HIGH END Tenuis Hoarder

[SBB Corals]

What brands do you use for the other test kits?

we use Hanna for most and Salifert for the others.

FOr alk, we has use,

for Mag and Calc we use salifet

for No3 and Po4 we use hanna

 

[SBB Corals]

I've never tested for iodine in my tanks. I feed LRS reef frenzy that is made with seafoods that are high in iodine( just google " is seafood high in iodine"). Isn't possible that iodine gets into my system that way?

yes it is but we always reccomend to test for Iodine you should test to see what your levels are the corals can usally consume more then if you where to not add any and i dont think you would get enough from foods ect

 

[SBB Corals]

@SBB Corals Do you still use the G4 Pro?
I was going to ask you for your schedule, but I have the g6 blue now

yes we use G4, g5 and now g6

we use the same schedule for all of them its the AB plus schedule that you can upload from the ap

we run them at 75% intenisty on our sps tanks with no other deviations they run for 9 hours per day

 

[SBB Corals]

Thank you all for Following along and i hope you can start from the beggining of this thread as there is alot of information on keeping SPS corals here

For the Iodine Test please click and follow the link below- It has worked Wonders for us!!! I hope it works well for you and we would love for you to share you results afterwors. at the very least le us know if you tried it thanks and happy reefing

USING HANNA CHECKER HI-707 TO TEST FOR IODINE

USING HANNA CHECKER HI-707 TO TEST FOR IODINE In my quest to improve my testing accuracy and precision I found the standard colorimetric tests for Iodine difficult to get any kind of accurate reading and the repeatability (precision) was not very good. Being that I dosed Iodine this made me...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[AKL1950]

Thank you all for Following along and i hope you can start from the beggining of this thread as there is alot of information on keeping SPS corals here

For the Iodine Test please click and follow the link below- It has worked Wonders for us!!! I hope it works well for you and we would love for you to share you results afterwors. at the very least le us know if you tried it thanks and happy reefing

USING HANNA CHECKER HI-707 TO TEST FOR IODINE

USING HANNA CHECKER HI-707 TO TEST FOR IODINE In my quest to improve my testing accuracy and precision I found the standard colorimetric tests for Iodine difficult to get any kind of accurate reading and the repeatability (precision) was not very good. Being that I dosed Iodine this made me...

www.reef2reef.com

I started using that test protocol two weeks ago and it’s really easy to do. Tested everyday for two weeks and saw the tank was using about 15 ug/l per day. Was easy to start matching that with dosing to keep it between 65-75 ug/l. For my tank (180 gal mostly SPS) it’s about 0.25 ml a day. Definitely seeing more polyp extension.

 

[Paulb89]

@SBB Corals
Hey Shane I know you must be incredibly busy but when you get a chance are you able to flick me a reply to my question on the previous page.

Would love to see some pictures if possible!

Cheers!

 

[SBB Corals]

Hi Shane

I have just read through all 82 pages and have picked up some great advice and tips, epic thread!

Do you have any before and after pics at all?
I'd love to see some colonies the day they go into your system and then the finished product.

I'm in Western Australia and have access to wild Acro from the north of WA, quite alot of tenius and most of it is brown, green or purple, I'm led to believe that due to the massive mining sector we have here the ocean in the area gets saturated with certain elements which turn them that colour.

Do you have any colonies from this area at all or have any tips on what to look out for when buying them to find a diamond in the rough? I don't want to end up with a tank full of green acro

we dont have any before and after pics sorry i wish we did

 

[chipchipbro]

yes we use G4, g5 and now g6

we use the same schedule for all of them its the AB plus schedule that you can upload from the ap

we run them at 75% intenisty on our sps tanks with no other deviations they run for 9 hours per day

Dear Shane

Well, thanks for the explanation though.
I am having a bit of a trouble to keep my frags and acros colored up. Its more the POP.. the shiny, glowy look the lose after a few weeks in my tank when I receive frags.

I use a XR30 G5 Blue over my 24" tank and used to run the LED at 100% intensity AB+

SO do you think too much light can cause darkening?
Or would you say a single XR30 G5 blue is not enough light?

