Is it me or do all new tanks experience algae issues?

[mr.reeferman]

my pygmy dwarf angel took care of mine real fast i mean like a weeks time he cleared every rock

 

[brandon429]

key takeaway Harold I'm reading and alluded to in my linked thread

with no grazers, you'd still have gha right? I think there's inherent risk in driving nutrient levels below ideals to make starvation the only preventative. passions can flare from these core tenets of reefing in threads, so they are among the most fun threads.

It's that little extra past basic good enough nutrients where techniques vary greatly. so many tank variances exist in just this little gap area, most know to reach for good nutrients but past that, and even for many with a great cuc, the troubles don't stop until targeting occurs.

In the end we just want a dandelion free lawn

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

It does add to the statement that nutrients don't always cause algae blooms. In some of my old setups they had high nutrient levels and still no algae blooms. .

Because they need nutrients AND other factors (trace elements such as iron, places to grow without predation, a source of algae spores or however they reproduce, light, etc.). Take any individual one away and you do not get algae, even if you have all of the others.

It is certainly true that you can have high phosphate and nitrate without an algae problem, but that means one of the other factors is limiting the growth.

However, that does not take away from the fact that reducing any one of them (including nutrients) sufficiently will eliminate a problem algae that does exist.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I think that ATS/refuge users could def be gaining an allelopathic benefit by using that much plant...nice call.

Why do you think that?

 

[WetWhistle]

Because they need nutrients AND other factors (trace elements such as iron, places to grow without predation, a source of algae spores or however they reproduce, light, etc.). Take any individual one away and you do not get algae, even if you have all of the others.

It is certainly true that you can have high phospathe and nitrate without an algae problem, but that means one of the other factors is limiting the growth.

However, that does not take away from the fact that reducing any one of them (including nutrients) sufficiently will eliminate a problem algae that does exist.

I totally agree. I like to do the multi prong approach and take away a few of the things needed for algae to grow. Limit the available nutrients and keep something that eats them.

 

[brandon429]

*the reason I suspect allelopathic help, just a guess, was for the times ATS systems said they cured dinoflagellates compared to those using GFO that didnt, and the gfo having a known action on nutrients vs the ranging confounding aspects of phytochemical interactions. one form of nutrient restriction ought to be able to show what another does, imo.

We need to start an analysis about nutrient only cures to get to the bottom of the claims, i have an idea

for the test link below
using gfo and bio pellets and water changes would export for them the top three elements said to be at play in a nutrient managed algae free tank. (Fe N P and they are advised to export all detritus for the Po)

 

[brandon429]

http://reef2reef.com/threads/how-do-you-get-rid-of-bubble-algae.174234/page-3



first test, nutrient restriction makes the headache go away

these valonia challenges are perfect for the claims here. Chlorophyta=win by nutrient restriction.



they should have no less than 4 nutrient pathways they can take based on trending here so far. You guys hop in and fix these tanks, don't stop posting now that a direct request for action is right exactly there.









The large ATS threads have several valonia cures in them, that's a fair recommend to start and they allow the current sinks, if any- to stay in place, you simply add the scrubber.
B

 

[Harold Green]

brandon I hope everyone else is understanding you but I haven't a clue. It's like listening to someone speak in a foreign language. I'm sure you're an expert in what you're trying to explain but you need to dumb it down so someone who's had reef tanks for thirty years can understand. I'm having flashbacks from thirty years ago of the ultimate warrior doing an interview and not having any idea what the point he was making was.

 

[brandon429]

edited out things to shorten up.

Those who are up to the task need to hop right in and get those tanks cleaned up.

Its a request for action not just links and personal tank testimony. wasn't directing it at you Harold but if you'd like to try they need the help.







Ps
I am friends with everyone here don't take pressing for the sake of science as overly harsh we are just method debating.

its fair to ask for nutrient controls demo on valonia tanks and yes its harder to fix when you havent had control from the start, but that's what sets the bar so high. we get that standard all the time.

