Previous owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
yeahPrevious owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo
Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?yeah
I can tell that is an aqueon tank. You can use a dremel to knock off the barbs, and a pvc pipe will fit. But it will be WAY easier to get new ones. Get threaded ones, so you can take apart the plumbing in the future if need be.
You'll need a 1" and maybe a 3/4" bulkhead OR two 1". You'll have to measure the holes. Aqueon went from two different size holes to two of the same size, just the one bulkhead tapers down to 3/4 barb.
But he can only use bulkheads that fit the holes, depending on what size the holes are will dictate which ones he can use.You will if you want to go with schedule 40 PVC. Also - make sure you get good quality ones. Cheaper bulkheads won't screw down near tight enough before skipping threads. This isn't somewhere to get "budget minded". Ask me how I know?!
Im probably gonna get the home depot shc 40 than gets 80 valvesBut he can only use bulkheads that fit the holes, depending on what size the holes are will dictate which ones he can use.
a schedule 80 1" bulkhead uses the 48mm hole saw, where the abs one uses the 45mm hole saw. And a 3/4" schedule 80 MAY fit where a 1" abs was used (not sure if the flange will be wide enough), but again, it will depend on the size of the hole.
You can run a "herbie" style drain where the 3/4 drain is full siphon, the 1" is used as a standard durso pipe, and the returns up over the back of the tank. This will get you around 1300gph in ideal conditions.Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
A one inch drain I think will flow about 900gph. You're not going to need anywhere near that much.Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
schedule 40 pipe is fine. Spend the money on good gate valves, they are well worth it.Im probably gonna get the home depot shc 40 than gets 80 valves
so the 3 wiers on the tower do provide some flow into the tower, BUT not directly in those areas.Aqueeon.com says the overflow is 660 gph... could I increase that? In a perfect world i would prefer at least 1000 gph (10x turnover.) Also there are 3 whirs ( i think that's what they're called) top, middle, and bottom. if you need ill add photos but would that make my house flood if power went out since water would continue going down?
a 1" full siphon drain will flow about that.A one inch drain I think will flow about 900gph. You're not going to need anywhere near that much.
You can run a "herbie" style drain where the 3/4 drain is full siphon, the 1" is used as a standard durso pipe, and the returns up over the back of the tank. This will get you around 1300gph in ideal conditions.
You really only need 3-4x turnover per hour to be effective.
You can get a little more flow by upsizing the pipes around the bulkheads, i.e running 1.25in pipe to the 1" bulkhead and 1" pipe to the 3/4, and reducing the pipe right at the bulkhead. You may get some more flow, but we're only talking maybe 5-10% more, nothing that is gonna make a huge difference.
Should I use full siphon and boot the included durso?a 1" full siphon drain will flow about that.
The 660 that aqueon references is for the durso standpipe
F,or noise alone, I would. you will need to run the return over the back wall of the tank. Worth it imo.Should I use full siphon and boot the included durso?
F,or noise alone, I would. you will need to run the return over the back wall of the tank. Worth it imo.
Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warningThose are standard 1" and 3/4". The weirs you are talking about the middle and bottom only work when water is flowing through the top weir. Water flow through the top "pulls" water through the other two. My tanks like this have the dual 1" holes so I use one as a full siphon and the other as a emergency drain with my returns over the back. I would not recommend pushing the drains too much. You dont need 10x flow through your sump. The majority of your flow should be wave makers or power heads. most of this has been already said above but being at work really slows down my responses....lol.
I wouldnt bother. But if you are sure its not tempered you can. My 180 back is tempered as well as bottom and front. Over the back works the same and will save you time and money.Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warning
Also I wouldnt bother with the durso I'd leave it as an emergency drain, just open. I get a little worried about the 3/4 siphon drain getting a snail stuck in it could happen on a 1" also but less likely. But thats likely just me being a worry wart.Could I use the 3/4" as a full, 1" durso and drill for a return jet (loc line?) The back is NOT tempered, but the bottom has a tempered warning
I had this plumbing design and it utilizes flexible tubing for return and hose for pump to return. Unless leaking, you should not need new bulkheads. I believe brand is XaquaPrevious owner I think had soft tubing, I want pvc plumbing. The bulk heads seem to be reduced on the end of the hole than the size of the hole in the glass, I’ll add a photo