How would you stock a fang tooth eel tank
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YOYOYOReefer
Valuable Member
Me too, i had a dragon that was super friendly for the first 6-7 years , then he went "Komodo" and would not let anyone else in the tank live. They are definately coolOf course things don't always go according to plan. Hopefully it goes better than you predict though
YOYOYOReefer
Valuable Member
10x3 x3 . Dragon, big snowflake, 5-6 groupers, several lions over the years, several triggers.
we had more aggression issues with the triggers than any of the others.
we had more aggression issues with the triggers than any of the others.
YOYOYOReefer
Valuable Member
at least 15 years ago my kids were small
Ah! Too long for fine details I suppose =) Well if you can think of anything you remember doing "right" or "wrong" I would greatly appreciate the advice before I take the plunge and learn from my own experiences. And perhaps anything in the way of what you remember about feedings and how you did it.
YOYOYOReefer
Valuable Member
mainly resist urges to overfeed, and dont feed freshwater fish to marine predators. plan a big skimmer, like a tall quad beckett for big tanks. have lids that lock down.
I would consider the harlequin tusk too risky to be with fang tooth eels. The body shape of wrasse;s are just too tempting, I would stick to broad bodied fish. The tusk is quick, but not like the groupers, and is smaller in overall size.
Don't know of you've read through this thread, you may find some useful info.
www.reef2reef.com
Eel Prepper
Eels and lions have alot in common; I have seen many posts lately concerning eels, so I thought I would pass on some information that I have learned over the years. !st off, know your source, do not get an eel from a source that runs copper in their system. Eels have sensitivity to copper...
www.reef2reef.com
Why do you want to use pvc, just asking, some prefer to use it, I personally do not. A dragon eel will get to 3" diameter, ideally an eel needs to be able to turn around in the pvc, or they will not use it. I did use use pvc for ribbon eels and they seemed to like it. I have never used pvc for a larger eel or helped anyone else build an eel tank using it, but I'm thinking more like 4". I do know people that have used it and the eel doesn't use it and it's just an eyesore. If you can use it and effective conseal it, it can be used to support rockwork. Some don't mind the pvc and have tanks with exposed pvc, just not my look. These eels are strong so rockwork does need to be designed effectively, tunnels and openings large enough. You can also cement rocks together, I can't remember a good brand to use. I've never had a problem with a collapse, but it does happen. Maybe search around for some other eel builds.
I have never set up an eel tank (probably evident from my plethora of questions - happy to be spoken to as a novice
) and I read that it was ideal to use PVC - something about it fully enclosing them and making them feel more comfortable and being smooth it wouldn't injure them. It seemed to me that the pvc would prevent the eel from being able to move rocks since they would have to bend the pvc first. I would prefer not to use it as I am worried about it being seen. I was planning to secure the pvc and then stacking rocks over the pvc with a cave on both ends so that it could be completely hidden.Do you recommend just stacking the rocks so that there is a large hollow space for the eels to conceal themselves inside? I don't really have a feel for how strong they are - but I will be using large rocks (I would assume some are in the 15-30 lb each weight range) so I think it could be sturdy enough.
They don't have pvc in the wild. To be safe, inspect and grind down any sharp edges. Start with your large heavy pieces as a base and create a runway of sorts, wide enough to allow them to turn around in spots. Have the whole length of the back wall as a tunnel and at least 4 openings, one at each end and openings into the front of the tank. Using your next heaviest rocks as cover for the tunnels, you can use reef cement or not, I've done both. You get into trouble when the tunnels are too tight, they will try and squeeze through, and that's what causes a collapse. They will usually choose an opening to call their den where they can observe the entire tank.
They are very strong, the lids will also need to be secured with clamps or weights, they can push right through even the heaviest of standard glass lids.
They are very strong, the lids will also need to be secured with clamps or weights, they can push right through even the heaviest of standard glass lids.
@lion king how would you go about order of introduction? I am planning start with the smallest/youngest specimens I can get - hopefully they will be better tank mates is my thinking without the bad habits of an adult - is this a good idea?