Some say its the chemistry and not the light, but my ICP always show everything is fine with the traces and elements.

 

[tbrown]

Dear Shane

Well, thanks for the explanation though.
I am having a bit of a trouble to keep my frags and acros colored up. Its more the POP.. the shiny, glowy look the lose after a few weeks in my tank when I receive frags.

I use a XR30 G5 Blue over my 24" tank and used to run the LED at 100% intensity AB+

SO do you think too much light can cause darkening?
Or would you say a single XR30 G5 blue is not enough light?

Some say its the chemistry and not the light, but my ICP always show everything is fine with the traces and elements.

I'll chime in a bit here: usually too much light causes them to pale, not darken. Also, when you say your ICP show everything is fine, what are your phosphates, nitrates, iodine, potassium, etc? Different colors require different trace elements to really show through. Iron, Potassium, and Manganese are the main ones I can remember. Iodide is good for coral health and phosphates and nitrates are a food source for corals.

 

[chipchipbro]

I'll chime in a bit here: usually too much light causes them to pale, not darken. Also, when you say your ICP show everything is fine, what are your phosphates, nitrates, iodine, potassium, etc? Different colors require different trace elements to really show through. Iron, Potassium, and Manganese are the main ones I can remember. Iodide is good for coral health and phosphates and nitrates are a food source for corals.

Hey man!
Thanks for the answer so far.
I will let you know, I just sent out an ICP today.
Usually no3 is around 10 and po4 around 0.1
Iodine usually is in the normal recommended range. Potassium is around 420

 

[tbrown]

@matskibanov check out this thread. Shane is awesome and grows some amazing Acros. He and a lot of the people here can offer some help and suggestions.

 

[matskibanov]

@matskibanov check out this thread. Shane is awesome and grows some amazing Acros. He and a lot of the people here can offer some help and suggestions.

Thank you very much for your help!

 

[tbrown]

Thank you very much for your help!

I'm nowhere near the help @SBB Corals is. And @billyocean can help a lot as well!

 

[chipchipbro]

@SBB Corals
Sorry to hijack the thread for a non-acropora question
But, under what PAR and what lighting preset do you keep your Torches at?

Is it also under AB+ spectrum?

 

[SBB Corals]

@SBB Corals
Sorry to hijack the thread for a non-acropora question
But, under what PAR and what lighting preset do you keep your Torches at?

Is it also under AB+ spectrum?

120 par yes ab

 

[David Cher]

for lighting did you use the default ab+?

 

[SBB Corals]

for lighting did you use the default ab+?

yes that is correct the defualt ab+

 

[matskibanov]

Phew... After weeks of slowly flipping through pages, finally i got here hahaha. What a thread! tons of highly insightful writeups that I managed to take notes to experiment on my tank later.

Hi everyone, greetings from Indonesia!

Shane, I had a mini heart attack every time I see pics of sticks you posted here hahaha... those are some of the most amazing coral colorations I've ever seen!

Speaking about coloration, I have a question. My tank is 150L (around 40 gal) in total and has been running for a little bit over a year now. this tank has been aimed to be a mixed reef tank since the very beginning and I managed to maintain stability for nearly months before I decided to give acros a try. I got too excited and ended up getting 5 aquacultured frags from a friend of mine. After all the frags were put into place, I noticed that they changed color to slightly green, which I took as a temporary stress commonly happens when Acropora comes into a new tank. But then something strange happened. Of all the 5 frags, purple Valida and RR wildfire slowly turned back to their original color, while a pink mille and a yellow Latistella with deep red PE became more and more green, they look completely neon green now. 1 other frag is a Poletti yellow tip, which is supposed to be soft green. But still, the green seems off. All 5 frags lost their PE, almost completely on the yellow Latistella.

I've searched through this website and found that light (blue bulb, spectrum, intensity, etc.) most likely be the culprit for greening acros. regarding PAR, I haven't checked it yet since the device is quite hard to come by where I live. I use Noopsyche v3 140w and look around for anyone who has a similar tank dimension and lighting setup as I do that has checked their PAR reading. From that, I assumed that the PAR reading at the spot where I put my acros is around 250-350 PAR. I also reduced the blue and increased the white since too much blue light is said to cause greening in acros.

