Anemone Compatibility Spreadsheet!
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Hadonni and Malu are both sand dwellars and really should be provided a sand bed just FYI, wonder how they deal w outFirst post. Been lurking for years but thought I might as well join the conversations now.
Here is my picture of my Haddoni and Malu. They touch frequently. It's already on the compatibility chart but nice to have a photo.
potatocouch
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It would be interesting to see too for BTA without any rocks
olecaptainj
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This “chart” really needs to be deleted and made over.
It is painfully obvious the author had/has no real world experience with these specimens and just went bent heresay....
Not only that is incomplete, a mess and void of any factual information.
/rant
It is painfully obvious the author had/has no real world experience with these specimens and just went bent heresay....
Not only that is incomplete, a mess and void of any factual information.
/rant
H3rm1tCr@b
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Hey I’m also intrigued
H3rm1tCr@b
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Hey that’s a bit harsh don’t you think? I think we stepped on some toes guys.
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I feel like this chart is complety wrong. I have my bta living happily touching my haddoni. Also my gig and haddoni all touch each other. My lta and carpets touch as well. I also have a ritteri with a haddoni although they don't touch. In my opinion all anemones can be housed in the same tank as long as you can provide all of them with the right conditionsHello Everyone! After much help from our fellow reefers and the rest of the reefing communities around the world, I was able to compile an Anemone Compatibility Sheet!
This Sheet Addresses the Following:
- Which Anemones can be housed and touch in an aquarium (listed with √)
- Which Anemones can NOT touch each other (and is not recommended to be housed together either) (listed with X)
And here is the most up to date draft
Special Thanks To: @ja4207 @Nemguy123 @Psiber_Syn @DeepSeaPhilosopher @4FordFamily @OrionN , and the many other users whom have contributed
and all of the Moderators for making this Sheet happen! The Research is still continuing at the moment.
It really not that simple. Anemone can fight sometime and not other time. I don’t think there can be a list.
I don’t think there is chemical warfare between anemones. Just local fighting sometime. Healthy anemones don’t Intentional release Chemical into the water to harm each other. Chew up anemone is different. Compromised anemones may leak nematocysts into the water and kill other animals. An example of this is PH torn up Magnifica releasing nematocysts which sting the gill of fish and kill them. Tank wipe out which happen often.
I don’t think the chart is of any use and does not give reliable or accurate information. It certainly should not be in the sticky section of the forum.
I don’t think there is chemical warfare between anemones. Just local fighting sometime. Healthy anemones don’t Intentional release Chemical into the water to harm each other. Chew up anemone is different. Compromised anemones may leak nematocysts into the water and kill other animals. An example of this is PH torn up Magnifica releasing nematocysts which sting the gill of fish and kill them. Tank wipe out which happen often.
I don’t think the chart is of any use and does not give reliable or accurate information. It certainly should not be in the sticky section of the forum.
Weasel1960
Valuable Member
This is awesome and will be helpful as I make selections for my first tank. Do you know of any compatibility charts for Anemones with LPS, Softies, fish etc.? I realize in a large tank placement is everything but if an anemone moves around... I have also looked at Live Aquaria, while they give good descriptions of their livestock they don’t always say what is or is not compatible with it.Hello Everyone! After much help from our fellow reefers and the rest of the reefing communities around the world, I was able to compile an Anemone Compatibility Sheet!
This Sheet Addresses the Following:
- Which Anemones can be housed and touch in an aquarium (listed with √)
- Which Anemones can NOT touch each other (and is not recommended to be housed together either) (listed with X)
And here is the most up to date draft
Special Thanks To: @ja4207 @Nemguy123 @Psiber_Syn @DeepSeaPhilosopher @4FordFamily @OrionN , and the many other users whom have contributed
and all of the Moderators for making this Sheet happen! The Research is still continuing at the moment.
PicassoClown04
5000 Club Member
Okay so I'm reviving this VERY old thread . I have two tanks that have both RFA and BTA anemones.
Tank 1:
I bought 6 very healthy, colorful rock flower nems and added them to the 20 gallon tank which already had a medium sized RBTA. The RBTA had been in residence for quite some time, at least a few months. 2-3 months after adding the rock flowers I noticed that I only had 1 healthy one left, one shriveled and sickly one, one that was TINY and completely bleached, and all the others had died. All of the RFA were bought from the same source as a package deal.
Tank 2:
I bought 5 very healthy RFA and added them to the 25 gallon tank that already had a medium CSB that had been there for about 2 months. Within a month, there was only 1 RFA left and all the others had melted into nothing. All the RFA were bought from the same source (a different one than the other pack) and were shipped/acclimated together.
