You need a 1/8” port connector, SS-201-PC
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Awesome! Thanks!You need a 1/8” port connector, SS-201-PC
This is what you need. Ebay #175521967209Hey all, I’m in the process of gathering all my fittings for my build and am basing mine off of the regulator in the image below. Only thing is I’m not sure which fitting to use to connect the metering valve to the elbow? In swagelok part #s it looks like I need a fitting of some sort to connect SS-200-2-2 (the elbow) to SS-SS2-A (the metering valve). Could someone point me in the right direction?
I picked up this regulator from eBay, however I'm finding the CGA-320 threading doesn't want to screw into the body. Is it possible I picked up the wrong type of regulator? Or is there a different stem that would work? The stem that came with the regulator has a bit of a taper to the threads, and the connection point is obviously meant for a different style tank.
Nice!Just built this mini dual stage regulator. This thing is small but it’s a beast.
You should just need two needle valves and two bubble counters with the necessary piping tees and other fittings to make a manifold. Assuming you can accept both tanks having the same CO2 on/off schedule you would only need one solenoid valve. Otherwise, you would want two of those as well.
They make splitter valve manifolds with up to about 6 needle valves in a spider pattern. You can connect the tubing to the outlet. You can find them online. I use one to supply two of my freshwater tanks from a single regulator and solenoid and they work well but I keep my operating pressure closer to 15 psi. They might be difficult to control at 50 psi depending on how man bubbles you want. The needle valve is not as precise as a Swagelok needle valve, but they are a lot cheaper. That should be a very good regulator capable of turning down much lower than 50 psig if you need to. You do have to purchase separate bubble counters. I have used the Fluval units for this. They are easy because they can just be inserted into the tubing anywhere, although I built one into each of my DIY PVC Griggs reactors with a short vertical section of 1/2" clear PVC in the CO2 injection port that I like better because they do not have to be refilled with fluid. Obviously, this would not work with a diffuser and then I would probably just use the Fluval bubble counters but I much prefer a Griggs reactor over a diffuser as there is no maintenance on them. I have never used the metallic bubble counters that mount directly onto the piping.
The saltwater calcium reactors have a much lower bubble rate than a planted tank system, so you will see a lot of recommendations for very fine needle valves on this site that really ar
You should just need two needle valves and two bubble counters with the necessary piping tees and other fittings to make a manifold. Assuming you can accept both tanks having the same CO2 on/off schedule you would only need one solenoid valve. Otherwise, you would want two of those as well.
They make splitter valve manifolds with up to about 6 needle valves in a spider pattern. You can connect the tubing to the outlet. You can find them online. I use one to supply two of my freshwater tanks from a single regulator and solenoid and they work well but I keep my operating pressure closer to 15 psi. They might be difficult to control at 50 psi depending on how man bubbles you want. The needle valve is not as precise as a Swagelok needle valve, but they are a lot cheaper. That should be a very good regulator capable of turning down much lower than 50 psig if you need to. You do have to purchase separate bubble counters. I have used the Fluval units for this. They are easy because they can just be inserted into the tubing anywhere, although I built one into each of my DIY PVC Griggs reactors with a short vertical section of 1/2" clear PVC in the CO2 injection port that I like better because they do not have to be refilled with fluid. Obviously, this would not work with a diffuser and then I would probably just use the Fluval bubble counters but I much prefer a Griggs reactor over a diffuser as there is no maintenance on them. I have never used the metallic bubble counters that mount directly onto the piping.
The saltwater calcium reactors have a much lower bubble rate than a planted tank system, so you will see a lot of recommendations for very fine needle valves on this site that really are not necessary on a typical freshwatr tank.