Regarding PE, i found a thread about bugs that can be a cause for the loss of PE. I inspected my frags in the night, found the culprit, performed 3 weeks of milbemycin treatment, and the PE has been slowly improving since then. It's just the neon green color that doesn't seem to be going to turn for the better.

At this point, I assumed that it was just a matter of stability and time since I don't have access to the ICP test (haven't found a reliable lab) yet. But I would like to hear your opinion guys. Thanks!

My params are:
0,1 PO4
5-10 NO3 (on my way to slowly increase it)
8,3-9,0 Alk
1320-1380 Mag
420-450 Cal
8,0-8,4 PH
25-27 (celcius) Temp

 

[billyocean]

Phew... After weeks of slowly flipping through pages, finally i got here hahaha. What a thread! tons of highly insightful writeups that I managed to take notes to experiment on my tank later.

Hi everyone, greetings from Indonesia!

Shane, I had a mini heart attack every time I see pics of sticks you posted here hahaha... those are some of the most amazing coral colorations I've ever seen!

Speaking about coloration, I have a question. My tank is 150L (around 40 gal) in total and has been running for a little bit over a year now. this tank has been aimed to be a mixed reef tank since the very beginning and I managed to maintain stability for nearly months before I decided to give acros a try. I got too excited and ended up getting 5 aquacultured frags from a friend of mine. After all the frags were put into place, I noticed that they changed color to slightly green, which I took as a temporary stress commonly happens when Acropora comes into a new tank. But then something strange happened. Of all the 5 frags, purple Valida and RR wildfire slowly turned back to their original color, while a pink mille and a yellow Latistella with deep red PE became more and more green, they look completely neon green now. 1 other frag is a Poletti yellow tip, which is supposed to be soft green. But still, the green seems off. All 5 frags lost their PE, almost completely on the yellow Latistella.

I've searched through this website and found that light (blue bulb, spectrum, intensity, etc.) most likely be the culprit for greening acros. regarding PAR, I haven't checked it yet since the device is quite hard to come by where I live. I use Noopsyche v3 140w and look around for anyone who has a similar tank dimension and lighting setup as I do that has checked their PAR reading. From that, I assumed that the PAR reading at the spot where I put my acros is around 250-350 PAR. I also reduced the blue and increased the white since too much blue light is said to cause greening in acros.

Regarding PE, i found a thread about bugs that can be a cause for the loss of PE. I inspected my frags in the night, found the culprit, performed 3 weeks of milbemycin treatment, and the PE has been slowly improving since then. It's just the neon green color that doesn't seem to be going to turn for the better.

At this point, I assumed that it was just a matter of stability and time since I don't have access to the ICP test (haven't found a reliable lab) yet. But I would like to hear your opinion guys. Thanks!

My params are:
0,1 PO4
5-10 NO3 (on my way to slowly increase it)
8,3-9,0 Alk
1320-1380 Mag
420-450 Cal
8,0-8,4 PH
25-27 (celcius) Temp

I guess it depends on what range of "blue" you're referring to..I run all blues and have no problems with color. Could be low light or spectrum, high iron or iodine..several factors come in to play. Don't change anything quickly. If they are healthy and showing some growth/encrusting then that's the most important for now. Are you dosing anything?

 

[matskibanov]

I guess it depends on what range of "blue" you're referring to..I run all blues and have no problems with color. Could be low light or spectrum, high iron or iodine..several factors come in to play. Don't change anything quickly. If they are healthy and showing some growth/encrusting then that's the most important for now. Are you dosing anything?

Hi, thanks for your input!
Here is my light schedule and how I set it up at peak time. All the blues, green, and violet ramp up and peak at the same percentage.

As for dosing, aside from my red sea cal and alk and acropower, I'm currently dosing sodium nitrate 5 ml/day and acropower 4 ml/day which have been going on for a week now. I used a mixture of MgSO4 and MgCl for dosing magnesium. I used to dose 1 drop/day of povidone-iodine for almost a month to encourage goniopora pe. I know I shouldn't dose what I can't test, but apparently, it worked for the gonis. But again, I stopped dosing it since I noticed the greening.