Kessil A360we schedule?

DT Prime

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IMG_1483376783.361807.jpg

I just took this for current reference. There use to much less color on the outer rim but things are looking up. Decent polyp extension as well.

Sorry saw you posted the tank at the beginning, one 360WE over a 40 is probably on the low side for SPS from what I've been told- I'm running two on a 55 and frankly wouldn't mind a third haha. If it's low in the tank and in a bit of a crevice then too much light seems unlikely. Alk over 10dKh by chance?
 
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Jrco226

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I try to keep my all stable around 9. When I posted this I hadnt had any noticeable alk swings. I do two 5 gallon water changes weekly to keep my level stable and my tank clean.
 

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I try to keep my all stable around 9. When I posted this I hadnt had any noticeable alk swings. I do two 5 gallon water changes weekly to keep my level stable and my tank clean.
Just guessing then but I'd look at flow first and then nutrients, my monti's are all out in the open and get lots of flow and I also feed a lot including a variety of coral specific foods and use Reef Plus amino/vitamins. If you can maybe try moving him to some place a bit more open?

Also here's an older BRS video on Kessil schedules, they don't hold at 100% intensity but do get up to it, as well as higher color. I have to think it's something other than too much light that's killing peoples corals at 50% or lower intensity...
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/Programming-your-Kessil-LED-with-the-Spectral-Controller/

Edit: reason I asked about Alk was I had mine up over 10 for a while and while growth was good colors faded out or changed
 
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AllSignsPointToFish

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Just guessing then but I'd look at flow first and then nutrients, my monti's are all out in the open and get lots of flow and I also feed a lot including a variety of coral specific foods and use Reef Plus amino/vitamins. If you can maybe try moving him to some place a bit more open?

Also here's an older BRS video on Kessil schedules, they don't hold at 100% intensity but do get up to it, as well as higher color. I have to think it's something other than too much light that's killing peoples corals at 50% or lower intensity...
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/view/Programming-your-Kessil-LED-with-the-Spectral-Controller/

Edit: reason I asked about Alk was I had mine up over 10 for a while and while growth was good colors faded out or changed
You know, Red Sea mentions in their reef care program that you typically either have rapid growth with duller coloration or bright colors with slower growth. Maybe the color change is just due to rapid growth?
 
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Jrco226

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You know, Red Sea mentions in their reef care program that you typically either have rapid growth with duller coloration or bright colors with slower growth. Maybe the color change is just due to rapid growth?

I'm a rookie but I wouldn't consider it rapid growth. I only have one mp10 on the 40g maybe I need to invest in another a mess with the lights a little more.
 

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You know, Red Sea mentions in their reef care program that you typically either have rapid growth with duller coloration or bright colors with slower growth. Maybe the color change is just due to rapid growth?
This is definitely the case at least unless you are much more experienced than I, and since I love them for the colors I'm fine with slowing them down a bit to appreciate them while they grow. I also stumbled across this article yesterday that indicated higher dKH is preferable when running higher nutrient systems while lower is best when running ULNS. I don't think my system would be considered an ULNS but it's close and I'm at a steady alk of around 9, so middle ground seems to be working out for now.
"When people kept few fish and hence had low nutrient levels, low to almost zero levels for nitrate and phosphate they preferred lower alkalinity levels of 7.5-9, while if they kept lots of fish and had higher nutrient levels, NO3 at .05 and higher and PO3 at .03 and higher they tended to recommend alkalinity levels of 10-12. "
https://reefbuilders.com/2015/09/19/grow-colorul-sps-corals/

I'm a rookie but I wouldn't consider it rapid growth. I only have one mp10 on the 40g maybe I need to invest in another a mess with the lights a little more.
Also a rookie but if SPS are your goal I would for sure get at least another MP10 and place it so that it hits the spots the current one doesn't. I'm running two MP40's on a 55gal which Ecotech's flow calculator will say is too much even running both at the lowest setting, however I have them placed fairly high in the tank so LPS doesn't get blasted and they are working out great. I run them up to about 50% and switch between reef crest and NTS modes throughout the day, everybody seems happy.
 

