Feeling defeated one year in (reef tank)

[Bushnell]

Hey everyone! My family has been trying to keep a reef tank with clowns for about a year. These past 2 months, our Zoas have slowly closed up and our GSPs have gotten smaller and look “less full”. We just purchased testing kits to check phosphates, alkalinity, and calcium. We have maintained the others ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels!

The only change we made was 2 weeks ago when we lowered the light (settings below). We were following the 20k settings for the RS50 that came with the up until this point. 2 days ago we dipped the Zoas with an iodine solution.

Does anyone have any advice on what we could be doing wrong? We have read a lot of posts and it seems “less is more” and smaller changes are better than large ones.

Tank age: one year
Tank: Stock RS MAX Nano Peninsula with an ATO and with a power head in the back to help add more flow
Size: 26 gallons
Water changes: 5 gallons a week
Stock: 2 clownfish, 6 hermit crabs, 4 trochus snails, 5 turbo snails
Food: pellets once a day and reef frenzy and twice a week
Filtration: we use activated carbon in a small bag replace it every 2 months

Corals: (3) GSP, (4) waving hand anthelias, Kenya tree (with 3 little babies it dropped), Knobby Sea Rod Gorgonian, zoas, Neon Glowstick Cabbage Leather Soft Coral
Food: reef energy plus 3 times a week

Temp: 78 F
Salinity: 36
Phosphates: 0.28
Alkalinity: 8.4
Nitrate: 5


thank you all so much!

 

[tzabor10]

Why did you lower the light?
Have you sent for an ICP?
What salt do you use?
Do you dose?

 

[Bushnell]

Why did you lower the light?
Have you sent for an ICP?
What salt do you use?
Do you dose?

Lowered the light because doing some research some others mentioned the RS50 puts out high par readings and they had more success with lowering the blue lights

I have not!

Red Sea salt

I do not dose, my LFS mentioned that it wasn’t required for these corals. I am not opposed to it though!

Thank you!

 

[spielco]

Is your .28 phosphates a normal for you? Just seems quite high but also if you’ve always ran that might make a difference.

For my nano when I was running in the .1-.15 noticed my softies werent showing near the life and fullness.

Since I’ve been staying around .03-.08 I have seen my corals happier with out a doubt for me.

Just spitballing here with ya.

 

[Bushnell]

Is your .28 phosphates a normal for you? Just seems quite high but also if you’ve always ran that might make a difference.

For my nano when I was running in the .1-.15 noticed my softies werent showing near the life and fullness.

Since I’ve been staying around .03-.08 I have seen my corals happier with out a doubt for me.

Just spitballing here with ya.

Thank you for the help! To be honest this is my first time testing phosphates and alk, we just ordered the kit. I can re test them again and see. It would be nice if that was the case, it seems all of our softies are plummeting.

Is there a good way to lower phosphate? I’ve been reading about baking soda mixes. Thank you again!

 

[tzabor10]

You could try running GFO. Even just for a few hours a day or every now and then. It really lowers PO4

 

[TCK Corals]

The system definitely looks like it needs a few adjustments to get things thriving again.

First thing would be to send out an ICP to get a generalized look for any possibly contaminants and deficiencies.

Try to bring the phosphate levels to around 0.10-0.12.

I would also skip the coral foods/aminos for now as there seems to be enough nutrient present in the system already.

A larger water change could also help dilute and “reset” things as well as replenish anything that’s deficient.

Your LFS is correct in that those corals dosing demands are far less than a full blown SPS reef, but you still want to make sure the corals (and beneficial algae etc) have what they need to thrive. The activated carbon may be stripping the water over time in a greater capacity than the input from water changes and foods.

Also make sure salinity is spot on. Refractometers and hydrometers probes etc can drift rather quickly

 

[spielco]

Thank you for the help! To be honest this is my first time testing phosphates and alk, we just ordered the kit. I can re test them again and see. It would be nice if that was the case, it seems all of our softies are plummeting.

Is there a good way to lower phosphate? I’ve been reading about baking soda mixes. Thank you again!

Thank you for the help! To be honest this is my first time testing phosphates and alk, we just ordered the kit. I can re test them again and see. It would be nice if that was the case, it seems all of our softies are plummeting.

Is there a good way to lower phosphate? I’ve been reading about baking soda mixes. Thank you again!

When I was struggling with my phosphates I found I was well over feeding. The thing I’ve been seeing is phosphates are normally caused by us lol I was feeding my corals way too much and with the wrong products. For me it was reef roids. My nano couldn’t keep up with it and I was utilizing it to often.

I was doing my standard weekly water changes like you. Added a protein skimmer and backed way off on feeding and researched and found another food benepets that I now use.

For my set up I was using chemipure blue. I swapped out for chemipure elite with gfo to help out.
Whether this is all the right way…. I’m not positive. But I do know with in that time period I was able to get it under control quickly.

 

[tbrown]

Have your nitrates levels been going down or are they fairly consistent at 5?

Softies usually like "dirty" water so they do need nutrients as a food source.

It's unlikely that the lights are the issue since the settings were the same until after the corals started getting irritated?

What brand carbon do you use? Did you recently switch brands by any chance?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I’m thinking the light is insufficient as the main issue. The colour of the rocks and nothing on the sand after one year is a giveaway of lack of light.

