I'm an idiot.

jay06705

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So three hours ago I noticed water on the wood floors, return line was leaking badly.
Does anyone live near Waterbury CT that knows how to correctly plumb a return line into tank? Made the idiotic mistake of trying jb water weld and then silicone. Let everything cure and leak is worse! I'll gladly pay for your time. Right now I have an mp40 for flow and a heater, I don't have another tank big enough to move everything.
 

JoshH

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Okay you have flow and heat so you are good for now, try and put the MP as close to the surface as you can to get the most surface agitation.

What size tank is it?
Any pictures of your return plumbing?
 
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jay06705

jay06705

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Right now it's just a Frankenstein affair, when trying to remove the bulkhead the bottom pipe cracked had to use some flexible tubing. I was just in panic mode.
 

JoshH

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Right now it's just a Frankenstein affair, when trying to remove the bulkhead the bottom pipe cracked had to use some flexible tubing. I was just in panic mode.

Can you snap a picture?

What plumbing supplies do you have on hand? Realistically your setup should be fine until you can get to a store and get the right materials...
 

Mechagodzilla

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Yup, seeing what we are working with will make the whole job easier.
 

BighohoReef

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I agree you’ll be okay with your wavemaker and heater for a few days. Pictures speak a thousand words. It’ll give us a good idea of what you’re dealing with. Hopefully your close enough to a HW store that cares all the plumbing you’ll need.

Share measurements as well if you can.
 
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jay06705

jay06705

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Well to add insult to injury, this is the stupidity I committed while in panic mode. As you can see I'm not a plumber.

20200706_012633.jpg
 
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jay06705

jay06705

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I used what came with the tank, it's an sca 50 gallon cube pnp, I'm excellent with tech, plumbing not so much
 

BighohoReef

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Yes on my nano tank drilled glass on the back and plumbed to a home made sump. I didn’t use the right sealant... similar issue failed and dumped about 10g before I caught it.
 

BighohoReef

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I’m looking at your plumbing setup for a sca 50
 
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jay06705

jay06705

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Thanks, I didn't expect to actually hear from anyone until morning, I really appreciate everyone's help.
 

3D Reefin'

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One thing to note, if you stop using your sump and go with the power head method for your DT, make sure you completely drain the sump and replace the water with new/clean water BEFORE restarting your return pump, only if the water in the sump has been sitting for a while without circulation.

If the water sits in your sump without circulating for prolonged periods of time, it can go bad and when you restart your return pump, you can "poison" you tank.

Made this mistake once, return pump was off for about a day, water went bad, luckily was able to save most of the corals and fish.
 

stephj03

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One thing to note, if you stop using your sump and go with the power head method for your DT, make sure you completely drain the sump and replace the water with new/clean water BEFORE restarting your return pump, only if the water in the sump has been sitting for a while without circulation.

If the water sits in your sump without circulating for prolonged periods of time, it can go bad and when you restart your return pump, you can "poison" you tank.

Made this mistake once, return pump was off for about a day, water went bad, luckily was able to save most of the corals and fish.
this.

If using flexible.lines,. Disconnect your return line from you tank and have the return pump cycle water in the sump.
 

JoshH

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Well to add insult to injury, this is the stupidity I committed while in panic mode. As you can see I'm not a plumber.

20200706_012633.jpg

So from the looks of things you're going to need a new bulkhead, running flexible PVC in your case might also be an easier fix long term. Did you want to stick with the rigid PVC?

Also I would try and remove as much of that putty before it sets permanently or that bulkhead might be a real pain to remove..
 

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