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This is definitely the case at least unless you are much more experienced than I, and since I love them for the colors I'm fine with slowing them down a bit to appreciate them while they grow. I also stumbled across this article yesterday that indicated higher dKH is preferable when running higher nutrient systems while lower is best when running ULNS. I don't think my system would be considered an ULNS but it's close and I'm at a steady alk of around 9, so middle ground seems to be working out for now.
"When people kept few fish and hence had low nutrient levels, low to almost zero levels for nitrate and phosphate they preferred lower alkalinity levels of 7.5-9, while if they kept lots of fish and had higher nutrient levels, NO3 at .05 and higher and PO3 at .03 and higher they tended to recommend alkalinity levels of 10-12. "
https://reefbuilders.com/2015/09/19/grow-colorul-sps-corals/


Also a rookie but if SPS are your goal I would for sure get at least another MP10 and place it so that it hits the spots the current one doesn't. I'm running two MP40's on a 55gal which Ecotech's flow calculator will say is too much even running both at the lowest setting, however I have them placed fairly high in the tank so LPS doesn't get blasted and they are working out great. I run them up to about 50% and switch between reef crest and NTS modes throughout the day, everybody seems happy.
Nitrate at 0.05 ppm is not high. Maybe you meant 0.5 ppm?
 

DT Prime

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Nitrate at 0.05 ppm is not high. Maybe you meant 0.5 ppm?
It's a quote from the article :) I've always found that super low Nitrate level strange though, especially since most people seem to use common kits and salifert doesn't go below .2ppm. Mine actually is closer to 5pm haha, seems to be fine so far though though. Don't want to speak for him but Adam at BattleCorals seems to be a big proponent of not worrying too much about keeping super low nitrate/phosphate levels, assuming everything is healthy otherwise, and after seeing his pieces I'm inclined to agree.
 

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It's a quote from the article :) I've always found that super low Nitrate level strange though, especially since most people seem to use common kits and salifert doesn't go below .2ppm. Mine actually is closer to 5pm haha, seems to be fine so far though though. Don't want to speak for him but Adam at BattleCorals seems to be a big proponent of not worrying too much about keeping super low nitrate/phosphate levels, assuming everything is healthy otherwise, and after seeing his pieces I'm inclined to agree.
I'm inclined to agree too. Until recently, I've run my nitrates around zero, but phosphates are always 0.02-0.04 ppm. However, I keep my alkalinity at 10-12 dKH, so I have recently started slowly raising my nitrate levels.
 

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I'm inclined to agree too. Until recently, I've run my nitrates around zero, but phosphates are always 0.02-0.04 ppm. However, I keep my alkalinity at 10-12 dKH, so I have recently started slowly raising my nitrate levels.

Be interested to hear how it works out! I'm about to go the other way I think and pull my GFO and try the red sea NoPox/coral colors regiment for a month or two and see if reduced nitrate does anything appreciable, and if it's worth the manual dosing.
 

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Be interested to hear how it works out! I'm about to go the other way I think and pull my GFO and try the red sea NoPox/coral colors regiment for a month or two and see if reduced nitrate does anything appreciable, and if it's worth the manual dosing.
I don't run GFO. I just manually dose a homemade version of Nitrate-Phosphate X every day. Honestly, I didn't find a whole lot of help out of the Reef Energy or Coral Colors supplements with the exception of the potassium/boron supplement for red corals.
 

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Started off around 50% and couldn't keep any sps, always stn from the base up. Now that I have them at 100% I even have an acro that was half white from the base up that is coming back to life.
 
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Jrco226

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Started off around 50% and couldn't keep any sps, always stn from the base up. Now that I have them at 100% I even have an acro that was half white from the base up that is coming back to life.

It's crazy that some say these lights are strong and they never go over 50% while others like loudog420 keep them at 100%
 

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Id rather run mine at 100% and keep them a little higher off the water and get a better spread. IMO buying a light and only running it at 50% is kinda like buying a Ferrari and only driving it 35 MPH.
 

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Hey everyone, I seen multiple threads with someone asking this question but never really getting straight answers. Currently I ramp up to 60%intensity and 50%color with the light 8" off the water. I have a IM Nuvo 40. My system has been up and running for about a year now. I have mostly LPS and a couple of SPS. My sunset monti has faded over the past few weeks. It's located a on the bottom quarter of the tank directly under the light. Any thoughts? Also what's everyone's schedule?
Good morning, I have been having the same issue. I also have a IM Nuvo 50 gallon with one Kessil A360we and can’t seem to get a good color and intensity schedule down!
The tank is mostly LPS and softies and a couple Monti frags.
Thanks for the advice
 

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