Can I say this green bubble tipped is clinically dead?

Zhugelaocunfu

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This is the first LPS I have ever bought, I don't know at that time so it is already bleached when I bought it.I wouldn't say my water is good but other LPS in my tanks grows OK. NH is 0.1 while others are 0, I have kept this GBT for almost a year and it still looks not very well (although the tip of some tentacles are still brownish), can I still save this poor guy?
IMG_0643.jpg
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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All of my parameters:
tank size: 45*45*45cm (96L), all in one system
1 year old tank, LPS only
NH3/4:0.1-0.15
NO2:0
NO3:0
PO4:0
salinity:1.024
light:A7 100w, not at full brightness (white 30%, red 15%, green 5%, blue 50%, deep blue 40% and purple 10% for 7 hrs per day)
flow: Jebao MOW-6W at constant 40%
main pump:a 2000L DC pump
I have a 100W cooler so temp would not exceed 27.5

If needed I can measure kh right now

the desc on the shop yes, it is GBT but I don't know if he fakes me.
 
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bradleym

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Most of this looks good, but for BTA & LPS, nitrates in the range of 5-20 are better for growth/recovery. Phosphates should not be high, but also should not be 0 in this case.

It is possible that all of zooxanthellae are gone since the anemone is so bleached. If so, you would need to transplant some from another, healthy BTA.
 

Rtaylor

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Brown tips would actually be good as it indicates there is zooxanthelle present. Your lighting is not adequate for the anemone (which is not large polyp stony…lps coral..)

other than being bleached it looks healthy, why on earth would you think it’s dead?
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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Brown tips would actually be good as it indicates there is zooxanthelle present. Your lighting is not adequate for the anemone (which is not large polyp stony…lps coral..)

other than being bleached it looks healthy, why on earth would you think it’s dead?
I know this poor boi isn't dead, but without zooxanthelle it can't produce food for itself,I am afraid it will eventually die.And I think my light should be enough for my tank (I except 1L water for 1W of light power), should I turn the brightness even higher? (I won't increase the light time as it goes pretty bad on my experience...algae bloom)
 
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Anemone_Fanatic

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Anemones aren't LPS. Get some more nutrients in the water, you'll want nitrates at around 10 for anemones and LPS. The old doctrine of "minimal nutrients always" doesn't stand anymore for anything other than Acropora, and even that's coming under question. While it's bleached, try feeding it with frozen food every few days.
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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I'll try to move it to low light area for a few days, and feed it every other day to see if it can recover
 

Lost in the Sauce

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I'll try to move it to low light area for a few days, and feed it every other day to see if it can recover
Don't attempt to move a stable nem.

That's a stress event it doesn't need, and may not bounce back from.
Anemones aren't LPS. Get some more nutrients in the water, you'll want nitrates at around 10 for anemones and LPS. The old doctrine of "minimal nutrients always" doesn't stand anymore for anything other than Acropora, and even that's coming under question. While it's bleached, try feeding it with frozen food every few days.
All correct.
Brown tips would actually be good as it indicates there is zooxanthelle present. Your lighting is not adequate for the anemone (which is not large polyp stony…lps coral..)

other than being bleached it looks healthy, why on earth would you think it’s dead?
Bingo.
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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Anemones aren't LPS. Get some more nutrients in the water, you'll want nitrates at around 10 for anemones and LPS. The old doctrine of "minimal nutrients always" doesn't stand anymore for anything other than Acropora, and even that's coming under question. While it's bleached, try feeding it with frozen food every few days.
How can I make my Nitrates goes higher without getting other things such as PO4 higher? Just feed much more than I currently do?Before this month,I am feeding corals 4ml of reef snow every week.Currently (starts from 2 weeks before) I was feeding my corals and this boi rotifers once every 2-3 day,I didn't feed much (one rotifer cube last 5-6 feeds) as it may screw my tank water,guess my algae and cleaning crew are really good at their job...
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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BTW, will anemone move only when it is healthy? This boi hasn't changed his home after staying in this pot for half a year.
 

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BTW, will anemone move only when it is healthy? This boi hasn't changed his home after staying in this pot for half a year.

Healthy anemones are able to move more freely to find a more suitable flow / lighting location. How is the feeding response? Sticky tentacles / active feeding response is a good sign.
 

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You could slooooowly dose a bit of NeoNitro to raise up the Nitrates. Test each day to see how it’s moving and go slow.
 

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Can also increase feeding the tank inhabitants. Depending what you feed that can add phosphates but since those are close to zero that may work as well
 
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Zhugelaocunfu

Zhugelaocunfu

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Healthy anemones are able to move more freely to find a more suitable flow / lighting location. How is the feeding response? Sticky tentacles / active feeding response is a good sign.
The tentacles are closed ,engulfed the cloud as soon as the rotifer are sprayed to it,after it reopened, no rotifer can be seen,trying living brine shrimp babies,may be I will buy a batch of mysis shrimp to try next week.I have no sized suitable food for it but I am certain it cannot eat reef snow well (dose 1 ml for it every week before)
 
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