Feeling defeated one year in (reef tank)

[joemcshe]

In my opinion Phosphate is too high, I like to be under .10.
Nitrate is fine although could be a little higher.

Start dosing microbacter bacteria, need to establish a bigger bacteria population, include copepods into your filter floss pads if you can.

Goodluck

 

[joemcshe]

Once the bacteria establishes itself the rocks will turn from that greenish color to a regular grey.
Give it a good amount of time (1-3 months) and introduce more diversity. Of all types. Small snails, feather dusters, worms. Anything is good when trying to develop the maturity.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey everyone! My family has been trying to keep a reef tank with clowns for about a year. These past 2 months, our Zoas have slowly closed up and our GSPs have gotten smaller and look “less full”. We just purchased testing kits to check phosphates, alkalinity, and calcium. We have maintained the others ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels!

The only change we made was 2 weeks ago when we lowered the light (settings below). We were following the 20k settings for the RS50 that came with the up until this point. 2 days ago we dipped the Zoas with an iodine solution.

Does anyone have any advice on what we could be doing wrong? We have read a lot of posts and it seems “less is more” and smaller changes are better than large ones.

Tank age: one year
Tank: Stock RS MAX Nano Peninsula with an ATO and with a power head in the back to help add more flow
Size: 26 gallons
Water changes: 5 gallons a week
Stock: 2 clownfish, 6 hermit crabs, 4 trochus snails, 5 turbo snails
Food: pellets once a day and reef frenzy and twice a week
Filtration: we use activated carbon in a small bag replace it every 2 months

Corals: (3) GSP, (4) waving hand anthelias, Kenya tree (with 3 little babies it dropped), Knobby Sea Rod Gorgonian, zoas, Neon Glowstick Cabbage Leather Soft Coral
Food: reef energy plus 3 times a week

Temp: 78 F
Salinity: 36
Phosphates: 0.28
Alkalinity: 8.4
Nitrate: 5


thank you all so much!

Phos is elevated and may be upsetting corals. Recommended is (.06 - .1)
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
How are you testing water ?
Light appears to be bright white - what light are you using?

At one year of age, I would recommend getting and sending in an ICP kit for testing to get a full analysis of your water/readings.

 

[Bushnell]

Phos is elevated and may be upsetting corals. Recommended is (.06 - .1)
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
How are you testing water ?
Light appears to be bright white - what light are you using?

At one year of age, I would recommend getting and sending in an ICP kit for testing to get a full analysis of your water/readings.

Using RODI made from the 4 stage kit from BRS (we are on city water too)

For pH, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrates using the API master kit. I test nitrates once a week the day after my 20% WC

I just bought the Hanna kit for Phosphate, Alkalinity, and Calcium

The light I cranked up the whites for a picture was all, then returned them back down, but it’s the Red Sea LED50 that came with the Nano Penninsula (26 gallon)

Thank you!

 

[Bushnell]

Once the bacteria establishes itself the rocks will turn from that greenish color to a regular grey.
Give it a good amount of time (1-3 months) and introduce more diversity. Of all types. Small snails, feather dusters, worms. Anything is good when trying to develop the maturity.

Thank you very much! I’m didn’t know that about the rock!

 

[liddojunior]

Yeah I think we have a lot of snails too. Our rocks were looking gross and they cleaned them up shortly after getting them - they were like magic. Maybe I can donate some to my LFS so they don’t starve!

I do have some poly pads that cut nicely for the rear sump intake, I’ll start adding one to help clean it out and check - thank you!

The poly filter pads I’m recommending is the name of a specific product. It helped when I had some rust leaking in my tank.

These are the ones I’m suggesting

Poly Filter Floss Pad 4 X 8" Polyfilter - Bio Marine

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

 

[vetteguy53081]

Using RODI made from the 4 stage kit from BRS (we are on city water too)

For pH, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrates using the API master kit. I test nitrates once a week the day after my 20% WC

I just bought the Hanna kit for Phosphate, Alkalinity, and Calcium

The light I cranked up the whites for a picture was all, then returned them back down, but it’s the that came with the Nano Penninsula (26 gallon)

Thank you!

50wt light may be insufficient for many corals.
I understand you are using Tap water as well as RODI ?
Disregard Nitrite reading which is freshwater specific, One reason I dont trust API, but I encourage you to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at

 

[Bushnell]

The poly filter pads I’m recommending is the name of a specific product. It helped when I had some rust leaking in my tank.

These are the ones I’m suggesting

Poly Filter Floss Pad 4 X 8" Polyfilter - Bio Marine

Shop The Best Saltwater Aquarium Equipment & Supplies at Saltwater Aquarium. We Carry Everything you will Need for your Fish Tank.

www.saltwateraquarium.com

I have some of these on hand! Thank you so much

 

[Pod_01]

Just few suggestions, I would change the lights spectrum to 14k or 15k and keep the intensity at 60%.

As suggested ICP can help to identify any deficiencies or surplus. But you can also do 3 25% (or 4 , 20%) water changes in a week and that will rebalance your water chemistry as well. The tank is 26 gal so not a problem and cheaper compared to ICP.
Also aim for salinity of 35, it works better.

I would not use GFO and honestly the phosphate is not your problem, skimmer can help I don’t think you are using one.

From my experience closed up corals GSP is a sign of Iodine deficiency. The mentioned water change can help.

I would only feed pellets few times a day and cut out the other types of food.
Maybe consider some carbon dosing to feed bacteria and in turn your corals can feed on the bacteria.

Also you can increase the flow, softies do like flow:

Good luck,

 

[Bushnell]

This is what my Zoas look like right now with the lights on for 4 hours. It’s like dead skin just flowing. Is this colony lost?