So, my question is, are the RFA dying due to the BTA being there? Like an anemone warfare thing, kind of like how we see with BTA that are kept together? Both of the living RFA are super vibrant, huge, and seemingly very healthy. Both of the tanks are bare bottom, does that make a difference? The RFAs in both tanks have settled between the glass and a rock, kind of underneath the rock. Is there a big secret to keeping RFA that I'm just missing entirely?
. I have two tanks that have both RFA and BTA anemones. Tank 1:
I bought 6 very healthy, colorful rock flower nems and added them to the 20 gallon tank which already had a medium sized RBTA. The RBTA had been in residence for quite some time, at least a few months. 2-3 months after adding the rock flowers I noticed that I only had 1 healthy one left, one shriveled and sickly one, one that was TINY and completely bleached, and all the others had died. All of the RFA were bought from the same source as a package deal.
Tank 2:
I bought 5 very healthy RFA and added them to the 25 gallon tank that already had a medium CSB that had been there for about 2 months. Within a month, there was only 1 RFA left and all the others had melted into nothing. All the RFA were bought from the same source (a different one than the other pack) and were shipped/acclimated together.
So, my question is, are the RFA dying due to the BTA being there? Like an anemone warfare thing, kind of like how we see with BTA that are kept together? Both of the living RFA are super vibrant, huge, and seemingly very healthy. Both of the tanks are bare bottom, does that make a difference? The RFAs in both tanks have settled between the glass and a rock, kind of underneath the rock. Is there a big secret to keeping RFA that I'm just missing entirely?
blueridgereef
Active Member
Is there a similar chart to this for BTA types? Like I think people have had problems keeping Black Widows with other BTA varieties...would be a great resource if someone (like me lol) wanted to do a dedicated nem tank...
PicassoClown04
5000 Club Member
I wouldn’t mix nems, especially as you get into “designers” they become very intolerant to other BTA
This is great, as a newbie is there something like this that is Anrmone and coral compatibility?
JohnTheReefer
Active Member
Here is a quote from an earlier post:
"Anemones move, as such they can move onto things that either hurt the anemone or animal they move onto.
Personally over the years I've lost or had sever injuries to many of corals due to anemone movements. Including one near tank wipe out from a MP40 that an anemone crossed with. Basically resulted in a blender of anemone bits all over everything. Wiped out 70% of the livestock including the fish before I could contain and begin the healing.
So to put it mildly, reef safe..... no. With extreme caution is a better way to put it.
With that, most people have them in their reefs. Its hard to ignore the beauty of the symbiotic relation of a clown and its anemone."
High Plains Reefer
Community Member
ok so I have a sherman and a colorado sunburst in the same tank probably about 18-24 inches apart is this ok the only reason i ask is that my colorado sunburst never seem to thrive but the sherman on the other hand seem very happy I had someone offer me a chicago sunburst also and I'm wondering if I could add it or am I already pushing it btw the tank is a lagoon style 150g rubbermaid stock tank
JohnTheReefer
Active Member
If they are all BTAs then they will be ok to keep in the same tank.
ClownWrangler
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't risk it with anything expensive unless you have spares. Some people have no issues, but there are also plenty of people to vouch for the fact that it can end badly. I think water column size may be a factor. But I played musical tanks with BTAs for a while to get to the bottom of it. In the end I confirmed with certainty that at least in a small tank, certain BTAs will kill each other. After the dust settled, I lost 2 black widows and a green, but the RBTAs fully recovered and never deflate any more now that they are alone. I know for certain the Black widows and RBTAs are a bad combination. However I have a wild type that is purple with green tips that is getting along fine with a white flecked orange one in a 10 gallon tank. I learned my lesson. I think its ok to try it out, but always be ready to move one to another tank. The things to look for are random deflation with the tentacles looking like spaghetti and paralyzed. They will stay like this for a few hours or longer and come back. If it happens enough, it will die. I found this only happens when I mix incompatible BTAs and can continue for some time after they are separated, but eventually subsides if you catch it soon enough. It does not seem to matter if they are touching either.
I think RBTAs are the most hardy ones you can get and the best option for a beginner, but they are also the most aggressive toward others. I'm not sure which ones did in the black widows, but form here on out I will be giving RBTAs and black widows there own tanks. I think having separate tanks is better anyway, because you can have more types of clown pairs.
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Mjl714
Valuable Member
Any additional thoughts on the compatibility of a Chicago Sunburst (one) with rainbow bta’s (several) in an 30 gallon? I was noticing what I think was contact fighting, and last Friday (a week ago) separated the nems. The Chicago is on its own rock a good distance from the others. The Chicago deflates for several hours just about when the light comes on. I believe I see your spaghetti reference, but not sure about the “paralyzed” reference. In the latter each night and in the morning the Chicago appears normal so far.
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