Clownfish Problems

[10galtank]

I’m quite new to this saltwater game. This is my first tank, previously used for years with freshwater. I preformed an ultra-supervised fish-in cycle. I used the clownfish and damsel, then once finished, added a cleaner shrimp and green Duncan coral frag.

My clownfish has yet to eat and it’s been plus or minus two weeks. Sometimes he will look at the food, but turn away. I’ve tried to feed him frozen mysis, frozen brine, live brine, flakes, pellets, and have even used garlic extract. I can confirm the damsel is not bothering him since he doesn’t mind him— and all the damsel does is hide as well but he hides in the LR structure. All my clownfish does it sit in the bottom corner. He keeps opening and closing his mouth and rubbing his side on the substrate. He stays very far away from everything in the tank, including structure. When he does decide to swim, it’s very odd— almost like he’s blindly swimming— sometimes he’ll stare at the surface.

Everywhere I go, I see clownfish freely swimming as happy as could be so it’s very frustrating to see mine live an almost sad life.

Tank Setup:
10 gallon
Fluval cp1 powerhead (pointed at surface)

5w heater (78 F)
Canister filter with Biomedia + Charcoal
5lb live rock
5lb live sand
Small amount of gravel

Cycle Info:
Dosing of beneficial bacteria daily
Dosing of Seachem prime daily

General Maintenance:
Seachem stability daily
Seachem prime daily
Salinity check and adjustments if needed

Important:
-Ammonia is 0.05ppm but the Seachem prime detoxifies it for the fish.
-I also use distilled water, no tap water.
-I have paid copious amounts of time to supervising this clownfish, no signs of disease whatsoever. He pooped clear since he is not eating.
-The most he has ever done is chew on a flake or two, but spit them out.
-Water parameters are very acceptable, excluding the 0.05ppm ammonia from him not eating— I have tried my best after every “feed” to clean out the food he does not eat but let’s be realistic, I cannot catch every speck. Partly why I picked up the cleaner shrimp.

 

[10galtank]

Then you did not buy live rock and it should not have been called such. If it's dry, it is not live, it does not matter if it's new or was previously live. It is now dead. Some rock company muddled things when they released a product called "life rock" which supposedly has dormant bacteria. But it's also not true live rock.

Bottled cycling bacteria works well amd given how cheap it is, should always be used if you want to stock fish immediately. No reason to fish-in cycle without it anymore.

Thank you for the info. The sand however was very wet, so I’m confident it was “live”. The rock was damp, not wet like suggested. And yes, I’ve used copious amounts of bottled bacteria.

 

[Cell]

I do not think wet live sand is sufficient to skip cycle or maybe even seed. @brandon429 can correct me.

 

[Cell]

Stability is not nitrifying cycle starter bac.

 

[10galtank]

Stability does not work well as a cycling bacteria.

Not all Cycling Bacteria are created equal. Who's who, and what do they need?

(post 3 updated with procedure) Procedure Part 1 - Ammonia only: This - Part 1 - is meant to be pretty restrictive to clearly distinguish those sources with and without classic chemoautotrophic nitrifiers. Bacteria products that don't process ammonia under these conditions will have their...

www.reef2reef.com

I used a bottle of Microbe-lift nite out 2 previous. My apologies on not saying earlier.

 

[Cell]

I used a bottle of Microbe-lift nite out 2 previous.

Interesting, that's a new one to me. @taricha might want to test it

 

[10galtank]

Stability does not work well as a cycling bacteria.

Not all Cycling Bacteria are created equal. Who's who, and what do they need?

(post 3 updated with procedure) Procedure Part 1 - Ammonia only: This - Part 1 - is meant to be pretty restrictive to clearly distinguish those sources with and without classic chemoautotrophic nitrifiers. Bacteria products that don't process ammonia under these conditions will have their...

www.reef2reef.com

I used a bottle of Microbe-lift nite out 2 previous

Interesting, that's a new one to me. @taricha might want to test it

Supposedly a decent product. So many on the market.

