Dino's ?

[fltt]

Need some help on identification of these Dino's.. Maybe Prorocentrum .

 

[Dburr1014]

@taricha will know

 

[taricha]

looks like large-cell amphidinium to me.

 

[DDenny]

looks like large-cell amphidinium to me.

That is what I was thinking just got done fighting these darn things. They are huge pain in the rear end.

 

[fltt]

That is what I was thinking just got done fighting these darn things. They are huge pain in the rear end.

What seemed to work ?

 

[fltt]

looks like large-cell amphidinium to me.

Thank you. I assume dose silicate and manual remove.

 

[taricha]

Thank you. I assume dose silicate and manual remove.

those would be my basics, yes.

 

[DDenny]

What are your phosphates and nitrates at? I didn’t do any water changes for 2 months got nitrates up around 25 and phosphates to .15-.2 and dosed waterglass everyday (well almost everyday) I had to travel for work a bit and those days didn’t get a dose. I also added pods. Take got really ugly for a bit but all of a sudden no Dino’s and a ton of diatoms. Now I’m just waiting for silicates to go away and the diatoms will follow. I tried to keep it simple as I could and wait it out.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you. I assume dose silicate and manual remove.

Agree on Amphidium and its not as many ask what your nitrate and phosphate is at as by the time we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[fltt]

What are your phosphates and nitrates at? I didn’t do any water changes for 2 months got nitrates up around 25 and phosphates to .15-.2 and dosed waterglass everyday (well almost everyday) I had to travel for work a bit and those days didn’t get a dose. I also added pods. Take got really ugly for a bit but all of a sudden no Dino’s and a ton of diatoms. Now I’m just waiting for silicates to go away and the diatoms will follow. I tried to keep it simple as I could and wait it out.

I will get my current parameters tonight. I ordered ocean magik from algea barn and picking up some sponge excel from a friend today. Hopefully it all gos well. I'm going to siphon the dinos into a 25 micron sock this week end.

 

[fltt]

Agree on Amphidium and its not as many ask what your nitrate and phosphate is at as by the time we see zero readings, automatically we assume this is the cause but by the time you see zero numbers, its because the dino has consumed the po4 and no3 and are multiplying and in turn many dose no3 and po4 to bring numbers up not realizing they are feeding these flagellates even more. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

Thank you, I will need all the advise I can get.
Yes I kinda figured my po4 and no3 will be bottomed out because of of the dinos consuming them. I will also add mb7 and turn my blue lights on 10% and white off. I will also post a picture later for reference.

 

[fltt]

@taricha will know

Thank you...

 

[fltt]

Tested last Night here are the results.
Salinity 35
Cal. 550
Mg 1230
Dkh 8.1
PH 8.12
No3 .1
P04 .01
Temp 77.9