Dosing Lanthanum Chloride - A Personal Experience

jsker

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jsker

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So here is what I have come up with for a formula for dosing SeaKlean. I have been reading through a couple of other sites, and R2R.

.07 ml per 10 gallon of tank water volume diluted in 1 liter of RO/DI

.007 ml per 1 gallon of tank water volume diluted in 1 liter of RO/DI



Formula For weak dose



.005 x 50 gallons of tank water = .25 ml of SeaKlear (Phosphate remover/Lanthanum Chloride) for treatment of 50 gallons of water volume diluted in 1 liter of RO/DI



Formula For regular dose



.007 ml x 50 gallons of tank water = .35 ml of SeaKlear (Phosphate remover/Lanthanum Chloride) for treatment of 50 gallons of water volume diluted in 1 liter of RO/DI



Formula for strong dose



.01 ml x 50 gallons of tank water = .5 ml of SeaKlear (Phosphate remover/Lanthanum Chloride) for treatment of 50 gallons of water volume diluted in 1 liter of RO/DI

I am going to test run the formula this week to measure what the drop will be dosing .005 dosing amount in my system using a feeding bag dosed into a filter sock. I will test before and two days after and report back
 

siggy

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I make my own for .25 each;)
Oh-ya, I remember your thread or was it a video:confused: Time for a reboot on the subject along with some 10 micron materials;)
 

jsker

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Oh-ya, I remember your thread or was it a video:confused: Time for a reboot on the subject along with some 10 micron materials;)

Yes, when I did a search this thread comes up. Have you seen the video that is up on Youtube? That is a pretty good video, the only thing is another dead end of the amount to dose per gallon. On the second page of this thread

Doing more research on Lanthanum Chloride dosing and came across this thread.

I have dosed Blue Life and agent green in the past. I am looking to bring my phosphates down to .03 and keep them steady.

Like the OP stated and bottle of SeaKlear commercial looks like it will last a life time

I am figuring .08 ml per 10 gallon of water volume to cut the phosphates in half. My water volume is 80 gallons and the would be .64 of a milliliter.

I am going to do the feeding back dose the first time with a 1 liter of RO/DI with a slow drip of 8 hours before the filter socks. I will be doing a drip every 2 seconds to get my phosphate were then need to be. Then use my doser to dose a couple of milliliters a week into the the sump just before the filter socks.

Any input? @Dr. Reef

@jsker
I would start very slow. I would mix only .25oz in 1 gal of rodi water and slowly drip over time like you mentioned.
Seaklear is very strong and leaves small white particles that can hurt gills of fish.
I would use a filter sock minimum 10 micron to catch the particles, rather drip right into sock.
Once you have achieved the levels then using doser make a much weaker solution and drip accordingly.
In my 250gal I drip 1 drop of weak solution every 14 days to keep phos at 0.01-0.03

As I readdress this, @Dr. Reef had some good advise. Take it slow!!

I was also a little more aggressive with the amount to start with and backed that off. I would like to have a good formula for reefer to use if the want to mix there own for dosing.
 

Dimorb

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Hello everybody.

I'm having some trouble hope you can help.

I dose lanthanum chloride into my pipe work that goes down to a clarisea sk5000 roller filter after the filter the water goes into the sump - skimmer - filters etc..

I dilute my seaklear commercial 7 ml lanthanum chloride / 1 L of water. Dose it over 24 hours distributed on 150 occasions a' 3,6 ml/dose.

I get the wanted effect in lowering phospates but it also shows on ICP testing and the amount in the water is rising. 4 ug/l last time and 11 ug/l this time.

What do you recommend? Maybe the clarisea sk5000 isnt suitable for this?

I've also noticed an increase in other of other substances like aluminium, lithium and barium do you know if the lanthanum could "free" other substances?
 

mitch91175

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Hello everybody.

I'm having some trouble hope you can help.

