Evo 13.5 - Feeling overwhelmed...

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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Hi everyone,

I'm new to the hobby - getting the tank for Christmas. I've had freshwater tanks in the past but never saltwater. I AM PUMPED! but getting overwhelmed...

Was hoping the community could review what I have thus far and if I'm missing anything (even the smallest items)? I want to upgrade over time but not opposed to doing some "core" things right the first time...
  • Evo 13.5
  • Fluval m50 heater
  • Instant Ocean Epoxy sticks
  • CaribSea South Seas Base Rocks
  • Esty 3D printed Chamber 1 basket
  • Esty 3D printed Chamber 2 basket w/ plug
  • + Laser cut media pads also from Etsy seller
Need to buy:
  • MarinePure Gems 90g
  • Chemipure original 10oz
  • CaribSea Fiji pink 20lb
  • Salifert pH
  • Salifert Ammonia
  • Salifert Nitrate
  • Salifert Phosphate
  • Salifert KH/ALK
  • AQUATICLIFE Water Filtration System (50g, 4 stage)
  • Instant Ocean Sea Salt
  • Coralife Hydrometer
  • Fritz PRO - Ammonium Chloride - 500gm
Am I missing anything crucial?

THANK YOU!
 
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HankstankXXL750

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The RODI isn’t all that difficult depending on wether you rent or own. I had them in my rentals also.

I find Hanna checkers to be more accurate and easier to use. Takes the guess work out.

Probably want some bottled bacteria to establish your cycle. You can get pure ammonia from ace hardware, or buy a more expensive product from a lfs or online to raise your ammonia levels while establishing the cycle.
 

landlubber

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i'd suggest omitting the ph test kits. they may well tell you the ph but the reality is in your reef adjusting ph is not common practice and altering your levels is not worth the hassle.
I also recommend exercising your reefing passion by watching the 52 weeks of reefing series on YouTube by BRS (Bulk Reef Supply) great, in-depth info that will tell you what works and why.
Also.... Welcome to the hobby!
 
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dr_vinnie_boombatz

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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The RODI isn’t all that difficult depending on wether you rent or own. I had them in my rentals also.

I find Hanna checkers to be more accurate and easier to use. Takes the guess work out.

Probably want some bottled bacteria to establish your cycle. You can get pure ammonia from ace hardware, or buy a more expensive product from a lfs or online to raise your ammonia levels while establishing the cycle.
Thanks! I do like the Hanna checkers, I will definitely get those in the future but out of budget for now.

I think you're right on the RODI, medium to long-term I'll save money. I think I found some stuff and added to my list.
 
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dr_vinnie_boombatz

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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i'd suggest omitting the ph test kits. they may well tell you the ph but the reality is in your reef adjusting ph is not common practice and altering your levels is not worth the hassle.
I also recommend exercising your reefing passion by watching the 52 weeks of reefing series on YouTube by BRS (Bulk Reef Supply) great, in-depth info that will tell you what works and why.
Also.... Welcome to the hobby!
Will do, thank you!
 

PTXReef

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Hello!

+1 on the hannas and skipping the pH test...

I also currently have a 13.5 EVO as a quarantine tank so I would like to share the route that I went. I've noticed that the stock light that it comes with gets pretty hot... raising my temperature ~2 degrees F whenever it was on (so fluctuating my temp from 77-79F daily). The lid did wonders for lowering the evaporation rate but makes me wonder how effective gas exchange was.

I am currently running a HIPARGERO Aquaknight light (got it from Amazon for ~$70 so a more budget friendly option) and it grows most LPS, clams, and softies from my experience. I kept the stock lid so my helfrichi's wouldn't jump out. But ideally I would have gone with a lid from KrakenReef.

Excuse the mess but it works! ;)
1669087577852.png


I also like digital salinity pens over hydrometers just because they are very fast and easy to use. I like IceCap's and their customer service was quick and easy for me.

Also really recommend FritzTurboStart900. I always added my fish the same day and haven't lost anything yet...

Whatever you decide, good luck and there's a wealth of info here on R2R!

giphy.gif
 

GHOSTLY

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Hi everyone,

I'm new to the hobby - getting the tank for Christmas. I've had freshwater tanks in the past but never saltwater. I AM PUMPED! but getting overwhelmed...

