Food coloring

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Wasn't aware of that. Thinking back when I used to workout. Amino acids the building blocks of protein and assumed in the end would be no different than food high in proteins.
They would be. :)
 

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I must admit that I laughed out loud when I rest the title of this thread. Food coloring will dissipate almost immediately and prove inefficient at best to monitor flow.

I design my own filtration for fresh and salt water with flow as a major consideration. For new empty tanks I have found and freeze dried tubiflex worms work best. For established aquariums I just stir up the detritus to observe flow (usually to eliminate deltas spots, flow over corals, gyre ability to reverse flow left to right and to eliminate spots where stuff settles).
 
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Chalk, the formula for mixing up chalk as a flocking agent is on here somewhere?
 
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I must admit that I laughed out loud when I rest the title of this thread. Food coloring will dissipate almost immediately and prove inefficient at best to monitor flow.

I design my own filtration for fresh and salt water with flow as a major consideration. For new empty tanks I have found and freeze dried tubiflex worms work best. For established aquariums I just stir up the detritus to observe flow (usually to eliminate deltas spots, flow over corals, gyre ability to reverse flow left to right and to eliminate spots where stuff settles).
I've actually used food coloring and it doesn't immediately dissipate. Takes overnight and requires GAC. Seeking longer duration then waiting on detritus to settle. Not just testing flow but flow the first consideration.
 
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Chalk, the formula for mixing up chalk as a flocking agent is on here somewhere?
That's an option. I've used Seachem's flocculant Clarity and did provide some value but quickly dissipated if you have good amount of floss. Guessing same would occur with Coral Snow but have never used it so purely speculation.
 
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They would be. :)
If they are the building blocks of protein then how do they not contribute nutrients as they decompose? Not all will be taken up by the coral. Curious and guessing this has been tested but unable to find the science behind it as it pertains to our tanks. Just decomposition literature stating it decomposes to co2 and amine which contain nitrogen. Latter seems to me would contribute.

Just curious because I just realized adding nutrients not an issue for me. Had a senior moment although not exactly that senior. I'm going to just filter what is added and based on that AB+ the most logical. Oddly, had originally thought about AB+ a while ago but not knowing exactly what it does kind of dismissed it.
 

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If they are the building blocks of protein then how do they not contribute nutrients as they decompose? Not all will be taken up by the coral. Curious and guessing this has been tested but unable to find the science behind it as it pertains to our tanks. Just decomposition literature stating it decomposes to co2 and amine which contain nitrogen. Latter seems to me would contribute.

Just curious because I just realized adding nutrients not an issue for me. Had a senior moment although not exactly that senior. I'm going to just filter what is added and based on that AB+ the most logical. Oddly, had originally thought about AB+ a while ago but not knowing exactly what it does kind of dismissed it.

Amino acids will boost nitrate if given in sufficient quantity.
 

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Try an air stone to creat tiny bubbles. They'll eventually float up but it should still give you a pretty good ideal of the flow pattern. Plus, you don't have to worry about adding any extra unwanted stuff.
 
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How about a short (6") strip of thin plastic attached to a thin metal rod that you could just hold by hand and move around to see flow around rocks and throughout the whole tank?
That would work but I’d need another waving it around so I can stand back and observe
 

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Unless you have a bunch of cameras set up I would think that the small enclosure would mix to quickly for you to see flow patterns.
 
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Unless you have a bunch of cameras set up I would think that the small enclosure would mix to quickly for you to see flow patterns.
It’s worked for me in the past but absent of life. Few drops at a time. Can be adjusted for larger tanks. The goal is grasping if with life this being still an option.
 

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I've also considered fluorescein (hadn't thought about using it in tank to visualize mixing rates) for samples where I wanted something that's highly visible at tiny amounts. Under blue/UV lights, visible at like hundredths of a ppm, and biodegradable. It's sold as a leak detector for pools and ponds and such.
 
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I've also considered fluorescein (hadn't thought about using it in tank to visualize mixing rates) for samples where I wanted something that's highly visible at tiny amounts. Under blue/UV lights, visible at like hundredths of a ppm, and biodegradable. It's sold as a leak detector for pools and ponds and such.
Speaking of leak detection. Are you aware of what is used to test the flow of sponges. Guessing it must be safe. Seems to persist long enough to not just test flow but also how quickly filtration can churn the tank. The latter why I'm trying to avoid anything that quickly dissipates unless specifically filtered.
 

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Speaking of leak detection. Are you aware of what is used to test the flow of sponges.
I totally forgot i'd seen that done before.
 

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Try calcium carbonate. You can see the flow if you got a good eye (it will mix quickly) and then you can see your filtration work it out of the system and I don't think there are downsides to even consider
 
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