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Yes, light definitely plays a role, it's talked about in the thread and it's also been my experience that the more light an area gets the quicker the bryopsis dies.I wonder if this med targets through light somehow. All my bryopsis under light is gone… but the patches in the shade are fully untouched. Still looks too healthy. Quite odd. Im thinking of increasing the dose and see if it needs to be stronger to take out this crap
Definitely agree, i guess I didn’t thoroughly read. i saw that light helps kill it quicker but as time goes on its almost as if the meds stunted the growth and allow my cuc and urchins to slowly run over the dark areas as time goes by. Im at almost triple the dose at this point 3 weeks in and so far corals are happy and my rock has never looked so clean lolYes, light definitely plays a role, it's talked about in the thread and it's also been my experience that the more light an area gets the quicker the bryopsis dies.
I'm in the middle of Flux tx for GHS and/or Biopsis. Did you scub your rocks througout the treatment or did you let die and come off the rocks naturally?Sharing my experience with fluconazole and bryopsis. We've had a few fatalities and I couldn't say for sure that it is related to the fluconazole but prior to fluconazole, they had been fine for many months. I used human grade fluconazole that was purchased from the pharmacy.
Almost 15 days into fluconazole treatmentt-bryopsis is all gone. GHA, still here but some are easier to suction out then others. We lost a lineatus wrasse several days into treatment, it was out of no blue, previously eating well and fat.
Since then, we've also lost a big hammer and a frogspawn is looking very bad. However, lots of other hammers and torches are unaffected. I would say all other corals are fine (zoas, SPS, acans, lobos, scolys) and inverts are fine, fish are fine.
Parameters are all within the normal range.
Do you have SPS in your tank I’ve heard that SPS struggles with fluconazoleDefinitely agree, i guess I didn’t thoroughly read. i saw that light helps kill it quicker but as time goes on its almost as if the meds stunted the growth and allow my cuc and urchins to slowly run over the dark areas as time goes by. Im at almost triple the dose at this point 3 weeks in and so far corals are happy and my rock has never looked so clean lol
I have one monti and its thriving, and im not worried to try other stuff to be fair. Now this is just me speaking but if you have a ton of whatever algae youre trying to kill and are worried about your sps i feel like the phosphate and nitrite level increase is what would hurt them. So theoretically you could do a 50% water change unless u have a massive tank thats up to you. Half way through the treatment or multiple times during and just redose the reef flux that you water changed out. So u take out half the meds, add it back while also cutting the phos and nitrite in the water by half.Do you have SPS in your tank I’ve heard that SPS struggles with fluconazole
Yes. A very clear connection to photosynthesis as part of the metabolic process needed to kill. Adjust accordingly. This was covered a few thousand posts ago.I wonder if this med targets through light somehow. All my bryopsis under light is gone… but the patches in the shade are fully untouched. Still looks too healthy. Quite odd. Im thinking of increasing the dose and see if it needs to be stronger to take out this crap
As long as your nitrate and phosphates are at 0 it will come back .Has anyone had any luck actually eradicating bryopsis with fluconazale?
I did it for like a month, got rid of 95% of it, came back after water change and carbon.
Couple week break, and...
Just did it again for like 2 months, no visible bryopsis left, put carbon in a week ago, already coming back.
Phosphate and nitrate both basically 0.
All fine... It seems.Jesus, instead of using 9mg/l, I used 18mg/l due to a mistake. It has past 15 days, algae gone, animals are fine. But do I have a problem? Help please. Thanks.