Valonia is specifically part of the algae option that can arise during the uglies by import

to me its directly related to this thread, we get to see now how easy it is to fix when you leave it in place. I'll remove any reference to the challenge instantly if anyone requests but its really the way we might highlight just how hard it is to work with tanks not in your living room, this is good fair tough science imo. I took these kinds of challenges, easily searched, and not all valonia tanks responded but I got some after pics and several were valonia cures who acted early.



B

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

*the reason I suspect allelopathic help, just a guess, was for the times ATS systems said they cured dinoflagellates compared to those using GFO that didnt, and the gfo having a known action on nutrients vs the ranging confounding aspects of phytochemical interactions. one form of nutrient restriction ought to be able to show what another does, imo.
)

Of course, an ATS reduces nitrogen (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) in the water and GFO does not. Maybe they become nitrogen limited, as is true for many algae species in the ocean..

Also, an ATS may raise pH, which can limit CO2 availability to dinos, hence the apparent fix that sometimes works for dinos by raising pH.

 

[brandon429]

I am impressed with overall ATS threads based on the feedback of the posters, Adey was onto something~

its not fun to have to change water all the time in my reefs and perhaps one day a micro 3x3 inch scrubber might pay off lol that would be neat. Ive never seen how they might work in the small world of pico reefs we are still doing the caveman full wc method

 

[Harold Green]

I remember having a tank years ago with bubble algae. At the time I read up on the issue and one suggestion stands out. If you try to remove it physically it's important to have a siphon running as you break any bubbles because the spores will settle all over the tank. I also think that variety of algae is a pretty good sink for refuse collecting under it compounding the problem. Not sure if you recommended this or not but at the first sign of bubbles it's time to take action regardless of method. I've had green mitrax crabs and after much watching I did see one tear up one bubble. I don't think they work well as a control. More than likely if you have a truly bad infestation of bubbles I'd recommend tearing the tank down and doing a thorough cleaning to correct the problems inherent in your tank. I only suggest this when your gravel bed has become a nitrate factory and your live rock is too clogged up to work. I'm including a photo of a 75 with bubble algae coexisting with soft corals that seem to be happy under the same conditions.

 

[Harold Green]

 

[brandon429]

So glad you posted, this thread shouldnt die down. Whens the last eye workout any of us had anyway this is fun

excellent tank it looks exactly like cayman brac. same coloration, density, stunning. i like sand beds i use them too, they provide food for the tank via gametes and vital space provisions
Thats a very nice tank

all the extra things you mentioned about act fast, prices to pay if you dont, extremes of correction required to fix, thats my total stance, many invaders require an action.






The balance attained in your tank is what posters in that valonia thread want to know how to get, they need ways to get it either under control or gone.
I'll take any of them should someone want to see how well we do with targeting.

 

[leptang]

I read somewhere that one of the problems with algae in a new tank is because there isn't any other organisms on the surface of rock that blocks the growth of algae.
I've seen this for myself in my established tank, no algae grows on my rocks but a day later after cleaning the glass algae starts to grow on the glass.

 

[leptang]

I read somewhere that one of the problems with algae in a new tank is because there isn't any other organisms on the surface of rock that blocks the growth of algae.
I've seen this for myself in my established tank, no algae grows on my rocks but a day later after cleaning the glass algae starts to grow on the glass.

I also get hair algae on my power heads after cleaning them. Many marine life forms have a anti algae immunity, because algae is one of the fastest growing lifeforms in the ocean and can take over fast

 

[Harold Green]

Not to jump around but I have a small tank with hair algae and rather than tear it down I've added three large long spined urchins. Be interesting to see if they offer a control. At this point they seem to be more interested in scraping the red coralline algae off the back glass of the tank. I had to remove them from my main display because they kept breaking the frags loose from the rocks. I'll give them credit though, when they work over a rock it's bare of algae before they leave it.

 

[brandon429]

Yes I have heard they are raspers that leave marks! I'd take a little tuxedo next time I see one. Wonder if they can just be spot fed if there isnt a lot of algae, surely they like Cyclopeeze like any other reef animal