Coral Problems

vetteguy53081

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Iron can cause many issues
I am assuming that you’re using API Test kit as zeros are not common unless you’re getting false readings
I would suggest you take a good water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test the water for you and verify your readings
Also make a small batch of new water for your tank and have that tested also and have them verify salinity which may be high if you’re getting false readings
 

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Yes corals need NO3/po4. As with all things this hobby too much or too little of something are both bad. What corals need more directly instead is amino acids for protein, good light, and stable water chemistry. From what you said you have the first two but if those readings are correct, ur alk is swinging way to much. General recommend daily alk swing is 1 dkh.

As for the nutrient management - check out the chart I made for a diff thread. Should give you a good idea of how to manage it bc its a very delicate balance. The "old school" thought of keeping no3/po4 as low as possible comes from an era when algae management is limited so they would rather starve the small impact of limiting zoox growth in order to control algae. However now the hobby has evolved so that you can maintain some levels of no3/po4 so that ur coral has all it needs, and use other methods to control algae.
Nutrient Cycle.PNG
 
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Joe Tony

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Iron can cause many issues
I am assuming that you’re using API Test kit as zeros are not common unless you’re getting false readings
I would suggest you take a good water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test the water for you and verify your readings
Also make a small batch of new water for your tank and have that tested also and have them verify salinity which may be high if you’re getting false readings
Yeah I do use the API stuff. I'll have the water sent to my local LFS, and see what they say about it. And I'll make sure to be careful with the iron. If I do another water change you think that would bring the iron levels back to where they need to be?
 
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Yes corals need NO3/po4. As with all things this hobby too much or too little of something are both bad. What corals need more directly instead is amino acids for protein, good light, and stable water chemistry. From what you said you have the first two but if those readings are correct, ur alk is swinging way to much. General recommend daily alk swing is 1 dkh.

As for the nutrient management - check out the chart I made for a diff thread. Should give you a good idea of how to manage it bc its a very delicate balance. The "old school" thought of keeping no3/po4 as low as possible comes from an era when algae management is limited so they would rather starve the small impact of limiting zoox growth in order to control algae. However now the hobby has evolved so that you can maintain some levels of no3/po4 so that ur coral has all it needs, and use other methods to control algae.
Nutrient Cycle.PNG

Well I'm trying to keep my system simply, as far as equipment is concerned. Things like protein skimmers, refugiums, gfos, etc, have never interested me, but I do keep up with water changes. Maybe the first thing I'll do is get a more accurate reading of my water parameters and then take it from there, but if it is the alkalinity drops that are the problem, that could be explained by all the coralline algae in the tank. Maybe it's time I get a tuxedo urchin to keep that under control.
 
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Joe Tony

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Iron can cause many issues
I am assuming that you’re using API Test kit as zeros are not common unless you’re getting false readings
I would suggest you take a good water sample to a trusted LFS and have them test the water for you and verify your readings
Also make a small batch of new water for your tank and have that tested also and have them verify salinity which may be high if you’re getting false readings
What would you recommend for an accurate test kit for this stuff (preferably on the cheaper side XD)
 

vetteguy53081

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What would you recommend for an accurate test kit for this stuff (preferably on the cheaper side XD)
Hanna best or salifert
 

vetteguy53081

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Yeah I do use the API stuff. I'll have the water sent to my local LFS, and see what they say about it. And I'll make sure to be careful with the iron. If I do another water change you think that would bring the iron levels back to where they need to be?
It’s should slightly
 

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I bought this LED relatively recently. I've considered a par meter in regards to getting a maxima clam, but I don't really see the point for beginner corals.
Do not change your light, it should serve you well for 5 years. You can have a clam when your tank matures but even clams need some nitrates and phosphates.
 

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Yeah but here's what's weird though. The duncan stayed open as I had it under the light at 100% at the bottom of the tank. Same with the mushroom. It was only until I did a water change that everything went wrong with them, and they haven't opened since.
When you do a water change make sure the ph, salinity and temp are the same as tank water.
 

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Can explain alk 8-12?

what does that mean? If it varies that much then that’s your problem
 
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Do not change your light, it should serve you well for 5 years. You can have a clam when your tank matures but even clams need some nitrates and phosphates.
I bought the light a few months ago. My point was that it's a brand new light and shouldn't show any sign of age.
 

iamacat

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When I tested it, it was about 8 ppm, but then I dosed to raise it a bit, so it's likely more at 9 or 10 now
So where is the 12 coming from. If your alk is changing and unpredictable that is your main issue
 
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Joe Tony

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So where is the 12 coming from. If your alk is changing and unpredictable that is your main issue
I just put up the range for it, it's hanging on the lower side, except when I've dosed enough to bring it up to 12. But I think I'm getting a better idea now of what the problem has been
 

iamacat

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I just put up the range for it, it's hanging on the lower side, except when I've dosed enough to bring it up to 12. But I think I'm getting a better idea now of what the problem has been
That shocks your corals and will certainly cause the issues you have had with corals. You alk needs to be consistent and not change more than 1 point. Get that consistent, 8.5 is a good goal that leaves room for error.
 
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Joe Tony

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I agree with DKMOO you need NO3 and PO4
Alright, so how do I add those nutrients. Should I get another fish for the tank? It's a 30 gallon tank, but there's probably only about 25 gallons of water. Currently have a yellow-tail damsel in there. Would adding a clownfish pair be okay?
 

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How often are you feeding your fish? You could increase nutrients, in other words feed more often. A lot of variables can be involved with this. How long has the tank been up and running? What are you using for filtering? Whatever you do, I would do it slowly. Balancing your parameters is especially hard in a small tank, water makes up for a lot of mistakes when it comes to adjustments. You could add another fish and feed more. You mentioned you dosed? I would think, unless you have a lot of coral, that water changes would be sufficient to replenish coral calcium needs. How are you determining your alkalinity and calcium needs? Have you noticed them falling between water changes and thus requiring supplementation?
 

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Alright, so how do I add those nutrients. Should I get another fish for the tank? It's a 30 gallon tank, but there's probably only about 25 gallons of water. Currently have a yellow-tail damsel in there. Would adding a clownfish pair be okay?
Yes, add some fish. Gradually ramp up your feeding in amount and frequency if possible.

As has been said, keeping ALK stable and in the 8ish range is better. Natural sea water is around 7. Most of the major coral vendors run around 8-9 but with >0 nutrients.

Don't sweat the iron. I don't have any and my corals don't mind. Sometimes it is needed for chaeto.
 
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Joe Tony

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Yes, add some fish. Gradually ramp up your feeding in amount and frequency if possible.

As has been said, keeping ALK stable and in the 8ish range is better. Natural sea water is around 7. Most of the major coral vendors run around 8-9 but with >0 nutrients.

Don't sweat the iron. I don't have any and my corals don't mind. Sometimes it is needed for chaeto.
Well the reason why I dose the iron is for my red grape caulerpa. I don't need it constantly growing to consume nutrients, but I'm afraid if I just stop giving it iron it'll die.
 

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