank do good that didn't already have populations of microfauna before adding corals.*

Moving forward, turn up your lights and let things run for a while before trying again. Looks to me like things may need to just age a bit. And that's fine. Moving into a larger system is always a hard strain on the biome because everything is disturbed and has to re-establish. While this is happening, corals won't be their happiest.
 
Upvote 0

twentyleagues

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 27, 2023
Messages
2,223
Reaction score
2,449
Location
Flint
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hey guys! My name is Hector been in the hubby for just over a year. I recently upgraded from a 25gal waterbox peninsula to a Marine X110.
Parameters are
PH: 8.2
NH4: 0
PO4: 0.01
NO2: 0
NO3: 0.4
KH: 7.7
Cal: 536
Mag:1130
Question:
I have a single AI Coral Grow 39"(for now)
What should be my spectrum?
This is how I have it now and my 2 test corals are have bleached.

20240319_092641.jpg 20240319_092634.jpg Screenshot_20240319_092500.jpg
Did those corals come from your 25g? What did they look like before the move? How long did that take? 1 39" blade is probably not enough for that tank. I dont know all these crazy waterbox/red sea/ IM tank actual dimensions vs part numbers so I have to look them up. Your tank is 48"x20x22 roughly 75g right? I would get 2 48" blades probably grows but you could add a glow for 3 total. Setting is very low would think with the tank footprint and the light size you probably had about 50par under the light. Too low for most corals.
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
R

Reefer_Hector

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Salem
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Those are definately dead. There could be a lot of reasons why, but I would look past no3 and po4 as the reason. I have lower levels than .01 and .40 and my corals do not die. These readings mean that you have some surplus of nitrogen and phosphorous. They might have not have grown or colored the way that you might like, but this would not cause death.

I do not know how much light that a single 39" blade puts out. You ever check the output? Even low light does not kill corals overnight and those look like they have been dead for a while.

Moves are hard. New tanks after moves can be hard.
I have not check the output on the light. I will check that. The coral did died 2 day after I placed them in. The tank has been going for 6 months.
 
Upvote 0
OP
OP
R

Reefer_Hector

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Salem
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Did those corals come from your 25g? What did they look like before the move? How long did that take? 1 39" blade is probably not enough for that tank. I dont know all these crazy waterbox/red sea/ IM tank actual dimensions vs part numbers so I have to look them up. Your tank is 48"x20x22 roughly 75g right? I would get 2 48" blades probably grows but you could add a glow for 3 total. Setting is very low would think with the tank footprint and the light size you probably had about 50par under the light. Too low for most corals.
The corals did come from the 25gal. They looked great prior the move. See pics. The tank is 79 gallons. I'm planning on getting another grow and 1 glow to place in the center. They are about 2 inch from the edge. I'll rent a par meter and follow up.
 

Attachments

  • 20240319_191042.jpg
    20240319_191042.jpg
    103.1 KB · Views: 9
  • 20240319_191035.jpg
    20240319_191035.jpg
    133.3 KB · Views: 11
Upvote 0
OP
OP
R

Reefer_Hector

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 27, 2023
Messages
9
Reaction score
1
Location
Salem
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It's probably just too early to put corals in your tank.

I waited like 3 months before I added any corals to my tank and started with euphyllia as test corals which were a little cranky the first few days. Typical, but they are all still alive now and so are the 15 colonies of acropora and montipora...

What do you have for rock and sand and what have you done to stimulate growth of microfauna? Have you ever added any real live sand? Not the caribsea crap in a bag. I mean real live sand with life in it...I would order some florida keys live sand from Floridapets. It's a great way to get your tank's biodiversity moving forward and it's legit. You can also order some I think from Tampa Bay Saltwater which is another great place.

*I have never had a tank do good that didn't already have populations of microfauna before adding corals.*

Moving forward, turn up your lights and let things run for a while before trying again. Looks to me like things may need to just age a bit. And that's fine. Moving into a larger system is always a hard strain on the biome because everything is disturbed and has to re-establish. While this is happening, corals won't be their happiest.

It's probably just too early to put corals in your tank.

I waited like 3 months before I added any corals to my tank and started with euphyllia as test corals which were a little cranky the first few days. Typical, but they are all still alive now and so are the 15 colonies of acropora and montipora...

What do you have for rock and sand and what have you done to stimulate growth of microfauna? Have you ever added any real live sand? Not the caribsea crap in a bag. I mean real live sand with life in it...I would order some florida keys live sand from Floridapets. It's a great way to get your tank's biodiversity moving forward and it's legit. You can also order some I think from Tampa Bay Saltwater which is another great place.

*I have never had a tank do good that didn't already have populations of microfauna before adding corals.*

Moving forward, turn up your lights and let things run for a while before trying again. Looks to me like things may need to just age a bit. And that's fine. Moving into a larger system is always a hard strain on the biome because everything is disturbed and has to re-establish. While this is happening, corals won't be their happiest.
For sand I have "Caribsea crap"and dry rock which has been in the tank for over 6 months also have some live rock in the sump. I will turn the lights up. Here are some pics from my 25gal using the same sand and rock.
 

Attachments

  • 20240319_193529.jpg
    20240319_193529.jpg
    156.6 KB · Views: 13
  • 20240319_193522.jpg
    20240319_193522.jpg
    173 KB · Views: 12
  • 20240319_193515.jpg
    20240319_193515.jpg
    147.1 KB · Views: 16
Upvote 0

twentyleagues

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 27, 2023
Messages
2,223
Reaction score
2,449
Location
Flint
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
For sand I have "Caribsea crap"and dry rock which has been in the tank for over 6 months also have some live rock in the sump. I will turn the lights up. Here are some pics from my 25gal using the same sand and rock.
I personally think it was a difference in parameters including par. What did your 25g test at compared to the 79g? The gotta have real ocean live rock and sand to keep salt tanks is outta hand. Does it help sure. Can it hurt yup. Dry rock dry sand bottled bac works fine too, its just a different type of issues thing.
 
Upvote 0

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 45 20.8%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 75 34.7%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 72 33.3%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 20 9.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 1.9%
Back
Top