 

[10galtank]

List all tank parameters including tank salinity. And what you used to test with .

I got my water tested at two lfs— all came back clear and up to spec for them. As for the readings in numbers, I cannot recall.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Thanks - I could view the video. the only thing I see of note is that the fish is breathing too fast. That can be a sign of gill disease or water quality issues. So - if you can get a second confirming test to rule out ammonia issues, that leaves the potential for it being a gill disease. The other clue I have is that you said it was "rubbing its side". That is called flashing and it is how fish scratch in a reaction to skin or gill flukes.

You could try dosing the tank with Prazipro two times, 8 days apart as a treatment against flukes.

That said, a little clown like this that hasn't eaten for up to two weeks is going to be in a pretty bad way.....sorry!

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

Normally, people wait to put in the fish. However, I used a method called the fish-in cycle to cycle my tank. The fish creates the ammonia, and I used the nitrifying bacteria to convert the nitrites to nitrates. I was very attentive and observant during this process to make sure fish were okay— and used the proper products to detoxify the ammonia during the cycle for my fish. Has me wondering, why would the damsel be fine when he’s been in the tank just as long? In the store, the clownfish was a little shy, but nothing far from a normal clown. He did in fact have a tank mate, but I read everywhere they can do fine by themselves.

This works in freshwater- not marine setting. Typically you want to add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride . Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
In your pic- do i see Epoxy coated aquarium gravel and plastic plants?
If so, it offers no advantage and plastic plants can provide cutting edges for injury and leach resins in sea water environment which is why they fade quickly.
In addition, you will have to monitor your ammonia level with a more reliable test kit other than badge as you are running very basic filtration with a power filter which offers mechanical filtration, leaving the tank with no source of chemical and biological capabilities.

 

[10galtank]

Thanks - I could view the video. the only thing I see of note is that the fish is breathing too fast. That can be a sign of gill disease or water quality issues. So - if you can get a second confirming test to rule out ammonia issues, that leaves the potential for it being a gill disease. The other clue I have is that you said it was "rubbing its side". That is called flashing and it is how fish scratch in a reaction to skin or gill flukes.

You could try dosing the tank with Prazipro two times, 8 days apart as a treatment against flukes.

That said, a little clown like this that hasn't eaten for up to two weeks is going to be in a pretty bad way.....sorry!

Jay

Thank you Jay, I will look further into that and pick up some meds after work.

 

[10galtank]

This works in freshwater- not marine setting. Typically you want to add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride . Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
In your pic- do i see Epoxy coated aquarium gravel and plastic plants?
If so, it offers no advantage and plastic plants can provide cutting edges for injury and leach resins in sea water environment which is why they fade quickly.
In addition, you will have to monitor your ammonia level with a more reliable test kit other than badge as you are running very basic filtration with a power filter which offers mechanical filtration, leaving the tank with no source of chemical and biological capabilities.

This works in freshwater- not marine setting. Typically you want to add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride . Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
In your pic- do i see Epoxy coated aquarium gravel and plastic plants?
If so, it offers no advantage and plastic plants can provide cutting edges for injury and leach resins in sea water environment which is why they fade quickly.
In addition, you will have to monitor your ammonia level with a more reliable test kit other than badge as you are running very basic filtration with a power filter which offers mechanical filtration, leaving the tank with no source of chemical and biological capabilities.

Thank you for the info. And yes, I’m using a small amount of gravel. The plastic plant is a place holder currently for more structure to cater to the fish— until I can buy more live plants. However, I am running a HOB canister filter that has 6 total trays containing charcoal and ceramic bio-balls.

 

[10galtank]

Thanks - I could view the video. the only thing I see of note is that the fish is breathing too fast. That can be a sign of gill disease or water quality issues. So - if you can get a second confirming test to rule out ammonia issues, that leaves the potential for it being a gill disease. The other clue I have is that you said it was "rubbing its side". That is called flashing and it is how fish scratch in a reaction to skin or gill flukes.

