Guess I was just assuming otherwise what else would raise salinity? Thought it’s only the remaining sodium chloride
Forgot about those. I don’t change water
What is balling?
Coralife part A B nano reef
Refractometer
Attempt is to replicate salt mix without the salt. How I explain it to myself.
www.bulkreefsupply.com
I use lfs water soooo idk
I suppose you check it but if you don't that might be source of issues. Don't trust them to change out RODI filters and why I'd struggle to trust they mixed it correctly. Not saying all LFS but just because one sells something doesn't mean they perform everything. Staff might be lazy or lack attention to detail.
www.reef2reef.com
I have enough experience with “Oops” incidents during mixing and how easily we can put the salt mix into the RODI bucket and then RODI into the salt container, on accident especially if the store is busy with customers and trying to make proper water in a hurry….
Sorry if I came across as assuming. Sometimes best to ask. At a minimum. Another gets educated. Stores are busy places where profit makes attention spans short. Know that from experience. Why I don’t trust any even the best of them. Humans will be humans. I know. I’m oneI have enough experience with “Oops” incidents during mixing and how easily we can put the salt mix into the RODI bucket and then RODI into the salt container, on accident especially if the store is busy with customers and trying to make proper water in a hurry….
I try to test not only specific gravity but also gKH, and temperature and magnesium levels ( the 3 variables that give me a good idea of what should be in the bucket) and make sure that they are where they need to be to make the most of the water change to keep the parameters consistent in the tank.
I don’t trust Larry the LFS store guy or myself to mix and then pour water into the tank without double checking my/their work. I have often put off a water change “until tomorrow” because I didn’t have time to test the bucket that contained my fresh salt mix parameters.
It’s got to be right before it goes in.
I didn’t notice anything that might require a “Sorry”, but I appreciate the concern and hope I didn’t cause any trouble either?Sorry if I came across as assuming. Sometimes best to ask. At a minimum. Another gets educated. Stores are busy places where profit makes attention spans short. Know that from experience. Why I don’t trust any even the best of them. Humans will be humans. I know. I’m one
So just get the part 3 and add it to my routine?I describe the use of products such as Balling Part C and AF mineral Reef Salt here:
How a Two Part Alkalinity and Calcium System Works, and Why it Matters
How a Two Part Alkalinity and Calcium System Works, and Why it Matters By Randy Holmes-Farley This article is intended to help aquarists understand some of the important differences between the great variety of two and three part alkalinity and...
from it:
Ion Balance
There are three fundamentally different ways to dealing with the ion imbalances and reductions caused by the accumulating sodium and chloride and subsequent salinity adjustments. These are:
...
2. A second method involves using a third part intended to correct these ion imbalances. This method is technically simpler than #1 since one is not deciding what can go where.
Commercial approaches in this regard include Tropic Marin Balling Part C and Aquaforest Reef Mineral Salt as the third part. These are artificial sea salt mixes without the sodium chloride, and are seemingly easy for a salt mix manufacturer to make correctly. The reason such a system can work is that, as noted above, the accumulating sodium and chloride are in the same ratio as in sodium chloride. Sodium chloride is the biggest ingredient in any salt mix (it must be), but if it is left out, and combined with the accumulating sodium chloride from use of the alkalinity and calcium parts, one can have a residue that matches the original salt mix in all aspects.
These third parts work equally well whether the alkalinity part is sodium bicarbonate, or carbonate or hydroxide, since all add the same amount of sodium per unit of alkalinity added. They are thus easily combined with any other two part, such as a DIY, to take a hybrid approach to save costs or to use sodium hydroxide for the alkalinity part.
One minor point is that while conceptually this works out well, if one is doing water changes along the way, between when the excess sodium and chloride were added and when the third part is added and salinity is corrected, the final effect will not be perfect. I think this effect is quite minor unless one waits a long time before making the adjustments. Ideally, one would frequently be adding this third part. The amount to use will depend on how much of the other two parts are being used.
Another issue is that use of sodium chloride free salt cannot offset ANY consumption of ions, such as magnesium or trace elements, unless it is not actually sodium chloride free salt as both companies claim, and those ions may need to be added in some other fashion.
Finally, it is not clear to me whether these mixtures actually contain calcium or alkalinity. If they do, as they seeming claim from the description, that may limit how concentrated they can be made for dosing (due to calcium sulfate and carbonate precipitation), but my guess is they leave them out without telling folks. That issue does not really concern a user either way since they will be dosing and controlling calcium and alkalinity anyway.
There are DIY recipes for this part 3, and my DIY two part recipes do include a third part. In my recipe, this third part is primarily designed to deal with magnesium and sulfate depletion, and is not focused on many other ions (such as bromide). They are cheaper, and many users have shown them adequate over the many years they have been used, especially when also doing water changes, but they are clearly less complete than the sodium chloride free salt mixes described above.
