High Nitrates

[Seascapes]

Can anyone provide some assistance with my issue? I'm having problems with nitrates and phosphates. My Nitrates are staying above 40, was 65 plus at one point and my phosphates are staying around .12. I got my my phosphates to .07 , but they keep creeping up. I've been doing water changes, cleaning the sand, removed my bio spears and cleaned the sump, changing my filter socks weekly or more, cleaning the skimmer daily, added a small amount of cheato put in seachem purit, I have one pouch of chemi pure blue left that I will be removing today. I've been dosing nopox, microbactor 7, prime, and lanthem chloride to bring my phospate levels down to .13. Now I'm getting red slime and some orange cyano on my one sps that has lost color, it's white and brown , I believe it's dead or dying. One of my hammer coral dropped it's polyps and the head has been floating around the tank, still alive but shrinking. The only coral that is holding on is another hammer. I recently purchased a clean up crew of snails, one starfish and scarlet hermits. Two additional power heads to increase air flow to my existing gyres. Changed my RO filters, tds 0. I'm at my wits end really frustrated. Since I've moved to Texas about 3 years ago, my 150 gallon aquarium has not been the same. I started with rock shapes instead of live rock. I have sponges, pods and I'm starting to get coraline algae.. I use to be able to keep lps, and now this mess is happening. I'm also getting lanthem chloride white film on my low iron glass which looks terrible.

 

[Spare time]

I would stop nopox if you are getting cyano.


The best solution I have ever seen to knock down extremely high numbers is biopellets, followed by gfo for remaining phosphates. Just make sure to not bottom things out. It is not instant but once the biopellets kick in, they are extremely impressive (can easily knock down hundreds of ppm of nitrates)

 

[Spare time]

Also, I would change filter socks more than weekly. If you hate cleaning them, you could check out reef diapers

 

[Seascapes]

I would stop nopox if you are getting cyano.


The best solution I have ever seen to knock down extremely high numbers is biopellets, followed by gfo for remaining phosphates. Just make sure to not bottom things out. It is not instant but once the biopellets kick in, they are extremely impressive (can easily knock down hundreds of ppm of nitrates)

I haven't used biopellets before. I'll have to see how to set one up, thank you, I'll stop the nopox.

 

[Seascapes]

Also, I would change filter socks more than weekly. If you hate cleaning them, you could check out reef diapers

Okay, I was looking at those. I have to have a flexible ring for my emerald sump. When I checked last they wouldn't fit.

 

[Spare time]

Okay, I was looking at those. I have to have a flexible ring for my emerald sump. When I checked last they wouldn't fit.

Do you have room to put one externally or with the pump built in underneath?

Also, I think @Randy Holmes-Farley prefers vinegar to nopox as I believe he mentioned once it seems to not have as many issues with cyano but I'll let him mention or correct that if he sees this

 

[drewwCh]

I tackled my high nitrates using macroalgae, specifically Caulerpa racemosa AKA Grape Caulerpa. They were just like yours at 40-50. Ditched carbon dosing because I didn't see the intended results and I was already struggling with low-ish pH at the time. Caulerpa has steadily brought nitrates from 50-25ish over a month, now upgrading to a way stronger light to boost its growth.

I think that cleaning the filter sock every 2-3 days would be a lot better compared to once a week, don't take my word for it though cause I don't use filter socks.

 

[Dan_P]

