Is this gap okay?

Jake_the_reefer

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My wife just noticed she can get her fingernail under the center of our inovative marine 20g tank that has a leveling mat built in. Is this gap okay or should I add 1/8th of an inch of neoprene underneath?
The edges are tight and we can't get a fingernail under. But the center of the tank both front and back there is a gap

she marked where she stops being able to fit her fingernail underneath on the left and right side

Messenger_creation_03a7eb99-d566-44a8-9cf2-bf61a1a98c41.jpeg
 

Ben's Pico Reefing

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Any gap under a tank can be an issue. Smaller tanks usual aren't as High of a risk.
I doubt the tank is boing inward but never know lol

Adding a shim can add more stress especially if it adds pressure to the center or other part of tank I would see if the bed is caused by the table or counter. I would determine the cause first. If from dip in table I would add support or replace.

If it is caused due to something not leveled, I would add another matt or thicker. Or again replace.

You might get away with it for size but I wouldn't risk.
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Any gap under a tank can be an issue. Smaller tanks usual aren't as High of a risk.
I doubt the tank is boing inward but never know lol

Adding a shim can add more stress especially if it adds pressure to the center or other part of tank I would see if the bed is caused by the table or counter. I would determine the cause first. If from dip in table I would add support or replace.

If it is caused due to something not leveled, I would add another matt or thicker. Or again replace.

You might get away with it for size but I wouldn't risk.
Think quarter inch neoprene would be too much?
 

Ben's Pico Reefing

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Think quarter inch neoprene would be too much?
Is it due to weakness in the table too or is the top just curved? Good way to tell is to push under the table and push to see if it will go flush. If pushing up allows the tank in center to sit more flush, I would just add a brace. If it doesn't move or sit flush, you can try thicker but this is out of my expertise at this point as I would fix it the counter. If it's a tank issue it's time to replace in my opinion. Shim should only be used to level feet of the stand.

People add cushion between tank and top for vibration reduction or bumps from tank or stand since both hard surfaces and glass has pressure. Also helps smooth out or reduce and small bumps or grit that may have gotten between. Matts shouldn't be used to level a tank.
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Is it due to weakness in the table too or is the top just curved? Good way to tell is to push under the table and push to see if it will go flush. If pushing up allows the tank in center to sit more flush, I would just add a brace. If it doesn't move or sit flush, you can try thicker but this is out of my expertise at this point as I would fix it the counter. If it's a tank issue it's time to replace in my opinion. Shim should only be used to level feet of the stand.

People add cushion between tank and top for vibration reduction or bumps from tank or stand since both hard surfaces and glass has pressure. Also helps smooth out or reduce and small bumps or grit that may have gotten between. Matts shouldn't be used to level a tank.
Appears to me its a deformity in the stand. Pushing from the bottom does have any flex. It's pretty thick too so I would be shocked if it is flexing. I'm going the route of adding a sheet of 1/4 nice plywood to level it out.
 

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Matts shouldn't be used to level a tank.
might be worth repeating yet again lol

FWIW, there is enough “give” vs rigidity in marine plywood to make a decent leveling transition between two rigid surfaces… caveat being water protection challenges..
not ideal but in certain applications might be worth considering

I have built a LOT of aquarium stands
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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If someone can chime in. I'm going to take out all the water of the 20g tank and leave the sand +7lbs of rock 5lbs of wood in the tank. I'm going to use suction cups rated for 300lbs each and lift the tank by the side panels and front panel. Is this okay? I'd hate to tear the entire aquascape out and remove all the sand. But someone stop me if I'm about to go about this the wrong way.
 

javajaws

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Appears to me its a deformity in the stand. Pushing from the bottom does have any flex. It's pretty thick too so I would be shocked if it is flexing. I'm going the route of adding a sheet of 1/4 nice plywood to level it out.