I dose lanthanum chloride into my pipe work that goes down to a clarisea sk5000 roller filter after the filter the water goes into the sump - skimmer - filters etc..

I dilute my seaklear commercial 7 ml lanthanum chloride / 1 L of water. Dose it over 24 hours distributed on 150 occasions a' 3,6 ml/dose.

I get the wanted effect in lowering phospates but it also shows on ICP testing and the amount in the water is rising. 4 ug/l last time and 11 ug/l this time.

What do you recommend? Maybe the clarisea sk5000 isnt suitable for this?

I've also noticed an increase in other of other substances like aluminium, lithium and barium do you know if the lanthanum could "free" other substances?


I cannot answer your questions regarding the ICP test, etc. but using LC shouldn't be a long term solution. It like GFO and others really are meant to help reduce your levels so you can get a handle on the cause of the increased PO4.

Altering feeding habits/schedules (identifying foods high in PO4), stirring sandbed (or removing altogether - really helps with nutrient control), bigger water changes (if something is leeching PO4) are approaches that will help you not rely on GFO or LC and just use them when necessary.

The Clarisea will definitely likely allow LC to pass through. Better using a filter sock. The Clarisea is nice, but water will pass the filter easier than if going through a filter sock.

I've recently had to use LC a few doses when I added new rock to my display. Also slightly changed feeding habits. Less frozen and more nori. All my fish eat nori and PO4 level are where I can live with.
 
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Dimorb

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I cannot answer your questions regarding the ICP test, etc. but using LC shouldn't be a long term solution. It like GFO and others really are meant to help reduce your levels so you can get a handle on the cause of the increased PO4.

Altering feeding habits/schedules (identifying foods high in PO4), stirring sandbed (or removing altogether - really helps with nutrient control), bigger water changes (if something is leeching PO4) are approaches that will help you not rely on GFO or LC and just use them when necessary.

The Clarisea will definitely likely allow LC to pass through. Better using a filter sock. The Clarisea is nice, but water will pass the filter easier than if going through a filter sock.

I've recently had to use LC a few doses when I added new rock to my display. Also slightly changed feeding habits. Less frozen and more nori. All my fish eat nori and PO4 level are where I can live with.

Thanks for your respons.

I know why have high phospates. I feed alot more then most people 15 nori sheets/day as a minimum (after cut backs). I dont feed anything frozen and I've stopped with pellets for now.

I have alot of fish, big fishes and they need alot of food to prevent them from going into killing mode.

I've used around 150 kg rowaphos each year the last couple of years so LC was a test to eliminate costs and make maintenance easier.

My issue is that others use clarisea and I've been told that LA doesnt show on their ICP test.

Maybe they are fooling me or the use another kind of ICP.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I’m not sure that amount is a problem. Just detecting it doesn’t make it an issue.
Lanthanum does not cause other elements to be released, I don’t think, but if it is not pure it may add them.
 

Dimorb

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I’m not sure that amount is a problem. Just detecting it doesn’t make it an issue.
Lanthanum does not cause other elements to be released, I don’t think, but if it is not pure it may add them.

Thank you.

Do you have any other advice except waiting for ICP to see if the lanthanum is contaminated?

Is there something that can be done to trap lanthanum that is "free" in the water?

Shouldnt it be impossible to have free lanthanum when I also have phospates and high carbonates.. it should react shouldn't it?

Lanthanum that reacted with phospates and/or carbonates get stuck in the fleece so the free lanthanum must be going through the filter without reacting with neither phosphate or carbonate. Does that mean I need to increase or decrease the flow when dosing? Should I increase och dilute the solution?
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Thank you.

Do you have any other advice except waiting for ICP to see if the lanthanum is contaminated?

Is there something that can be done to trap lanthanum that is "free" in the water?

Shouldnt it be impossible to have free lanthanum when I also have phospates and high carbonates.. it should react shouldn't it?