Can anyone provide some assistance with my issue? I'm having problems with nitrates and phosphates. My Nitrates are staying above 40, was 65 plus at one point and my phosphates are staying around .12. I got my my phosphates to .07 , but they keep creeping up. I've been doing water changes, cleaning the sand, removed my bio spears and cleaned the sump, changing my filter socks weekly or more, cleaning the skimmer daily, added a small amount of cheato put in seachem purit, I have one pouch of chemi pure blue left that I will be removing today. I've been dosing nopox, microbactor 7, prime, and lanthem chloride to bring my phospate levels down to .13. Now I'm getting red slime and some orange cyano on my one sps that has lost color, it's white and brown , I believe it's dead or dying. One of my hammer coral dropped it's polyps and the head has been floating around the tank, still alive but shrinking. The only coral that is holding on is another hammer. I recently purchased a clean up crew of snails, one starfish and scarlet hermits. Two additional power heads to increase air flow to my existing gyres. Changed my RO filters, tds 0. I'm at my wits end really frustrated. Since I've moved to Texas about 3 years ago, my 150 gallon aquarium has not been the same. I started with rock shapes instead of live rock. I have sponges, pods and I'm starting to get coraline algae.. I use to be able to keep lps, and now this mess is happening. I'm also getting lanthem chloride white film on my low iron glass which looks terrible.

I would get a second opinion about 0.12 ppm PO4 being a problem. If you are getting some sort of salt precipitation, check into whether that is bothering the coral.

Why are you adding Prime?

I am skeptical that Microbacter 7 is doing anthing useful for your system.

The CUC may do nothing to lower the nitrates.

I am wondering whether the cyanobacteria growth is an indication that the coral is sick.

Organic carbon dosing can work, but it fails when the dose is too low. For vinegar, it starts to work quickly around 1 mL per gallon.

Growing macro algae can work, but you need to be good at growing algae and you will need a large amount to quickly lower the nitrate in a 150 g system.

 

[Seascapes]

I would get a second opinion about 0.12 ppm PO4 being a problem. If you are getting some sort of salt precipitation, check into whether that is bothering the coral.

Why are you adding Prime?

I am skeptical that Microbacter 7 is doing anthing useful for your system.

The CUC may do nothing to lower the nitrates.

I am wondering whether the cyanobacteria growth is an indication that the coral is sick.

Organic carbon dosing can work, but it fails when the dose is too low. For vinegar, it starts to work quickly around 1 mL per gallon.

Growing macro algae can work, but you need to be good at growing algae and you will need a large amount to quickly lower the nitrate in a 150 g system.

I was trying to add prime to detoxify the nitrates. I guess that's not going to work. The coral that has the cyano on it is probably dead by now. Are you referring to white vinegar only?

 

[Seascapes]

I tackled my high nitrates using macroalgae, specifically Caulerpa racemosa AKA Grape Caulerpa. They were just like yours at 40-50. Ditched carbon dosing because I didn't see the intended results and I was already struggling with low-ish pH at the time. Caulerpa has steadily brought nitrates from 50-25ish over a month, now upgrading to a way stronger light to boost its growth.

I think that cleaning the filter sock every 2-3 days would be a lot better compared to once a week, don't take my word for it though cause I don't use filter socks.

Where did you purchase grape caulerpa? I thought calerpa was bad?

 

[Dan_P]

I was trying to add prime to detoxify the nitrates. I guess that's not going to work. The coral that has the cyano on it is probably dead by now. Are you referring to white vinegar only?

Yes, white vinegar only.

 

[Seascapes]

Yes, white vinegar only.

Thank you, I'll get some. I only have apple cider vinegar on hand.

 

[Seascapes]

Thank you, I'll get some. I only have apple cider vinegar on hand.

Got my vinagar, how much to dose for 150 gallon

 

[fushi]

Can anyone provide some assistance with my issue? I'm having problems with nitrates and phosphates. My Nitrates are staying above 40, was 65 plus at one point and my phosphates are staying around .12. I got my my phosphates to .07 , but they keep creeping up. I've been doing water changes, cleaning the sand, removed my bio spears and cleaned the sump, changing my filter socks weekly or more, cleaning the skimmer daily, added a small amount of cheato put in seachem purit, I have one pouch of chemi pure blue left that I will be removing today. I've been dosing nopox, microbactor 7, prime, and lanthem chloride to bring my phospate levels down to .13. Now I'm getting red slime and some orange cyano on my one sps that has lost color, it's white and brown , I believe it's dead or dying. One of my hammer coral dropped it's polyps and the head has been floating around the tank, still alive but shrinking. The only coral that is holding on is another hammer. I recently purchased a clean up crew of snails, one starfish and scarlet hermits. Two additional power heads to increase air flow to my existing gyres. Changed my RO filters, tds 0. I'm at my wits end really frustrated. Since I've moved to Texas about 3 years ago, my 150 gallon aquarium has not been the same. I started with rock shapes instead of live rock. I have sponges, pods and I'm starting to get coraline algae.. I use to be able to keep lps, and now this mess is happening. I'm also getting lanthem chloride white film on my low iron glass which looks terrible.