 

[Bushnell]

Thanks again for helping

I do have a tub of GFO that i have kept on hand but it’s really powdery. Would I put it in a fine mesh bag in the return chamber where I normally keep activated charcoal?

 

[JohnTheReefer]

I recommend renting a PAR meter to measure light levels! It is the only way to know how much light your corals are getting.

Once those are dialed in I recommend making sure you have adequate flow.

Some type of phosphate absorbing media can work in the short term as mentioned. It is recommended to try and not bottom out any nutrient levels while trying to lower them.

Dosing can be beneficial and does not have to be complicated. All for Reef is a great all-in-one solution. It is what I use for my softies and has made a notable difference.

 

[liddojunior]

Have you checked to see if the clowns are other the corals?

Your tank looks nice, surprised no corralline growth even with a snail having some. Can scrape bit of it to get it into the water.

But your lights might be too low.

I’m also surprised how many snails you have! 1 turbo per 10-20 gallons is the ideal amount so they don’t starve to death.

I don’t think need to use GFO. Your phosphates aren’t high, you’ll just do more harm draining all the phosphates.

Could be low flow or low light.

Can use a poly filter pad to cleanup metal contaminates.

 

[Bushnell]

Have your nitrates levels been going down or are they fairly consistent at 5?

Softies usually like "dirty" water so they do need nutrients as a food source.

It's unlikely that the lights are the issue since the settings were the same until after the corals started getting irritated?

What brand carbon do you use? Did you recently switch brands by any chance?

I do a weekly 20% WC and suck up as much snail/fish feces as much as possible

I have tested my nitrates right before and they are usually between 5 and 10

I use the aquatic experts premium granular activated carbon

Thank you!

 

[UMALUM]

Personally I think your nitrate is low and the elevated phosphate really shouldn't affect your current coral. I wouldn't start chasing phosphate.

 

[Bushnell]

I’m thinking the light is insufficient as the main issue. The colour of the rocks and nothing on the sand after one year is a giveaway of lack of light.

I just changed the light settings recently. Maybe a par reader might be the play to know for sure. Thank you!

 

[Bushnell]

Have you checked to see if the clowns are other the corals?

Your tank looks nice, surprised no corralline growth even with a snail having some. Can scrape bit of it to get it into the water.

But your lights might be too low.

I’m also surprised how many snails you have! 1 turbo per 10-20 gallons is the ideal amount so they don’t starve to death.

I don’t think need to use GFO. Your phosphates aren’t high, you’ll just do more harm draining all the phosphates.

Could be low flow or low light.

Can use a poly filter pad to cleanup metal contaminates.

Yeah I think we have a lot of snails too. Our rocks were looking gross and they cleaned them up shortly after getting them - they were like magic. Maybe I can donate some to my LFS so they don’t starve!

I do have some poly pads that cut nicely for the rear sump intake, I’ll start adding one to help clean it out and check - thank you!

 

[Bushnell]

I recommend renting a PAR meter to measure light levels! It is the only way to know how much light your corals are getting.

Once those are dialed in I recommend making sure you have adequate flow.

Some type of phosphate absorbing media can work in the short term as mentioned. It is recommended to try and not bottom out any nutrient levels while trying to lower them.

Dosing can be beneficial and does not have to be complicated. All for Reef is a great all-in-one solution. It is what I use for my softies and has made a notable difference.

Thank you very much. I’m going to look into all for reef and how to rent a par reader. Thanks!

 

[joemcshe]

Hey everyone! My family has been trying to keep a reef tank with clowns for about a year. These past 2 months, our Zoas have slowly closed up and our GSPs have gotten smaller and look “less full”. We just purchased testing kits to check phosphates, alkalinity, and calcium. We have maintained the others ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels!

The only change we made was 2 weeks ago when we lowered the light (settings below). We were following the 20k settings for the RS50 that came with the up until this point. 2 days ago we dipped the Zoas with an iodine solution.

Does anyone have any advice on what we could be doing wrong? We have read a lot of posts and it seems “less is more” and smaller changes are better than large ones.

Tank age: one year
Tank: Stock RS MAX Nano Peninsula with an ATO and with a power head in the back to help add more flow
Size: 26 gallons
Water changes: 5 gallons a week
Stock: 2 clownfish, 6 hermit crabs, 4 trochus snails, 5 turbo snails
Food: pellets once a day and reef frenzy and twice a week
Filtration: we use activated carbon in a small bag replace it every 2 months

Corals: (3) GSP, (4) waving hand anthelias, Kenya tree (with 3 little babies it dropped), Knobby Sea Rod Gorgonian, zoas, Neon Glowstick Cabbage Leather Soft Coral
Food: reef energy plus 3 times a week

Temp: 78 F
Salinity: 36
Phosphates: 0.28
Alkalinity: 8.4
Nitrate: 5


thank you all so much!

 

[TCK Corals]

The phosphate levels themselves may not be worth chasing, but it’s a lot of “food”inputs in relation to how many fish/corals are in the system… that will later turn into waste or could fuel pathogenic bacteria etc. Definitely cutting back on the foods and verifying adequate lighting as well as ruling out contaminants via ICP should help map out the best course of further action