Full Restart of my 5yr old 240g SPS Tank

lakai

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I've been neglecting my tank and have had a few equipment failures over the last year that nuked some very large colonies. While I still have surviving corals, the dead skeletons take up too much space and are impossible to remove and my fish have very little room to swim. I also had a vermited snail problem that got out of hand so I am hoping to not introduce them into the tank again so that means new rock and new plumbing. I think its time for a full on reset hoping to take all the knowledge from when I started this hobby 6 years ago and make this process as streamlined as best as I can.

Here are some pics of my tank at its best.

nLd9UBG.jpg

ZOAPy0R.jpg


My plan of attack goes as follows:

- Move existing rock and fish into 150gal rubbermaid tank.
- Drain tank and sump, scrub everything and dry.
- Remove overflow to deep clean, discard plumbing.
- Redo all plumbing, Salvaging expensive gatevalves and such.
- Clean all pumps, wavemakers and equipment
- Redo Aquascape with brand new marco rock ( Not reusing old rock due to vermited snails)
- Fill tank up to top of aquascape with 20ppt saltwater crank the heat up to 85 degrees
- Leave small wavemaker on just to circulate the water a bit to keep heated.
- Dump in a bottle of bacteria over aquascape and dose with 3ppm ammonium chloride
- Monitor with Seneye until Ammonia is gone, Wait a 4 days until nitrates show, redose ammonium chloride to 2ppm and wait 2 more days.
- Fill up rest of the tank with 35ppt water and turn down heaters to 77F and leave the system run for a week

- introduce my fish starting with the small ones like damsels and dwarf angels then least aggressive to most aggressive (Powder blue Tang, Sohal Tang Black Storm Clowns last)
- Start dosing phosphate and Nitrates to try and avoid dinos. I had a huge dino problem for months and tried everything and nothing worked until I accidently overdosed phosphate until it was off the charts ( Talking 0.7ppb) and they went away within a few days. So I'm going to keep dosing to try and keep phosphate at 0.1 or higher until the rock soaks it in.

I won't be adding corals in until my rocks are a deep brown so it will be a fowlr for at least 6 months.

Is there anything I missed ? I would like some imput

Thanks in advance.
 

bradreef

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I cooked dry rock for 4 months in a rubbermaid before my newest tank seeded it. Fed phyto , pods. And food. I'm hoping to avoid the bottomed out phos and dinos.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I will subscribe to this thread, I collect seneye data on new cycles this is interesting for sure

In order to calibrate your seneye can you post a recent log showing nh3 avg daily ranges, it should be in the thousandths ppm nh3 on any reef tank post cycle, and if it’s not, the unit isn’t trim set.

In fact in that system your current ranges should be .001-.004 max nh3.

Merely being able to test your current ammonia levels to the predicted range without seeing anything but your stock levels and surface area in the tank is a big win for updated cycling science because all reef tanks run in the same range *when the meter is calibrated and trimmed correctly*


That current rate of running can be used to see how many days a new test load of ammonia comes down after adding bottle bac


Vermitids will for sure get in the new system like they did here. No chance of being vermitid free by starting with new rock, and in fact the uglies phase may compromise corals but if you’re determined to lose your current bio system and start over anyway, that new seneye data will be rare and very valuable.

The prediction is that any common bottle bac meant for cycling (not tank cleaning, don’t buy any brightwell brand of bac buy Fritz, biospira or Dr Tims one and only) will reduce 2 ppm ammonia added within a day or so.

Don’t dose to 3 ppm, 2 is already plenty high
 

Gumbies R Us

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I've been neglecting my tank and have had a few equipment failures over the last year that nuked some very large colonies. While I still have surviving corals, the dead skeletons take up too much space and are impossible to remove and my fish have very little room to swim. I also had a vermited snail problem that got out of hand so I am hoping to not introduce them into the tank again so that means new rock and new plumbing. I think its time for a full on reset hoping to take all the knowledge from when I started this hobby 6 years ago and make this process as streamlined as best as I can.