Sometimes trying to fight everything with chemicals can cause other problems and just throw everything out of wack. I would recommend trying to fight nitrates and phosphates as one issue instead of attacking them separately. I would stop dosing all of those different things and stick to one method like your carbon dosing (NOPOX).
Bacteria, corals, algae, etc. all use nitrates, phosphates, and carbon at set rate so when you remove one without the other you throw the natural ratio out of wack and don't leave enough of one nutrient to be consumed with the other. I also wouldn't get hung up on specific numbers, there are healthy tanks in the high ranges and in the low ranges, but what all healthy tanks have in common is stability.
So your best bet is getting the tank stable again.

If this was my tank I would stop all the extra stuff and stick to a simple method. Personaly I would go with a refugium or carbon dosing (nopox) or both. If you just use the refugium make sure you have a good light on the cheto.
I would add more flow to the areas that are experiencing cyano, and dose prodibio biodigest as I prefer this to MB7 and dose biodigest everyday for a couple weeks. You can not OD biodigest as it only contains good bacteria. I would also continue doing water changes to help get your nutrients back in balance. Let the method you choose reduce PO4 and NO3 at the ratio its naturally does and don't worry about keeping them at a specific number, the goal is to just have them at a stable ratio.

cheap but strong light


Once corals start to die it can be really hard to save them usually the only thing that can is stability.
If you are still experiencing die off once things are stable you could try the witch hazel treatment but it won't save anything too far gone or correct instability issue. (I have have had recent success with this treatment)

https://www.reefmoonshiners.com/witchhazel-reeftank-treatment

You may also want to read through the reef moonshiners handbook as there's a good section on balancing nutrients. It also explains the redfield ratio which is a good guideline but again I wouldn't get hung up on exact numbers.

I would also be careful about just dumping tons of carbon sources (nopox, vinegar, vodka) in to get your nutrients down, as carbon fuels all types of bacteria including cyano.

Slow and steady wins the race.


I hope this helps

 

[Seascapes]

Yes, white vinegar only.

Got the vinagar. How much for 150 gallon?

 

[Seascapes]

Sometimes trying to fight everything with chemicals can cause other problems and just throw everything out of wack. I would recommend trying to fight nitrates and phosphates as one issue instead of attacking them separately. I would stop dosing all of those different things and stick to one method like your carbon dosing (NOPOX).
Bacteria, corals, algae, etc. all use nitrates, phosphates, and carbon at set rate so when you remove one without the other you throw the natural ratio out of wack and don't leave enough of one nutrient to be consumed with the other. I also wouldn't get hung up on specific numbers, there are healthy tanks in the high ranges and in the low ranges, but what all healthy tanks have in common is stability.
So your best bet is getting the tank stable again.

If this was my tank I would stop all the extra stuff and stick to a simple method. Personaly I would go with a refugium or carbon dosing (nopox) or both. If you just use the refugium make sure you have a good light on the cheto.
I would add more flow to the areas that are experiencing cyano, and dose prodibio biodigest as I prefer this to MB7 and dose biodigest everyday for a couple weeks. You can not OD biodigest as it only contains good bacteria. I would also continue doing water changes to help get your nutrients back in balance. Let the method you choose reduce PO4 and NO3 at the ratio its naturally does and don't worry about keeping them at a specific number, the goal is to just have them at a stable ratio.

cheap but strong light


Once corals start to die it can be really hard to save them usually the only thing that can is stability.
If you are still experiencing die off once things are stable you could try the witch hazel treatment but it won't save anything too far gone or correct instability issue. (I have have had recent success with this treatment)

https://www.reefmoonshiners.com/witchhazel-reeftank-treatment

You may also want to read through the reef moonshiners handbook as there's a good section on balancing nutrients. It also explains the redfield ratio which is a good guideline but again I wouldn't get hung up on exact numbers.

