Guide to the Triton Method

[Oberst Oswald]

Not a trap... you will be waiting for the test results like a child on Christmas morning. I test every 2 months, not because I have too, but because with the test Triton gives suggestions on improving the water. Take it or leave it. I follow Tritons advice and am rewarded with a nice mixed reef. I would recommend you do two test about a month or two apart. First test to see "where your at" and the second to see the results after you "fixed" any issues that you think is necessary. After that you can go on the Triton Method if you like or move on to something else. True its not a cheap system but its not really a expensive one either. Saving money on salt and RODI water it all kinds of works out in the long run. Triton made my reef a success which I didn't have with 2-part. Money gladly spent...

 

[Berlibee]

Sure, I understand what you mean. I've done several tests already with my prev. systems and sure it's super nice to get the results.

 

[Oberst Oswald]

You have received Triton test results so you know what Triton does. I thought you never did a test before with my post above. If you are concerned about only the expense than I will say no... Triton is not for you. You will have to buy 3 to 4 dosers (good ones at that), the main bottles, plus some of the small jars, light and plants. Triton is not for a man on a tight budget in my opinion.

 

[Berlibee]

My system have everything needed for the method.

1. Kore 5th doser.
2. 10% water volume refugium with different type algae.
3. Strong refugium light.
4. Hybrid t5 on the main display light.

My choice is not like you've described. It's more like Money+Time spend on water changes (salt and water costs) vs 1-2-3-4 Triton parts dosing costs + tests cost.

 

[Berlibee]

@Tim@Triton Can you please tell me if I was right with the dosing amount that I've posted. Thank you.
Also a quick additional question. Do you guys have any information about how corals react when they're taken out of a Triton system to a different method system.
Let's say it's a frag from a Triton system put into a different system run with a more classic method with chaeto reactor and skimmer only...
Do you have any information about? Thank you again.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Sorry missed your answer last day. Yes 0.6 per day consumption. It's 54g main display, 10 sump, 7.5g Refugium.
Thanks for the answer about the testing. This is my fear, the method sounds super interesting. But so scary to fall in the trap of constant tests and spending tons of money on tests ....

Dose based on your consumption should be around 8.3ml a day

 

[Berlibee]

Can I ask you also please. Do Triton have something in the line of additives separate for refugium burst, so I can use separate from the full method to burst my refugium growth and does it make sense to do it?
Thank you.

 

[Oberst Oswald]

Berlibee- looked at your build thread for your tank... very nice. My apologies. It obvious spending money is not an issue so why the reluctance on a few test per year and buying some bottles? Looks like your tank is already set up for Triton but just waiting to pull the trigger. So I was once where your are now wanting to try something better or different. Zeovit, Balling or Triton. I started Triton during d2mini's ELOS build because BRS 2-part was not working for me for a number of reasons and could not keep SPS alive. After d2mini's crash I was devastated and can understand some worries but, so far, I'm more than satisfied and don't mind the cost. Matter of fact its hard to hold back doing monthly tests because I still like Christmas. When I was young, riding my Harley, I met a man who had cancer in a bar. He said something to me that I try not to forget... "best advice I can give you is don't give no advice". This is one of them times where I can't help myself.

 

[Berlibee]

Thanks for checking my thread man, but it's not my first build it's a new build after -> this one 30x30x12 <- the equipment was not collected all at once.It's not all about the money as well, but all the spendings should be under control. I was also checking d2mini thread and after his chaeto died it was very sad. This method is still very new even if it's not so new on the market, it's not like Zeovit with lof of active beautiful tanks and large community. But it's very interesting in my opinion as well. I just feel lack of information and lack of different issues posted with solutions. For example again d2mini tank was crashed and all I see is just guesses about chaeto rising nutrients levels. I will keep an eye on it and continue following the threads. Thanks again.

 

[Oberst Oswald]

Looked at your nano tank and I'm impressed. Why are you thinking Triton when you had a successful Zeovit reef? I thought of Zeovit but seemed way too complicated and didn't fit in my idea of a natural way (starving coral) of doing a reef.

 

[Tristren]

This does seem very interesting. My tank (still new) is 120 gallon display with a 15gallon or so sump, and then a separate refugium with around 30 gallons of space (a 40g breeder less space for heaters and return).

I am good in terms of size but in my setup the refugium will be after the sump. In part because the setup can't be reversed but also because I want the pods and other things going from the five into the display.

So my question is, does having the skimmer before the sump rule out the Triton method.

And a second question is why no sand bed in the refugium?

Thanks

 

[Berlibee]

Looked at your nano tank and I'm impressed. Why are you thinking Triton when you had a successful Zeovit reef? I thought of Zeovit but seemed way too complicated and didn't fit in my idea of a natural way (starving coral) of doing a reef.

It's funny this part is 100% my replay "way too complicated and didn't fit in my idea of a natural way". It's really cool but was a little too much for me and I wanted to run a system as simple as possible, Skimmer + Refugium.

 

[Scott.h]

This does seem very interesting. My tank (still new) is 120 gallon display with a 15gallon or so sump, and then a separate refugium with around 30 gallons of space (a 40g breeder less space for heaters and return).

I am good in terms of size but in my setup the refugium will be after the sump. In part because the setup can't be reversed but also because I want the pods and other things going from the five into the display.

So my question is, does having the skimmer before the sump rule out the Triton method.

And a second question is why no sand bed in the refugium?

