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Depends. If your p04 its very very high, use somthing like lanthinum chloride to bring it down slowly. Gfo has the potential to be dangerous but its a good method to follow if you indeed have small rising p04 problems. Btw i keep my nitrate between 5 and 25, w.e floats my boat at the timeIf phosphates become an issue do you think that running GFO is a good solution to reducing them or would you recommend another method?
If phosphates become an issue do you think that running GFO is a good solution to reducing them or would you recommend another method?
My NO3 is <1ppm (Nyos kit) and my phosphates are <0.009ppm (<9ppb, Hanna ULR Checker). I got there with very limited feeding, carbon dosing and probably over skimming. It took a while before I saw my LPS and SPS shriveling up or dulling in color with very little growth. Also, I elevated my HCO3- levels to 200 ppm CaCO3. Essentially, I had an Ultra Low Nutrient system with higher HCO3-. I don't recommend it.
I'm now trying to get my NO3- and PO4--- higher. I'm feeding a lot more, using amino acids and reef chilli. I only skim at night now and I've totally stopped carbon dosing (vinegar). But, the two levels have not moved up. However, with all that feeding, the fish are fatter, coral color has returned and my LPS's have puffier polyps. Even my goniopora stokes are coming back to life.
Bottom line: be careful about going too far into the ULNS range. Hobbiest meters can't tell you how close you are to zero. I guess they are only good at indicating how far, in grosser differences, we are above zero.
Why is that?Just a heads up for when u start raising your phosphate, that if your Hanna checker is reading 9ppb it comes out to .o28ppm.
I think I got it. M.w. Of P is 31. M.W of PO4 is 95, or 3.06 times larger. If my Hanna ULR reads 9ppb-P that equates to 3.06 times that as PO4---, or 27.6 ppb-PO4 (0.028 ppm-PO4)Just a heads up for when u start raising your phosphate, that if your Hanna checker is reading 9ppb it comes out to .o28ppm.
Just a heads up for when u start raising your phosphate, that if your Hanna checker is reading 9ppb it comes out to .o28ppm.
Okay, I have a question for you (or anyone out there) about the Hanna ULR (ppb-Pi) Checker [HI 736].I use the Hanna phosphorus checker, which is the one that gives results in ppb. I use this chart when testing to convert.
I describe my method to use the hanna ulr phosphorus checker in my thread here comparing multiple po4 test kits. I get pretty consistant and reliable results for me.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/p...s-pro-salifert-hanna-checkers-seachem.222628/
Is that a 8 bulb ati light fixture?My Nitrates are 20ppm as of today. A few months ago it was 40. No issues its been like this for 3 months. Phosphates are 0. My sps's never looked so good.
many corals depend more on light and alk than they do on food in the water column.
All this is to say that we can run the assay as described followed by a re-calibrate and re-read using the second cuvette[...]without having to worry about bias from using a second cuvette to calibrate.
How do you prevent nuisance algae growth with such high nitrate levels? thanksMy Nitrates are 20ppm as of today. A few months ago it was 40. No issues its been like this for 3 months. Phosphates are 0. My sps's never looked so good.