Ammonia and Prime

[Neptune 555]

In my QT tank I always dose prime. The ammonia alert badge for the other 3 TTM showed alert and I ignored it b/c I assumed the prime neutralized the ammonia but the badge still shows the ammonia. Then I purchased an API Ammonia test kit b/c this constant ammonia reading was driving me nuts even though it was low. The test kit says basically I am a horrible test kit.. and if you show ammonia treat with a neutralizer and then I am totally ineffective to let you know if ammonia is a problem in your tank.

THIS TTM the ammonia alert shows TOXIC. I added prime like all other TTM.. and ran the water for 20 hours before adding fish. Each time I added the same dose it is a 10 gallon tank so I did less then 1/2 capfull. I have one powerhead blowing upward creating strong surface agitation. Do I need to add more Prime and how do I get an accurate reading of ammonia? The fish look good... but I am almost at the end of my TTM protocol and would be so upset if after all of this ammonia kills my fish!! Why this time is my ammonia reading so much higher? and how do I ensure my fish are actually safe?

They were placed in this tank at 8:00am this morning. I plan on keeping them in here until Monday am when they go into DT!!

thank you!
Neptune

PS The fairy wrasse is doing better.. out and swimming and feeding.

 

[Humblefish]

I'm not sure if this is the issue, but there is a trick to reading the Seachem ammonia alert badge. You have to shine a bright white light either directly overhead or behind it. For this reason I only use white bulbs on my QT. The badge will always look green in the dark or even under ambient lighting.

 

[Neptune 555]

Humble fish... OK that is crazy... Yes I shine a bright white led flashlight behind the alert badge and it is yellow. I remove the light and it is light blue! So I can rest better. Knowing logically that I dosed with prime and the fish are in a new QT I ASSUMED it was ok. But don't want to leave it to chance. The one short cut I do take.. is that during QT I use tap water and salt mix. For my Reef fishtanks I only use RODI water that I make.

thank you!
Neptune

 

[melypr1985]

The badge will always look green in the dark or even under ambient lighting.

I have had this problem as well with the badges. Always use the white light, it will save you some gray hairs. lol

 

[Humblefish]

It will save you some gray hairs.

I already have too many of those.

 

[Neptune 555]

So I find this so frustrating... b/c I wonder if ammonia is the root cause to my issues with the fairy wrasse? All fish are still hanging in.. I see no white spots but previously my wrasse was breathing heavy and hiding. AND today I saw my starry blenny dfn flashing... (so maybe I do have a tad bit of ich that TTM will remove) So I am forced to do a 50% water change with RODI water just so I can be sure I am safe? It is odd that it is BLUE until I flash the light then yes yellow. Before it was green then I flashed the light yellow. Nervous.

When you do TTM do you use RODI or tap water? I feel like my one lazy step is the root cause. My RODI systems is 2 floors down.. I was trying to reduce the need to carry the buckets of water UP the stairs.

Neptune.

 

[melypr1985]

When you do TTM do you use RODI or tap water?

I always use RODI water for everything that involves my fish or my tank. When your doing TTM and only dealing with fish, it's probably fine, but you never know what all is in your tap water that the prime isn't removing, ya know?

It is odd that it is BLUE until I flash the light then yes yellow. Before it was green then I flashed the light yellow. Nervous.

Not odd at all. I experience this type of confusion with the badges I use all the time. As long as it's yellow with the white light, I rest easy.

 

[Humblefish]

^^Another option for TTM is to use water stored from a recent DT water change. Of course, this is only a good idea if you are entirely sure your DT is disease-free.