Lanthanum that reacted with phospates and/or carbonates get stuck in the fleece so the free lanthanum must be going through the filter without reacting with neither phosphate or carbonate. Does that mean I need to increase or decrease the flow when dosing? Should I increase och dilute the solution?

There will always be some residual lanthanum and phosphate in any solution containing them, such as parts of the deep ocean where lanthanum is actually one of the main ways phosphate is bound/controlled (mist folks think lanthanum for phosphate binding is a pure human idea, but Mother Nature did it first).

That said, I’m not sure why yours seems higher than others (if it is, I’ve not seen many folks track it).
One possibility is that there were very fine particles of lanthanum phosphate/carbonate that remained suspended in your water when it was tested.
 

erroldejesus

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Hi from Puerto Rico. I can't get down my phosphates!! I mix 19 ml of Seaklear to 1 gallon of RO. I dose 1ml with a dosing pump to my 40 gal breeder. But the phosphates still in 0.23 with Hanna checker. What you think will be the problem.? Thanks

Errol
 

SeaDweller

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Hi from Puerto Rico. I can't get down my phosphates!! I mix 19 ml of Seaklear to 1 gallon of RO. I dose 1ml with a dosing pump to my 40 gal breeder. But the phosphates still in 0.23 with Hanna checker. What you think will be the problem.? Thanks

Errol
testing error or maybe you need to keep dosing until you get to your desired level, as PO4 may be leaching from your substrate and rocks, which is why you may be seeing it shoot up again. Do you dose and check after a few hours? If the levels fall and shoot up again, you may have to do several doses.

What level of PO4 did you begin with? LaCl works quickly, ime.
 

Nikki loveless

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Would this work ?

2E32B21A-3011-4D88-911F-4B428D510DF3.jpeg E1419F41-20C7-4792-BB79-EF963524C9EE.jpeg
 

Juan Andrés Botero R

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After using it, with a diluted continued dose, I notice that a marine Gammarus Amphipods population reduction or annihilation , not sure!, may be a coincidence!, has any one notice the same?.
 
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vanpire

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After using it, with a diluted continued dose, I notice that a marine Gammarus Amphipods population reduction or annihilation , not sure!, may be a coincidence!, has any one notice the same?.
I have seen similar results. A reduction in my amphipods, but not elimination. This might be coincidence but I also lost of nearly all if not all of my vermitid snails. I used to have thousands of them. This of course is a very good thing.
 

Ardeus

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I have dosed dilluted lanthanum chloride into a 5 micron sock many times and everytime my over 30 BTA'S look really bad afterwards for many weeks, they get really small and extremely bubbly. I don't notice any other reaction from fish, corals and clams. I also have a magnifica anemone that doesn't show any signs of being bothered.
 
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Ardeus

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I use Starver X from Lo-Chlor, it's a product for pools but it also has instructions for use with reef tanks. It lowers the phosphates immediately after it's finished dosing.
 

Dr. Reef

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Reaction is instant and precipitation happens which causes issues with many fish and corals.
Best advice I can give is to dilute it 3 to 4 times than instructions given.
For example I use seaklear phosphate for reef.
I mix barely a 1/4 teaspoon in a gal of rodi water and then dose accordingly.
If that is still strong use 1/8th or even less.
 

Juan Andrés Botero R

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I have dosed diluted lanthanum chloride into a 5 micron sock many times and everytime my over 30 BTA'S look really bad afterwards for many weeks, they get really small and extremely bubbly. I don't notice any other reaction from fish, corals and clams. I also have a magnifica anemone that doesn't show any signs of being bothered.
How many drops per every 10 Gallons are you dosing? what formula are you using? Lanthanum Chloride is a good alternative to lower phosphates!, it's grate!!! but must be dosed with a lot of care!, never drop more than 0.5ppm of phosphates per day. -> 1.7 drops will lower 0.1ppm of phosphates in 10 Gallons.
 
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