Was hoping the community could review what I have thus far and if I'm missing anything (even the smallest items)? I want to upgrade over time but not opposed to doing some "core" things right the first time...
  • Evo 13.5
  • Fluval m50 heater
  • Instant Ocean Epoxy sticks
  • CaribSea South Seas Base Rocks
  • Esty 3D printed Chamber 1 basket
  • Esty 3D printed Chamber 2 basket w/ plug
  • + Laser cut media pads also from Etsy seller
Need to buy:
  • MarinePure Gems 90g
  • Chemipure original 10oz
  • CaribSea Fiji pink 20lb
  • Salifert pH
  • Salifert Ammonia
  • Salifert Nitrate
  • Salifert Phosphate
  • Salifert KH/ALK
  • AQUATICLIFE Water Filtration System (50g, 4 stage)
  • Instant Ocean Sea Salt
  • Coralife Hydrometer
  • Fritz PRO - Ammonium Chloride - 500gm
Am I missing anything crucial?

THANK YOU!
You don't need the Marine pure. I have them but honestly id just get live rock from your lfs. I found best results in it despite the price. I'd also get a refractometer for more accurate results. You can pick one up off Amazon. Good luck with reefing! Make sure you make a build thread
 

GHOSTLY

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Hello!

+1 on the hannas and skipping the pH test...

I also currently have a 13.5 EVO as a quarantine tank so I would like to share the route that I went. I've noticed that the stock light that it comes with gets pretty hot... raising my temperature ~2 degrees F whenever it was on (so fluctuating my temp from 77-79F daily). The lid did wonders for lowering the evaporation rate but makes me wonder how effective gas exchange was.

I am currently running a HIPARGERO Aquaknight light (got it from Amazon for ~$70 so a more budget friendly option) and it grows most LPS, clams, and softies from my experience. I kept the stock lid so my helfrichi's wouldn't jump out. But ideally I would have gone with a lid from KrakenReef.

Excuse the mess but it works! ;)
1669087577852.png


I also like digital salinity pens over hydrometers just because they are very fast and easy to use. I like IceCap's and their customer service was quick and easy for me.

Also really recommend FritzTurboStart900. I always added my fish the same day and haven't lost anything yet...

Whatever you decide, good luck and there's a wealth of info here on R2R!

giphy.gif
I have to ask what light is that? I really like it
 

PTXReef

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I have to ask what light is that? I really like it

Hipargero AquaKnight LED

I have four of these lights because I liked them so much.... I have two of the 1st generations and recently got two more of their newer 2nd generations. They have included the option to set a schedule on their newer lights!

Not sure why I can't link them here but you can search it up on Amazon.
 

welsher7

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You don't need the Marine pure. I have them but honestly id just get live rock from your lfs. I found best results in it despite the price. I'd also get a refractometer for more accurate results. You can pick one up off Amazon. Good luck with reefing! Make sure you make a build thread

I second this. There is no need to purchase additional bio media. The rock and sand will provide enough surface area for your bio needs.
 
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dr_vinnie_boombatz

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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Skip the corallife plastic floating hydrometer, and get yourself a decent refractometer with calibration fluid.

One tiny bubble on the plastic arm can give wildly different results.
Thanks everyone for your feedback, much appreciated! I returned the plastic floating hydrometer and went with dual Tropic Marin High Precision Hydrometers
 

RaymondL

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Tell me how those are! I really want one
Tropic Marin Hydrometer is the best tool I"ve used so far - easy and accurate and nothing to calibrate. I use it to calibrate my refractometer to get a reading and then use the hydrometer to get the 'real' reading.
 

RaymondL

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Thanks everyone for your feedback, much appreciated! I returned the plastic floating hydrometer and went with dual Tropic Marin High Precision Hydrometer
Great decision! Don't forget to get a 500ml graduated cylinder for it or you can float the hydrometer in a suitable container otherwise, but the cylinder makes it very easy.

If you're keeping the stock lid and light (nothing wrong with it if you keep soft corals and some easy LPS), you'll find the heat build up is very high. Get a fan like this one on Etsy, which can bring the temperature down by 3 - 5 deg C. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1270255350/fluval-evo-135-cooling-fan
 
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dr_vinnie_boombatz

dr_vinnie_boombatz

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Great decision! Don't forget to get a 500ml graduated cylinder for it or you can float the hydrometer in a suitable container otherwise, but the cylinder makes it very easy.

If you're keeping the stock lid and light (nothing wrong with it if you keep soft corals and some easy LPS), you'll find the heat build up is very high. Get a fan like this one on Etsy, which can bring the temperature down by 3 - 5 deg C. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1270255350/fluval-evo-135-cooling-fan
That's very cool! This would pair excellent with my Inkbird 308S. I'm very tempted but I hoping to get the Kraken lid next summer...

I used the power of Black Friday savings and got a Hygger Mini Wave Maker as well!
 