You could try dosing the tank with Prazipro two times, 8 days apart as a treatment against flukes.

That said, a little clown like this that hasn't eaten for up to two weeks is going to be in a pretty bad way.....sorry!

Jay

 

[10galtank]

This is the most he does when feeding. This is the second day he’s actually came out to genuinely inspect. I am using flakes in this bc they’re the only thing that gets his attention. But as you can see, he picks them up and spits them out.
Please note that my powerhead was turned OFF in this video. I turn it off for feeding purposes only!!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

This is the most he does when feeding. This is the second day he’s actually came out to genuinely inspect. I am using flakes in this bc they’re the only thing that gets his attention. But as you can see, he picks them up and spits them out.
Please note that my powerhead was turned OFF in this video. I turn it off for feeding purposes only!!

Weird - it shows some interest in food, but then doesn't follow through and actually eat anything. I can only suggest to try the Prazipro here. You might want to do a 1/3 water change prior to dosing that, just to help ensure the water quality is good.

Jay

 

[hauserk]

 

[hauserk]

I’m quite new to this saltwater game. This is my first tank, previously used for years with freshwater. I preformed an ultra-supervised fish-in cycle. I used the clownfish and damsel, then once finished, added a cleaner shrimp and green Duncan coral frag.

My clownfish has yet to eat and it’s been plus or minus two weeks. Sometimes he will look at the food, but turn away. I’ve tried to feed him frozen mysis, frozen brine, live brine, flakes, pellets, and have even used garlic extract. I can confirm the damsel is not bothering him since he doesn’t mind him— and all the damsel does is hide as well but he hides in the LR structure. All my clownfish does it sit in the bottom corner. He keeps opening and closing his mouth and rubbing his side on the substrate. He stays very far away from everything in the tank, including structure. When he does decide to swim, it’s very odd— almost like he’s blindly swimming— sometimes he’ll stare at the surface.

Everywhere I go, I see clownfish freely swimming as happy as could be so it’s very frustrating to see mine live an almost sad life.

Tank Setup:
10 gallon
Fluval cp1 powerhead (pointed at surface)

5w heater (78 F)
Canister filter with Biomedia + Charcoal
5lb live rock
5lb live sand
Small amount of gravel

Cycle Info:
Dosing of beneficial bacteria daily
Dosing of Seachem prime daily

General Maintenance:
Seachem stability daily
Seachem prime daily
Salinity check and adjustments if needed

Important:
-Ammonia is 0.05ppm but the Seachem prime detoxifies it for the fish.
-I also use distilled water, no tap water.
-I have paid copious amounts of time to supervising this clownfish, no signs of disease whatsoever. He pooped clear since he is not eating.
-The most he has ever done is chew on a flake or two, but spit them out.
-Water parameters are very acceptable, excluding the 0.05ppm ammonia from him not eating— I have tried my best after every “feed” to clean out the food he does not eat but let’s be realistic, I cannot catch every speck. Partly why I picked up the cleaner shrimp.

Following because I have a very similar situation going on with my reef nano and am curious how your guy is doing now. Any progress?
I am also new to this and have done set up exactly as set up by my local aquarium specialist. They probably think I am nuts because of how often I am in there seeking advice. I was also told to cycle with the fish (I have since read pros and cons of this) and am working through the cycling process. He is the only fish in the tank because I want to wait until the water is stabilized before I introduce another. I go for weekly water testing. My new clown has the same behaviors you described and I haven't seen him eat in almost three weeks. He must be eating some way, some how, but I don't see it. I am using both frozen and the small NLS Thera+ tiny pellets. I have tried soaking in garlic. There is adequate flow. The temperature is good. Levels last weekend were as follows - working on the nitrite:
Ph 8.0
KH/GH 7.03
Calcium 375
Magnesium 1138
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 1.2
Nitrate 0
Phosphate 0.0

I only use the marine water I purchase, clean the waste, etc. I introduced bacteria, and am using Stability and Prime. I am at a loss.
Any help would be appreciated.