How to change fluval FX6 filter media to a proper filter? (Nitrate issues)

[Marquarium]

Hi All!
I'm new to Reef2Reef but have been running my saltwater aquariums for about a year now!

My question resolves around canister filters and their filtering media - specifically Fluval FX6

I have been using the standard filter media that came with it but want to upgrade it. I'm having nitrate issues that even weekly water 20% changes and routine canister cleanings arent helping. I also have a HOB protein skimmer. Aquarium is 125 gals running 2 FX6s + the HOB skimmer + Aquatop SP13-UV Internal Filter

Nitrates are typically around 70-80ppm, looking to try and maintain more of 10-20ppm

What filter media should I add to the FX6 to make it better and increase the nitrate removal? I've seen youtube videos where peoples media look 100% different than what I have/what came with the filter. But I don't know much about filter media at all and don't know what I should be adding/removing/replacing.

My current plan (feel free to tell me if garbage) is to add fluvals phosphate and nitrite reducer media to the canister.
Fluval doesnt offer a nitrate reducer and I figured nitrites turn to nitrate so could that help?

 

[blaxsun]

What does a "routine" canister cleaning consist of? You may simply be running too high a bio load and need to supplement your canister filter with a refugium or look at a different setup altogethr.

 

[Marquarium]

What does a "routine" canister cleaning consist of? You may simply be running too high a bio load and need to supplement your canister filter with a refugium or look at a different setup altogethr.

Great question - I rinse all media in the saltwater that I am changing and dumping about every 1-2 months. I try to alternate which canister im cleaning per month

Completely agree on the refugium too. I'm considering trying to make a small DIY one since this tank isn't running a sump. My tank with a sump the refugium is soooo nice. Feels like I barely have to do maintenance compared to the canister tank.

 

[brandon429]

these points will help you

since this is a reef forum, the assumption is you have live rock in a display tank. you can't run a bioload so large the rock can't process ammonia, this filter if taken offline would cause 0% problem to your reef. extra filtration isn't needed in reefing, it's just something peers tell each other to do and we learn it as a requirement.

you can ditch this entire filter and nothing will go wrong. you can run it bone empty for movement only, nothing will go wrong. you don't need what's inside the filter it is not a crucial link in your system. the bacteria it houses are extra bioload your reef tolerates, like extra fish. the filter uses up oxygen in competition with your reef life, emits waste acids, reduces alkalinity (nitrification reduces alkalinity)

it's a stress on your system, not a help. if you chose to run three extra canister filters the system can still deal with it, but none are needed. they're needed in fish only setups that don't use live rock.

point#2

if you have a sandbed that alone is storing up a massive amount of detritus waste that is leaking back into the system

#3
search and read Randy's article on nitrate in the reef tank. water changes can't fix it

you have to have plant uptake, bacterial uptake and export usually via extra skimming, or reactors that eat it up in the form of gassing off the nitrate. your sandbed can't be made to do this despite what you read, it takes an actual reactor.

 

[Marquarium]

these points will help you

since this is a reef forum, the assumption is you have live rock in a display tank. you can't run a bioload so large the rock can't process ammonia, this filter if taken offline would cause 0% problem to your reef. extra filtration isn't needed in reefing, it's just something peers tell each other to do and we learn it as a requirement.

you can ditch this entire filter and nothing will go wrong. you can run it bone empty for movement only, nothing will go wrong. you don't need what's inside the filter it is not a crucial link in your system. the bacteria it houses are extra bioload your reef tolerates, like extra fish. the filter uses up oxygen in competition with your reef life, emits waste acids, reduces alkalinity (nitrification reduces alkalinity)

it's a stress on your system, not a help. if you chose to run three extra canister filters the system can still deal with it, but none are needed. they're needed in fish only setups that don't use live rock.

point#2

if you have a sandbed that alone is storing up a massive amount of detritus waste that is leaking back into the system

#3
search and read Randy's article on nitrate in the reef tank. water changes can't fix it

you have to have plant uptake, bacterial uptake and export usually via extra skimming, or reactors that eat it up in the form of gassing off the nitrate. your sandbed can't be made to do this despite what you read, it takes

Great reply I appreciate it a ton! Going to see how I can manage to fit a HOB refugium or a small sump under my tank working as. I'm sure there's posts out there of people DIY making a small refugium

 

[Marquarium]

Stupid question i'll add:
While I work on a small sump, could I put some chaeto directly in the aquarium in a small box, and then remove every few days? Or does that defeat the whole purpose, since the chaeto is in the tank and not a separate tank?

 

[brandon429]

I don't think it will matter one way or another, it's too slow growing to assist much in actual binding rates. if a clump was enough to make a difference and overcome the waste production from a sandbed, anywhere in the water path will work. You will need a massive amount of highly lit plants to overcome the production if there's a sandbed in this tank, you'd be better off removing the sand than adding chaeto

(but there's many threads saying a baseball sized clump of chaeto reduced my nitrates)

agreed there are hundreds of those posts: reason I don't believe them, 1% are using digital calibrated meters to take the reading. 99% are using color comparison kits that range 50-100ppm per sample, across kits

so that means right now, your reading can easily be 50-100ppm + or - off what you think it is.

nitrate never needs to be tested for in reefing. I have been reefing 22 years and never owned the kit, keeping any corals I want to keep. it's a fad to test + guess + react to it. I don't ever test for it in thousands of tank rescue threads I run we can search out, nitrate management plays 0% in invasion control for me as well. we're deluding ourselves if we think non digital nitrate test kits are accurate.

 

[Marquarium]

I don't think it will matter one way or another, it's too slow growing to assist much in actual binding rates. if a clump was enough to make a difference and overcome the waste production from a sandbed, anywhere in the water path will work. You will need a massive amount of highly lit plants to overcome the production if there's a sandbed in this tank, you'd be better off removing the sand than adding chaeto

(but there's many threads saying a baseball sized clump of chaeto reduced my nitrates)

agreed there are hundreds of those posts: reason I don't believe them, 1% are using digital calibrated meters to take the reading. 99% are using color comparison kits that range 50-100ppm per sample, across kits

so that means right now, your reading can easily be 50-100ppm + or - off what you think it is.

nitrate never needs to be tested for in reefing. I have been reefing 22 years and never owned the kit, keeping any corals I want to keep. it's a fad to test + guess + react to it. I don't ever test for it in thousands of tank rescue threads I run we can search out, nitrate management plays 0% in invasion control for me as well. we're deluding ourselves if we think non digital nitrate test kits are accurate.

Apologies - I am using a hanna nitrate checker for that at least. Not sure how truly reliable someone with 22 yoe would find them. I really am surprised by what I am reading so far on R2R. Your replies and many other threads bringing things to light that i've never heard of before. Really great site and excited to learn a lot and have my tanks thriving!

 

[brandon429]

Hey that's one decent checker I thought this may be api he he

Still it wouldn't ever change my reefing course. Paul B on here, the longest living reef on the site, hits 160ppm at times he's posted- that's massive levels and it just doesn't matter. The reason I'll never test for it in my tank is I don't care if it's 1 ppm or 160 it simply doesn't factor in the arc of my reef tank

Feeding approach to the system and lighting is key, and how we're trained to handle invasions which will come regardless of the N and P levels. Physical things with no measure are the key to long term reefing. That UV filter you have is a very very helpful tool for sure, to pre burn invasions before they set in

Even with it expect the need for manual removal of targets as needed, we're the working grazers for reef tanks since the animals we buy for the job rarely do the right work