TangerineSpeedo

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While my 13.5 is highly modified, I can tell you right away IMHO things you will need or don't.
What you do need for a successful tank is light, flow and semi- stable parameters. You already got the wavemaker, and If the one you got can produce a random flow that's great. You need to set up an ATO that is crucial for stability on small tanks. For the light, ditch the light that comes with it, along with the lid. For the light you have several options, Amazon, PrimeHD (recommended), or a RedSea 50. I have a RedSea 50 on mine, it's fine, But I am running a PrimeHD on my 10g and it goes bonkers. You can always pick up a slightly used light for greater savings. If you are going to have fish just do a screen top, either $15 bucks at home depot or What I did, since I have a bunch of nano's, I bought the biggest RedSea DIY screen top and was able to make a bunch of tops with one kit. The nice thing about the RS tops are they have the zigzags to go around the lighting. As far filtration goes, the filter baskets are nice, but not necessary. In my 10g I actually use the foam that came with my evo. The porous foam grows both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria and you just rinse it out in your water change water once a week.
Other things with the flow is you can upgrade your pump to a Sicce .5 and maybe a @Vivid Creative Aquatics has a new flex random flow generator for the evo 13.5, I think they do.
Do not buy the Fluval protein skimmer for the evo. you will never be able to tune it. Unless to decide to use it solely for gas exchange, which is fine.
I really disagree with others about testing your PH. You will need to know where you stand. I am not saying that you need to chase it, but you will need to know if something is off or there is a huge PH difference between the water you have in your tank and the water your fish or inverts come in. While not as important as temperature and salinity, if it is too different, it can stress out whatever you are transferring.
One other thing since you are just starting out, look into getting RODI water from your LFS, 5g will last you two water changes and your evap for two weeks. It might be more economical now for the short run to do that. Since you are just doing small water changes, Maybe get a better salt. The non-sale difference between IO and Tropic Marin is 16 cents a gallon, and you are going to be doing less than 2g water changes a week.
The last thing I want to say is, if you have your heart set on a 13.5 that's great, but in reality you are going to be ditching pretty much everything except the tank itself. The price point for the evo is almost $200 bucks, where as for 1/2 the cost you can go with a IM15, which would be more versatile and you are not throwing out most of the stuff.
 

GHOSTLY

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While my 13.5 is highly modified, I can tell you right away IMHO things you will need or don't.
What you do need for a successful tank is light, flow and semi- stable parameters. You already got the wavemaker, and If the one you got can produce a random flow that's great. You need to set up an ATO that is crucial for stability on small tanks. For the light, ditch the light that comes with it, along with the lid. For the light you have several options, Amazon, PrimeHD (recommended), or a RedSea 50. I have a RedSea 50 on mine, it's fine, But I am running a PrimeHD on my 10g and it goes bonkers. You can always pick up a slightly used light for greater savings. If you are going to have fish just do a screen top, either $15 bucks at home depot or What I did, since I have a bunch of nano's, I bought the biggest RedSea DIY screen top and was able to make a bunch of tops with one kit. The nice thing about the RS tops are they have the zigzags to go around the lighting. As far filtration goes, the filter baskets are nice, but not necessary. In my 10g I actually use the foam that came with my evo. The porous foam grows both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria and you just rinse it out in your water change water once a week.
Other things with the flow is you can upgrade your pump to a Sicce .5 and maybe a @Vivid Creative Aquatics has a new flex random flow generator for the evo 13.5, I think they do.
Do not buy the Fluval protein skimmer for the evo. you will never be able to tune it. Unless to decide to use it solely for gas exchange, which is fine.
I really disagree with others about testing your PH. You will need to know where you stand. I am not saying that you need to chase it, but you will need to know if something is off or there is a huge PH difference between the water you have in your tank and the water your fish or inverts come in. While not as important as temperature and salinity, if it is too different, it can stress out whatever you are transferring.
One other thing since you are just starting out, look into getting RODI water from your LFS, 5g will last you two water changes and your evap for two weeks. It might be more economical now for the short run to do that. Since you are just doing small water changes, Maybe get a better salt. The non-sale difference between IO and Tropic Marin is 16 cents a gallon, and you are going to be doing less than 2g water changes a week.
The last thing I want to say is, if you have your heart set on a 13.5 that's great, but in reality you are going to be ditching pretty much everything except the tank itself. The price point for the evo is almost $200 bucks, where as for 1/2 the cost you can go with a IM15, which would be more versatile and you are not throwing out most of the stuff.
I'm thinking of getting an AI prime on my 15g cube. Think it'll be enough for higher par or do you think it'll be weak still
 

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