BRS Heater Questions

[Brew12]

I love that you guys have come out with a line of heaters but I have a few questions....

Is the ground wire from the cord connected to the titanium housing or to an internal component?

Is the titanium housing filled with a potting material or is it air? If it is filled, has the filling used been confirmed to be relatively reef safe at elevated temperatures?

Are there bare electrical wires/elements inside the titanium housing or is it electrically insulated?

Thanks for any info you can provide, I'm hoping to be comfortable to use these as a replacement this fall.



How about a tip for those who have an Apex/Profilux that want redundancy but find adding an external temp controller too much? My GHL is set to maintain temp at 78F and my tank can get as high as 79.5. I have it programmed to alarm and send an email at 80.5F and it shuts down the return pump at 82F. I figure my tank can run for days with the return pump off but it can cook in under 8 hours.
As an extra measure of reliability I run a second temp probe in my DT. It generates the same alarm and shutdown as the probe that controls my heaters. I also have an alarm that lets me know if temperature deviates by 0.5F to let me know I have either lost my return pump or I have a temp probe issue.

 

[DLHDesign]

(TL;DR - following)

Curious on these answers as well. I've got two units on the way already, so I've pulled the trigger anywho. But still; good to know. ;-)

Also on the controller; as has been suggested multiple times on BRS, I managed to set up my fish room with two dedicated circuits and have an EB832 plugged into each, with one heater on each EB832. Which means that to fully use the controller, I'd have to get two for full redundancy. I've been considering getting just one controller and using that on my "high" setting Apex outlet - with the heater set to turn off at a lower temp just running straight from the Apex outlet. Given that I already run (like @Brew12) two temp probes in the tank, I'm not really feeling like I need much more redundancy, however.
Especially given that my tank rarely runs under 80F - and that's with the heaters never turning on. Not exactly sure where all the heat is coming from - could be the three pumps, or the bank of 8 T5's, or the 4 Radions, or the 50W UV, or the skimmer, or... Okay; yeah - never mind on that temp thing.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

@Brew12 are those the new ones where it comes w the two heaters with the controller?

 

[DLHDesign]

@Brew12 are those the new ones where it comes w the two heaters with the controller?

Titanium Heater Element

A Reliable Long-Term Heating Element! We have been on the hunt for a reliable heating element that solves a lot of the issues we currently have with other heaters in the hobby. We have always had issues with heaters that have built-in controllers and segregating the controller out from the...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

There are also bundles with the BRS controller as well (see the "You may also be interested in..." section in the link above.)

 

[Brew12]

Hello,

@Brew12 are those the new ones where it comes w the two heaters with the controller?

Yes. I will be getting them without the controller.

 

[Brew12]

I've been considering getting just one controller and using that on my "high" setting Apex outlet - with the heater set to turn off at a lower temp just running straight from the Apex outlet. Given that I already run (like @Brew12) two temp probes in the tank, I'm not really feeling like I need much more redundancy, however.

The only concern there is if the Apex outlet fails to turn off. Less likely with the new EB832's than with outlets 4 and 8 on the older EB 8's, but still possible.
My system is all run from one circuit since I don't have a fish room. Sure wish I did! I have 3 power bars, 2 in one GFCI and one on a 2nd GFCI. I have 2 heaters split between the GFCI's. The high temp shutoff of the return pump protects me if one of the outlets gets stuck gated on.

 

[MrWheelock]

I believe these are just eheim/ schego heaters tbh.

 

[Brew12]

I believe these are just eheim/ schego heaters tbh.

I suspect that Schego makes them for BRS. That doesn't mean they aren't made to a custom specification. BRS isn't going to set up a manufacturing facility to produce heaters. Just like EcoTech and Neptune don't actually make pumps. They have motor manufacturers make the pumps to their specifications.

 

[MrWheelock]

I suspect that Schego makes them for BRS. That doesn't mean they aren't made to a custom specification. BRS isn't going to set up a manufacturing facility to produce heaters. Just like EcoTech and Neptune don't actually make pumps. They have motor manufacturers make the pumps to their specifications.

I'm doing some research to see how they are made. It's unlikely BRS asked for a custom size or confuguration vs. Just using what is already made. Its quite costly sometimes to change existing configurations.

 

[Feet4Fish]

Pretty sure you are right. I think they mentioned on their release video that Schego manufactures the heating element

 

[Brew12]

I'm doing some research to see how they are made. It's unlikely BRS asked for a custom size or confuguration vs. Just using what is already made. Its quite costly sometimes to change existing configurations.

I don't believe that Schego makes a standard 120V heater. It's possible that is the only change that BRS requested which would still be a custom configuration.

 

[motortrendz]

Following. Those are good questions.

 

[MrWheelock]

I don't believe that Schego makes a standard 120V heater. It's possible that is the only change that BRS requested which would still be a custom configuration.

Valid point

 

[MrWheelock]

They say in thier video that the end is filled with epoxy. I wish someone had a water jet we could cut one in half with. The more I dig into these the less legitimate info I find.

 

[Brew12]

They say in thier video that the end is filled with epoxy. I wish someone had a water jet we could cut one in half with. The more I dig into these the less legitimate info I find.

I need to find this video and watch it. I suspected it would be filled with something to improve heat transfer and lock the heating element in place.
I would like to know if any testing was done to ensure that this stuff is still reef safe if overheated. I know that the potting material used in many commercial aquarium heaters is very toxic if over heated. It isn't a deal breaker for me if it is, but it is a huge selling point for me if it isn't. This is a major reason tanks can be wiped if a glass heater overheats and explodes. It's the main reason I will never use a glass heater.

 

[MrWheelock]

I need to find this video and watch it. I suspected it would be filled with something to improve heat transfer and lock the heating element in place.
I would like to know if any testing was done to ensure that this stuff is still reef safe if overheated. I know that the potting material used in many commercial aquarium heaters is very toxic if over heated. It isn't a deal breaker for me if it is, but it is a huge selling point for me if it isn't. This is a major reason tanks can be wiped if a glass heater overheats and explodes. It's the main reason I will never use a glass heater.

Here's the vid BRS did. They discuss the heater around 6:25 Vid

 

[Brew12]

In case someone is wondering how the change in voltage would change the design of the heaters, it is pretty simple. Fortunately, when going from 220V to 120V the only thing you need to do is use a heating element rated twice as high. A 240V, 600 watt heater will be a 300 watt heater at 120V. A 200 watt, 240V heater becomes a 100 watt, 120V heater.

It's much easier to drop in voltage than to go up. If you take a 200 watt, 120V heater and try to use it at 240V it will put out 400 watts until it burns itself out because it is likely not designed for the higher power.

 

[infinite0180]

I just got one of these heaters. Havent put it in the tank yet. Im going to run it off my apex and was deciding if i should get a controller with it. I like the idea of cutting my return pump if temps get too high. Might just do that instead and call it a day... thanks for the info @Brew12

 

[120reefkeeper]

@randyBRS

At Rap Chicago Randy went into great detail with me on the construction of these heaters. I don’t remember everything he said was inside but I do remember I was quite impressed with the level of redundancy.

 

[infinite0180]

@Brew12 using your method does your return “lock off” once 82 is hit or does it turn back on once it drops below 82 and then off again at 82?
See what im saying? Should i have my apex latch it to the off position?