 

[Pod_01]

This is what my Zoas look like right now with the lights on for 4 hours. It’s like dead skin just flowing. Is this colony lost?

The video doesn’t work for me.

In general I find Zoas temperamental. One week they are growing and next week they are all closed and melt away.
Some suspect Salinity instability, Alk instability, temperature swings and even Flouride deficiency.

From my experience if they are closed for extended period of time they melt away… I was not yet able to reverse this trend.
Also what is really interesting/ annoying is if you have two colonies in same tank but far apart. If one acts up the other copies the behaviour, like they have telepathy or something.
But when they grow and are happy Zoas are just stunning.

 

[exnisstech]

Not sure what your problem is OP but I doubt its the PO4 level. These shots from a moments ago. PO4 is 0.3 but NO3 is over 20.

EDIT: For years I couldn't keep easy coral like GSP, zoas, Kenya tree and xenia alive. I never figured out why I just stopped trying then tried again a few years later and they grow now. It was really strange because I could keep LPS and some easy sps.

 

[Bushnell]

Sorry that the upload didn’t work. My zoas were on the bottom left. They look like they’re falling apart.

 

[Bushnell]

Not sure what your problem is OP but I doubt its the PO4 level. These shots from a moments ago. PO4 is 0.3 but NO3 is over 20.

EDIT: For years I couldn't keep easy coral like GSP, zoas, Kenya tree and xenia alive. I never figured out why I just stopped trying then tried again a few years later and they grow now. It was really strange because I could keep LPS and some easy sps.

Your tank is beautiful thank for sharing!

 

[Bushnell]

The video doesn’t work for me.

In general I find Zoas temperamental. One week they are growing and next week they are all closed and melt away.
Some suspect Salinity instability, Alk instability, temperature swings and even Flouride deficiency.

From my experience if they are closed for extended period of time they melt away… I was not yet able to reverse this trend.
Also what is really interesting/ annoying is if you have two colonies in same tank but far apart. If one acts up the other copies the behaviour, like they have telepathy or something.
But when they grow and are happy Zoas are just stunning.

I think I was able to embed it, not sure why the upload didn’t work sorry about that. Thanks for the story - that makes me a little more optimistic

 

[Bushnell]

Just few suggestions, I would change the lights spectrum to 14k or 15k and keep the intensity at 60%.

As suggested ICP can help to identify any deficiencies or surplus. But you can also do 3 25% (or 4 , 20%) water changes in a week and that will rebalance your water chemistry as well. The tank is 26 gal so not a problem and cheaper compared to ICP.
Also aim for salinity of 35, it works better.

I would not use GFO and honestly the phosphate is not your problem, skimmer can help I don’t think you are using one.

From my experience closed up corals GSP is a sign of Iodine deficiency. The mentioned water change can help.

I would only feed pellets few times a day and cut out the other types of food.
Maybe consider some carbon dosing to feed bacteria and in turn your corals can feed on the bacteria.

Also you can increase the flow, softies do like flow:

Good luck,

Wow those are some amazing GSP! Thanks for sharing! I adjusted to 18k - mine only has 12k or 18k. Unless you think 12k on the lower side would be better?

 

[Naekuh]

Weekly 5gal water changes should not even require you to Dose, especially on a 26gal tank.
Your doing roughly a 25% water change every week. Dosing is pointless at this level.

I also think maybe something is up with your lights.
Your sand bed is too clean, unless you have a sleeper goby somewhere thats hiding.

I would also test your salinity again.. If you have another salinity tester, i would use that to cross compare with the two.
Usually when corals are shirveled up, but extended like that, i would look at salinity first.

Do you have a ATO? Automatic Top Off?

Also when your doing water changes, you are using RO/DI water correct?
Which Red Sea bucket are you using? The blue or purple?

Lastly, what is your Mg, and Ca?

 

[Bushnell]

Weekly 5gal water changes should not even require you to Dose, especially on a 26gal tank.
Your doing roughly a 25% water change every week. Dosing is pointless at this level.

I also think maybe something is up with your lights.
Your sand bed is too clean, unless you have a sleeper goby somewhere thats hiding.

I would also test your salinity again.. If you have another salinity tester, i would use that to cross compare with the two.
Usually when corals are shirveled up, but extended like that, i would look at salinity first.

Do you have a ATO? Automatic Top Off?

Also when your doing water changes, you are using RO/DI water correct?
Which Red Sea bucket are you using? The blue or purple?

Lastly, what is your Mg, and Ca?

Thank you very much! I think I fixed the video in my other post. I did have a sand sifting goby, but he died about 5 months ago

I do have a ATO system that uses RODI water only. I have the 4 stage system from BRS and only use RODI for ATO and mixing!

I have the blue Red Sea bucket of salt. I do two and a half cups for 5 gallons of RODI and then I let a power head mix it for 30 minutes before doing my WC

I have a imagitarium refractometer and a Hanna salinity checker
The Hanna checker says: 36.2
The refractometer says: 1.032

I don’t have a Mg test kit but I can check Ca today! Thank you!

 

[Naekuh]

The Hanna checker says: 36.2
The refractometer says: 1.032

i think your running salinity a tad bit high...

Can you slowly lower it over the next couple days?

Ideally you want about a 1.025-1.027.
Then see if there are any changes in your corals.

 

[saltcats]

1.032 is way too high for salinity, but I wouldn't necessarily trust that refractometer compared to the Hanna... Have you calibrated it? Do you have a calibration solution?

The measurement for the Hanna you'd be aiming for about 35ppt, so while it's still high it's not too far off. I'd think the Hanna is more accurate probably, but definitely get those verified. Maybe you can take a sample to your LFS and have them check salinity for you?