Cyano wont go away

[Clown93]

I have been dealing with this cyano for about 4 month's now I blow it off everyday and dose microbacter 7 feels useless as the very next day it comes right back added another circulation pump for more flow turned up my main pumps got blue leg hermits have been staying on weekly water changes and it still won't go away idk what else too do will adding a in tank refugium outcompete it and finally make it go away

 

[Meanmrmustard]

Might want to try UV at the proper flow rate. Maybe a black out for a couple days. I’ll let the professionals chime in.

 

[GFX360x]

What are your parameters? Nitrate, phosphate, etc... I just got done taking out my cyano which was horrible. I ended up using chemiclean, but I knew I had high nitrate and phosphate. If those are out of balance, chemiclean will take care of the problem, but it will come back.

 

[Clown93]

Might want to try UV at the proper flow rate. Maybe a black out for a couple days. I’ll let the professionals chime in.

How can I black out if I have corals tho?

 

[Clown93]

What are your parameters? Nitrate, phosphate, etc... I just got done taking out my cyano which was horrible. I ended up using chemiclean, but I knew I had high nitrate and phosphate. If those are out of balance, chemiclean will take care of the problem, but it will come back.

As of 4 day's ago nitrates are at 3.1 phosphate at 0.02 tried chemiclean twice about two weeks ago did absolutely nothing

 

[Patx]

As of 4 day's ago nitrates are at 3.1 phosphate at 0.02 tried chemiclean twice about two weeks ago did absolutely nothing

Pictures ?

 

[GFX360x]

As of 4 day's ago nitrates are at 3.1 phosphate at 0.02 tried chemiclean twice about two weeks ago did absolutely nothing

agree with Patx. Upload a picture of what you're trying to deal with. Did it improve and then come back or no change at all?

 

[Clown93]

agree with Patx. Upload a picture of what you're trying to deal with. Did it improve and then come back or no change at all?

No change at all

 

[Patx]

agree with Patx. Upload a picture of what you're trying to deal with. Did it improve and then come back or no change at all?

I think we have the same idea...

@Clown93
No picture ?

 

[Clown93]

No change at all

This is how it is now it's all over my rock and sand bed

 

[Biff0rz]

Chemiclean, works wonders.

 

[Clown93]

I think we have the same idea...

@Clown93
No picture ?

 

[Clown93]

Chemiclean, works wonders.

Tried it twice did absolutely nothing

 

[Patx]

If chemiclean do nothing... could be dino...
But in this pic i see cyano...

Something strange here...
You follow chemiclean instructions 100% ?

Microscope?

 

[Clown93]

If chemiclean do nothing... could be dino...
But in this pic i see cyano...

Something strange here...
You follow chemiclean instructions 100% ?

Microscope?

Yes I followed them 100% except the 20% water change part did more then 20% but I don't see how that could of affected it because the treatment did nothing even let it in my tank for the 48hrs so idk why it didn't work I'll try one more time tomorrow but I have heard some cases of it not working for some reefers

 

[Uncle99]

It doesn’t leave because your chemistry is not correct.
While nitrates are 3 ish and that’s on the low side but fine, the phosphate of 0.02ppm is too low, testing error could easily make that zero.
Zero nutrients invites the pest stuff like Cyano and Dino’s.

Just dose that over a week up to .1ppm and get it to hold steady.

You can then do a reset with chemi clean if you want be sure to add an airstone and skim through the treatment period as the chemical compromises oxygen in waters.

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is how it is now it's all over my rock and sand bed

This indeed cyano and I am not a fan of chemical treatments. First thing to do is to identify the cause. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. Often, when there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a holding bed for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what s the perception of not doing so which reduces the organic nutrients that feed cyano.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skimmate. When the protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for red slime .
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Clown93]

It doesn’t leave because your chemistry is not correct.
While nitrates are 3 ish and that’s on the low side but fine, the phosphate of 0.02ppm is too low, testing error could easily make that zero.
Zero nutrients invites the pest stuff like Cyano and Dino’s.

Just dose that over a week up to .1ppm and get it to hold steady.

You can then do a reset with chemi clean if you want be sure to add an airstone and skim through the treatment period as the chemical compromises oxygen in waters.

Thanks alot will get my phosphorus up and try too keep it steady how would I go about keeping it steady? and then will try chemi again

 

[Uncle99]

Thanks alot will get my phosphorus up and try too keep it steady how would I go about keeping it steady? and then will try chemi again

Dose up to .1ppm then stop but continue testing over following week. Continue to do the normal maintenance and feedings.
Look for trends, find the spot your tank seems to run at and if between .1 and .2ppm do nothing.
If it’s lowering week to week, dose it back to .1ppm.
If it’s increasing week to week mop up some by using a GFO which removes phosphate as it binds to the media.
What’s critical IMM is the test kit.
The only kit I know to measure phosphate accurately is the Hanna as the colour change is way to small to discern small amounts. Many kits don’t read past .25ppm, that’s not good enough because if it’s actually zero, pest stuff returns.
Nitrate and phosphate are a “must have” for all life even the ones you can’t see but that keep your sand white and rocks clean.
Feed them and they will multiple and outcompete the tank real estate for the bad guys.

 

[Clown93]

Dose up to .1ppm then stop but continue testing over following week. Continue to do the normal maintenance and feedings.
Look for trends, find the spot your tank seems to run at and if between .1 and .2ppm do nothing.
If it’s lowering week to week, dose it back to .1ppm.
If it’s increasing week to week mop up some by using a GFO which removes phosphate as it binds to the media.
What’s critical IMM is the test kit.
The only kit I know to measure phosphate accurately is the Hanna as the colour change is way to small to discern small amounts. Many kits don’t read past .25ppm, that’s not good enough because if it’s actually zero, pest stuff returns.
Nitrate and phosphate are a “must have” for all life even the ones you can’t see but that keep your sand white and rocks clean.
Feed them and they will multiple and outcompete the tank real estate for the bad guys.

Thanks alot for the help