What is your stock list looking like. You would want to start with your least aggressive first. Finding the smallest eels is always best, start them out in an observation tank, for the eels you are looking at, a 40B is a good choice. The dragon eel mostly always comes in pretty large, and for the most part you are going to get a pretty descent size banana eel as well. In the observation you keep them long enough to make sure they have no internal parasites, and teach them to eat the food you are offering on your routine. They will get accustomed to eating dead food from tongs or a feeding stick, whichever method you prefer.
Setting up your display with the den and tunnel routes for the eels, the eels are going to bang out their territory regardless, they will evict the triggers or whatever else you decide to put in the tank. Don't plan to get small tank mates and think you are going to find a small eel, that doesn;t always happen, and with the 2 I mentioned, it;s unlikely. So there's the conundrum. Appropriate sizing is the priority.
There's going to be angst and risk either way, at whatever stage the eels go in. Always be careful introducing fish after the eels go in, stick to your feeding method and routine. Really the most important thing is choosing the proper tank mates with enough attitude and sizing, sizing, sizing; as well as training before introduction to the dt, and sticking to your routine.
Setting up your display with the den and tunnel routes for the eels, the eels are going to bang out their territory regardless, they will evict the triggers or whatever else you decide to put in the tank. Don't plan to get small tank mates and think you are going to find a small eel, that doesn;t always happen, and with the 2 I mentioned, it;s unlikely. So there's the conundrum. Appropriate sizing is the priority.
There's going to be angst and risk either way, at whatever stage the eels go in. Always be careful introducing fish after the eels go in, stick to your feeding method and routine. Really the most important thing is choosing the proper tank mates with enough attitude and sizing, sizing, sizing; as well as training before introduction to the dt, and sticking to your routine.
@lion king
This is where I have settled depending on timing and availability. Mostly choices from this thread picking out suitable tankmates for the two eels. I also considered a ribbon or snowflake eel but not sure how they would fit in mix - two I hated to leave out was a dogface puffer (this one cost S.O. approval factor =P) and a volitan but from what I gather they are 100% a meal at some point or another? Is there anything else you would recommend as awesome fun that I've missed?
I've got 20 gallon and 55 gallon tanks/containers available to ensure everything is healthy before they make it into the display system.
The only thing I've not been able to wrap my head around with this style tank is what I will do when pests inevitably pop up - like aiptasia or whatever - since the typical CUC wouldn't make it long enough to matter.
After reading your previous post it seems like my best course of action would be to try to order damsels and "small" eels and see what I get. And then order the rest at appropriate size as they become available to me while making sure the eels are fed their fill before introducing new additions. Is this the best plan?
This is where I have settled depending on timing and availability. Mostly choices from this thread picking out suitable tankmates for the two eels. I also considered a ribbon or snowflake eel but not sure how they would fit in mix - two I hated to leave out was a dogface puffer (this one cost S.O. approval factor =P) and a volitan but from what I gather they are 100% a meal at some point or another? Is there anything else you would recommend as awesome fun that I've missed?
I've got 20 gallon and 55 gallon tanks/containers available to ensure everything is healthy before they make it into the display system.
The only thing I've not been able to wrap my head around with this style tank is what I will do when pests inevitably pop up - like aiptasia or whatever - since the typical CUC wouldn't make it long enough to matter.
After reading your previous post it seems like my best course of action would be to try to order damsels and "small" eels and see what I get. And then order the rest at appropriate size as they become available to me while making sure the eels are fed their fill before introducing new additions. Is this the best plan?
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Very nice!!! As far as pest go, start off with the clean dry rock many sell now or something like caribsea liferock, whatever you like. Use biospira to cycle and your dry rock is instantly live without the pest. You can still use things like snails and hermits, they will disappear, but no biggie, spend $20 now and then to keep some in. Sneak them after bedtime and some will survive. It also gives the triggers some enrichment and a snack. No shrimp though, an expensive meal as soon as they hit the water. Urchins are possible, but don't add until they have something to eat. The damsels idea is more for eel only tanks, to provide some color and movement, in your tank unless you are interested in keeping them, there really is no point. The groupers will likely dispatch them quickly, and if the triggers decide to make a snack out them, it ain;t pretty.
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