Can you clarify what you intend here? A sheet of 1/4" ply just added between the tank and stand will level nothing. That ply will flex and mostly not compress any meaningful amount with only a 20g on top of it. Also, "level" as you are using it to refer to your original problem might be misleading/ambiguous - it seems you more intend to "fill" the gap so that the surface is flat and not necessarily change the level in any given direction. IMO I think you were originally going in the right direction with an extra 1/8" of neoprene.
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Can you clarify what you intend here? A sheet of 1/4" ply just added between the tank and stand will level nothing. That ply will flex and mostly not compress any meaningful amount with only a 20g on top of it. Also, "level" as you are using it to refer to your original problem might be misleading/ambiguous - it seems you more intend to "fill" the gap so that the surface is flat and not necessarily change the level in any given direction. IMO I think you were originally going in the right direction with an extra 1/8" of neoprene.
I'm sorry let me clarify. No it's not to level the tank the1/4 plywood sheet is going to create a flatter surface for the aquarium to sit on. Basically I just want to do whatever keeps this tank from busting. I cannot replace the stand. I have to do what I can to make the surface flat
 
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exnisstech

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Are you using an IM stand also? The issue is most likely the stand. I can't see the tank not being flat but that's just my logic and it could be flawed. I just set up a waterbox 84x30x25 and it came with a mat pre-installed so it must me something some manufacturers are doing.
 

exnisstech

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No it's not to level the tank the1/4 plywood sheet is going to create a flatter surface for the aquarium to sit on. Basically I just want to do whatever keeps this tank from busting. I cannot replace the stand. I have to do what I can to make the surface flat
If the base, which is the stand is not flat adding a piece of 1/4" plywood will not correct that. IMO
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Are you using an IM stand also? The issue is most likely the stand. I can't see the tank not being flat but that's just my logic and it could be flawed. I just set up a waterbox 84x30x25 and it came with a mat pre-installed so it must me something some manufacturers are doing.
It's the stand. It's a solid oak stand and the top of said stand has a slight dip in the surface so the dip in the surface causes a very small gap between the bottom of the tank and the bottom of the aquarium. My thought proccess is to use a sheet of plywood to create a flat surface for the aquarium to sit on. I also have neoprene I can put under the plywood to fill that gap.

I only have 1/4 inch neoprene on hand so if I need thinner I would need to order it.
I could try and just do neoprene if needed. But it's a pretty decent gap that needs to be filled.
I just need some sort of solution until I can get a more appropriate stand. I don't want to risk the tank breaking while I'm waiting on getting a new stand
 

BeanAnimal

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Ambiguity in wording is causing confusion.

“Level” is being used where “flat” or “planar” would maybe more clear.

For a 20g tank, a “fingernail” gap in a spot or two are not going to pose an issue.

A “leveling” mat or dense foam will offer some relief for point loads and that is why they are used, especially on tanks without bottom trim.

If the tank rocks from side to side or corner to corner then you have a problem. If not small gaps in support are simply not an issue.

Adding a layer of plywood will likely reduce the areas of missing contact as the plywood will not fully conform to the underlying stand. A thin layer of compressible material will enhance the effect. However, I am not sure if any of it is needed in this case.
 

exnisstech

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It's the stand. It's a solid oak stand and the top of said stand has a slight dip in the surface

I went through this years ago in freshwater. I'm a slow learner and it took two tanks cracking the bottom before I replaced the stand. IMO the stand can be out of level a little but the top has to be flat or bad things can happen.
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Ambiguity in wording is causing confusion.

“Level” is being used where “flat” or “planar” would maybe more clear.

For a 20g tank, a “fingernail” gap in a spot or two are not going to pose an issue.

A “leveling” mat or dense foam will offer some relief for point loads and that is why they are used, especially on tanks without bottom trim.

If the tank rocks from side to side or corner to corner then you have a problem. If not small gaps in support are simply not an issue.
No rocking or moving. Here's a crappy sketch of the situation. This is top down. The areas where I put red is where there is a gap between the tank and stand. Its the entire middle of the tank. With a few inches on each side touching the stand. And I'm sorry I mean flat/planar not level

Screenshot_20240430_143443_Samsung Notes.jpg
 

javajaws

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Use something compressable like the 1/8 neoprene you originally thought about. 1/4" ply isn't likely to compress much to make the surface any flatter than it already is under a 20g tank.
 

BeanAnimal

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What is with width of the non contact area?
 
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Jake_the_reefer

Jake_the_reefer

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Use something compressable like the 1/8 neoprene you originally thought about. 1/4" ply isn't likely to compress much to make the surface any flatter than it already is under a 20g tank.
I'll have to order 1/8 neoprene. I only have 1/4 neoprene on hand and feel that would be too thick and could cause issues
 

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