Thanks

The biggest reason for the fuge in the first compartment is that you want the fuge/macro to be as successful as possible so that it keeps nutrients in check. Then you don't have to worry about changing water. When doing the full method, and not using filter socks it gives the algae first crack at utilizing the waste before it gets to the skimmer, carbon, etc.

If you can't reroute your sump I wouldn't say that's going to make or break you. If you are keeping macro now, and your nutrients are controllable you'll be fine.

I don't know the reason behind sand, but I'll make a guess - sand takes up valuable sump space and doesn't do much IMO. It also tends to hold nitrates (and collect particles) over time. Aside from that it makes a mess. Again, a guess, but if you have sand and realize these things you'll be fine.

 

[Scott.h]

It's funny this part is 100% my replay "way too complicated and didn't fit in my idea of a natural way". It's really cool but was a little too much for me and I wanted to run a system as simple as possible, Skimmer + Refugium. I still want to do it that way and Triton fit well my way, I think Triton = "2 Parts on Steroids" maybe I have a wrong understanding at this moment, but this is my current opinion about and I could be wrong sure.

If things are working well being simple, I get it. Sometimes spending a few minutes sucking water out is as simple as it gets.

Nothing makes me more worried then zeovit. Aside from very little reliable tech support, so many unknown bottles. First completely stripping the water, then totally relying on making sure you add the correct amount of mysterious liquids every day, and which bottle on what day. They they say things like add "5-10" drops. Well that's a big variation. Who knows what the tank is consuming compared to the variables of what you are actually dosing. After doing as much research as I could get my hands on and lurking on the forum, I figured I'd have a pretty good chance of crashing my tank with no one to call when things went south going that route. At least each triton bottle is labeled accordingly. If a test comes back and says "add 4 ml of boron", you buy the bottle and and add it. You know what it is, and that it's in there. Done.

 

[Berlibee]

Yes, it's cool indeed to get a test easy.
But Zeovit community and Alexander is very helpful on their forum. I don't want this thread to become Zeovit vs Triton. Just two different things and both sounds interesting anyway.

 

[Tristren]

The biggest reason for the fuge in the first compartment is that you want the fuge/macro to be as successful as possible so that it keeps nutrients in check. Then you don't have to worry about changing water. When doing the full method, and not using filter socks it gives the algae first crack at utilizing the waste before it gets to the skimmer, carbon, etc.

If you can't reroute your sump I wouldn't say that's going to make or break you. If you are keeping macro now, and your nutrients are controllable you'll be fine.

I don't know the reason behind sand, but I'll make a guess - sand takes up valuable sump space and doesn't do much IMO. It also tends to hold nitrates (and collect particles) over time. Aside from that it makes a mess. Again, a guess, but if you have sand and realize these things you'll be fine.

That sounds good thanks. As I say, my tank is still new (6 weeks) and at the moment I don't even have a skimmer. So really it goes from the display tank, through an empty sump (just my temp probe in there now) into the refugium and then back up. There are some baffles along the way, but no filter socks.

 

[Scott.h]

That sounds good thanks. As I say, my tank is still new (6 weeks) and at the moment I don't even have a skimmer. So really it goes from the display tank, through an empty sump (just my temp probe in there now) into the refugium and then back up. There are some baffles along the way, but no filter socks.

If you used dry rock to start the tank you may benefit from letting the tank mature a bit first. Do some regular water changes before you spend money on tests, etc. The rocks may leach something, and things when that new tend to go through some rough patches no matter what you do. My two cents. In the meantime you'll be able to get a skimmer going. When and if you start, make sure you use the "non full method core" until the "ugly phase" is behind you, and the fuge is mature.

 

[Oberst Oswald]

I agree with Scott.h on his above two posts. Triton more or less tells (recommends) you exactly what to do with the test results. There are all kinds of instructions explaining what the Triton Method is, Tim is here to answer and give advice to related questions. I find Triton the closest system to being "idiot proof"... dose alk to 8 and adjust your feeding/light so your 'frug is green and growing. Everything else is taken care of with the 4 bottles.
No big deal talking about other methods on this thread as it makes the thread more interesting and keeps it from becoming the killer of all threads... a bore.
I also thought about redoing my 'frug with a mud or sand bottom (have small rock rubble now) to see if I could get more lush plant growth and a paradise environment for pods and stuff. Reading Scott Fellman's thread "Playing Natures Game" has got me thinking that Triton would be perfect way for my reef to balance itself out in time. If you haven't red the thread give it a read for it makes sense and at least in our 'frug should be doable.

 

[Scott.h]

@Tim@Triton

What is tritons take on carbon dosing? I have another tank I've been wanting to convert over. Long story short, weekly 15% water changes keep my N and P around 40 and .18ish. With already having a 50 gal sump/fuge, doubling the size isn't an easy option. With carbon dosing it may be feasible to let water changes go. Right now that would be my only option. I'm giving the tank a test run now on skipping changes to see how far the levels go. What's your thoughts?

 

[Tim@Triton]

@Tim@Triton

What is tritons take on carbon dosing? I have another tank I've been wanting to convert over. Long story short, weekly 15% water changes keep my N and P around 40 and .18ish. With already having a 50 gal sump/fuge, doubling the size isn't an easy option. With carbon dosing it may be feasible to let water changes go. Right now that would be my only option. I'm giving the tank a test run now on skipping changes to see how far the levels go. What's your thoughts?

Carbon dosing actually works very well with Core7.

A word of warning though, choose your carbon source carefully as some are not designed to be used in a zero water change system and will leave behind elements to accumulate quickly. You are best to stick to simple sources such as Vodka or Vinegar