Here are some pics of my tank at its best.

nLd9UBG.jpg

ZOAPy0R.jpg


My plan of attack goes as follows:

- Move existing rock and fish into 150gal rubbermaid tank.
- Drain tank and sump, scrub everything and dry.
- Remove overflow to deep clean, discard plumbing.
- Redo all plumbing, Salvaging expensive gatevalves and such.
- Clean all pumps, wavemakers and equipment
- Redo Aquascape with brand new marco rock ( Not reusing old rock due to vermited snails)
- Fill tank up to top of aquascape with 20ppt saltwater crank the heat up to 85 degrees
- Leave small wavemaker on just to circulate the water a bit to keep heated.
- Dump in a bottle of bacteria over aquascape and dose with 3ppm ammonium chloride
- Monitor with Seneye until Ammonia is gone, Wait a 4 days until nitrates show, redose ammonium chloride to 2ppm and wait 2 more days.
- Fill up rest of the tank with 35ppt water and turn down heaters to 77F and leave the system run for a week

- introduce my fish starting with the small ones like damsels and dwarf angels then least aggressive to most aggressive (Powder blue Tang, Sohal Tang Black Storm Clowns last)
- Start dosing phosphate and Nitrates to try and avoid dinos. I had a huge dino problem for months and tried everything and nothing worked until I accidently overdosed phosphate until it was off the charts ( Talking 0.7ppb) and they went away within a few days. So I'm going to keep dosing to try and keep phosphate at 0.1 or higher until the rock soaks it in.

I won't be adding corals in until my rocks are a deep brown so it will be a fowlr for at least 6 months.

Is there anything I missed ? I would like some imput

Thanks in advance.

I will say your tank looked incredible! Definitely following to see how your new tank will look!
 
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lakai

lakai

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I will subscribe to this thread, I collect seneye data on new cycles this is interesting for sure

In order to calibrate your seneye can you post a recent log showing nh3 avg daily ranges, it should be in the thousandths ppm nh3 on any reef tank post cycle, and if it’s not, the unit isn’t trim set.

In fact in that system your current ranges should be .001-.004 max nh3.

Merely being able to test your current ammonia levels to the predicted range without seeing anything but your stock levels and surface area in the tank is a big win for updated cycling science because all reef tanks run in the same range *when the meter is calibrated and trimmed correctly*


That current rate of running can be used to see how many days a new test load of ammonia comes down after adding bottle bac


Vermitids will for sure get in the new system like they did here. No chance of being vermitid free by starting with new rock, and in fact the uglies phase may compromise corals but if you’re determined to lose your current bio system and start over anyway, that new seneye data will be rare and very valuable.

The prediction is that any common bottle bac meant for cycling (not tank cleaning, don’t buy any brightwell brand of bac buy Fritz, biospira or Dr Tims one and only) will reduce 2 ppm ammonia added within a day or so.

Don’t dose to 3 ppm, 2 is already plenty high
I will give you all the data once I get things going. Why will I get vermited snails if I don't introduce any of the same rock or corals ??
 
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lakai

lakai

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I cooked dry rock for 4 months in a rubbermaid before my newest tank seeded it. Fed phyto , pods. And food. I'm hoping to avoid the bottomed out phos and dinos.
I kind of feel like cooking rock doesn't really help that much if at all at least I never found it to be a shortcut to anything if you' are using dry rock only.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Because they came in the first time

Most reef stock sources have them as juvenile inclusions nobody could see upon initial inspection. Only lengthy quarantine set for the timeframes of vermitids and ensuring none vector in on any wet item added, could be a marked change of input controls. Few people will commit to multi month quarantine of 100% of wet items destined for a reef display, they always get back in.

It's OK to seek controls for them but to start over without first exercising control over existing ones by practice is the formula for getting them again based on vermitid work threads.

Hey is it true your nh3 reading as of now/ today is within that range guessed above

What's your nh3 at today
 

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