Thanks my biggest issue with the retail models on the market is the quality and the control with the garbage valves they use on those systems the amount a person pays for an off the shelf "highend" product is just ridiculous. I'm just sick of dealing with crap labeled as top of the line. I want to set my bubble count and it not move while I'm sleeping and kill all of my livestock. I would really like something dependable every single time so I will spend the money for a great valve with quality adjustment. I'm hoping I can find a y section to build off of that if I go inline I will go with my tried and true ada beetle I set up on all of my display tanks. Not sure what part number or if anyone knew if that part even existed
I know this is an old thread, but would you happen to have a picture of your splitter setup and the fitting parts you used? Was thinking about building my own CO2 system to supply three freshwater tanks, similar to what you're doingYou should just need two needle valves and two bubble counters with the necessary piping tees and other fittings to make a manifold. Assuming you can accept both tanks having the same CO2 on/off schedule you would only need one solenoid valve. Otherwise, you would want two of those as well.
They make splitter valve manifolds with up to about 6 needle valves in a spider pattern. You can connect the tubing to the outlet. You can find them online. I use one to supply two of my freshwater tanks from a single regulator and solenoid and they work well but I keep my operating pressure closer to 15 psi. They might be difficult to control at 50 psi depending on how man bubbles you want. The needle valve is not as precise as a Swagelok needle valve, but they are a lot cheaper. That should be a very good regulator capable of turning down much lower than 50 psig if you need to. You do have to purchase separate bubble counters. I have used the Fluval units for this. They are easy because they can just be inserted into the tubing anywhere, although I built one into each of my DIY PVC Griggs reactors with a short vertical section of 1/2" clear PVC in the CO2 injection port that I like better because they do not have to be refilled with fluid. Obviously, this would not work with a diffuser and then I would probably just use the Fluval bubble counters but I much prefer a Griggs reactor over a diffuser as there is no maintenance on them. I have never used the metallic bubble counters that mount directly onto the piping.
The saltwater calcium reactors have a much lower bubble rate than a planted tank system, so you will see a lot of recommendations for very fine needle valves on this site that really are not necessary on a typical freshwater tank.
I know this is an old thread, but would you happen to have a picture of your splitter setup and the fitting parts you used? Was thinking about building my own CO2 system to supply three freshwater tanks, similar to what you're doing
This is the type of splitter I used. I just found it in a LFS. There are ones with fewer connections. I just wanted to have one that had a threaded inlet and not air line because of the pressure. I think it is 1/8" NPT.
The pictures are not great because it is in a congested area, but I just have a cheap beer type single stage regulator with a solenoid. It is an old system I bought in the early 90's. I just used brass piping and fittings from Home Depot or Lowes to fit it up with an elbow to turn it horizontally. I have Fluval bubble counters and dual check valves in the air line coming from the valve manifold, but I really use the clear PVC bubble counters I built into the injection port of my DYI Griggs PVC CO2 reactor. I really like the Griggs I made from 3" PVC and can provide details if you are interested.
I have found that these type of valve manifolds give adequate control for FW planted tanks becasue the bulb rates are pretty high. I can easily adjust these to 1 bubble every second with 15 psig supply pressure which is about as low as I can go with my cheap single stage regulator.
This is very helpful, I appreciate it! I'm weighting the pros and cons of a CO2 system with a single solenoid and three individual needle valves vs a splitter. I was worried about the control you have with the splitter but from your experience it seems like this is a non issue. The splitter is also 1/4 of the cost of the three needle valves. Would love to see your Griggs system. I'm very new to all of this but have really enjoyed researching and learningThis is the type of splitter I used. I just found it in a LFS. There are ones with fewer connections. I just wanted to have one that had a threaded inlet and not air line because of the pressure. I think it is 1/8" NPT.
The pictures are not great because it is in a congested area, but I just have a cheap beer type single stage regulator with a solenoid. It is an old system I bought in the early 90's. I just used brass piping and fittings from Home Depot or Lowes to fit it up with an elbow to turn it horizontally. I have Fluval bubble counters and dual check valves in the air line coming from the valve manifold, but I really use the clear PVC bubble counters I built into the injection port of my DYI Griggs PVC CO2 reactor. I really like the Griggs I made from 3" PVC and can provide details if you are interested.
I have found that these type of valve manifolds give adequate control for FW planted tanks becasue the bulb rates are pretty high. I can easily adjust these to 1 bubble every second with 15 psig supply pressure which is about as low as I can go with my cheap single stage regulator.