I would also be careful about just dumping tons of carbon sources (nopox, vinegar, vodka) in to get your nutrients down and can carbon fuels all types of bacteria including cyano.

Slow and steady wins the race.


I hope this helps

Thank you

 

[Seascapes]

Sometimes trying to fight everything with chemicals can cause other problems and just throw everything out of wack. I would recommend trying to fight nitrates and phosphates as one issue instead of attacking them separately. I would stop dosing all of those different things and stick to one method like your carbon dosing (NOPOX).
Bacteria, corals, algae, etc. all use nitrates, phosphates, and carbon at set rate so when you remove one without the other you throw the natural ratio out of wack and don't leave enough of one nutrient to be consumed with the other. I also wouldn't get hung up on specific numbers, there are healthy tanks in the high ranges and in the low ranges, but what all healthy tanks have in common is stability.
So your best bet is getting the tank stable again.

If this was my tank I would stop all the extra stuff and stick to a simple method. Personaly I would go with a refugium or carbon dosing (nopox) or both. If you just use the refugium make sure you have a good light on the cheto.
I would add more flow to the areas that are experiencing cyano, and dose prodibio biodigest as I prefer this to MB7 and dose biodigest everyday for a couple weeks. You can not OD biodigest as it only contains good bacteria. I would also continue doing water changes to help get your nutrients back in balance. Let the method you choose reduce PO4 and NO3 at the ratio its naturally does and don't worry about keeping them at a specific number, the goal is to just have them at a stable ratio.

cheap but strong light


Once corals start to die it can be really hard to save them usually the only thing that can is stability.
If you are still experiencing die off once things are stable you could try the witch hazel treatment but it won't save anything too far gone or correct instability issue. (I have have had recent success with this treatment)

https://www.reefmoonshiners.com/witchhazel-reeftank-treatment

You may also want to read through the reef moonshiners handbook as there's a good section on balancing nutrients. It also explains the redfield ratio which is a good guideline but again I wouldn't get hung up on exact numbers.

I would also be careful about just dumping tons of carbon sources (nopox, vinegar, vodka) in to get your nutrients down and can carbon fuels all types of bacteria including cyano.

Slow and steady wins the race.


I hope this helps

I was using biodigest but nothing was happening, maybe I was impatient

 

[fushi]

I was using biodigest but nothing was happening, maybe I was impatient

Biodigest and other bottled bacterias are't quick fixes or cures; you just add them to keep the population of good bacteria high while you deal with all the bad bacteria. The quick fix is getting things stable.

Do you feed a lot?

 

[Seascapes]

No, I've been trying to reduce feeding since all of this happened. Only once a week to the tank and I feed the fish 1 cube per day and nori every other day.. I have 4 tangs, 2 chromis, sleeper gobie, 2 clowns, 1 Fendi, 1 wrasse. I just added some snails, Scarlett hermits and 1 starfish. I also have a huge peppermint shrimp. Anenome split and its white instead of pink.

 

[Seascapes]

Biodigest and other bottled bacterias are't quick fixes or cures; you just add them to keep the population of good bacteria high while you deal with all the bad bacteria. The quick fix is getting things stable.

Do you feed a lot?

No, I've been trying to reduce feeding since all of this happened. Only once a week to the tank and I feed the fish 1 cube per day and nori every other day.. I have 4 tangs, 2 chromis, sleeper gobie, 2 clowns, 1 Fendi, 1 wrasse. I just added some snails, Scarlett hermits and 1 starfish. I also have a huge peppermint shrimp. Anenome that has split and is white instead of pink