Lasses Dream Build

[Lasse]

This morning 0.7 mg/L NO3

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

I knew I always liked you for some reason. In addition to your extensive knowledge and wizardry, now I realize why: we have the same birthday! Wishing you a very happy birthday!

Happy Birthday yourself !!

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Happy birthday to both of yah! Especially you Lasse!

 

[Lowell Lemon]

If you stared you tank over would you change anything on design or equipment set up?

 

[Lasse]

If you stared you tank over would you change anything on design or equipment set up?

Only minor things. I have add two more streamers - not hided. Want to do that.

Yesterday or the day before I run out of ethanol. Today measurement 4.6 mg/L NO3

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

The history repeat itself. I was out of DOC without notice it and NO3 rise during a day. This morning is going down again. However - the down going is slower than the rise. I´ll think its highlighting the fact that DOC is very important for the denitrification rate in my system. It will as first step create oxygen free spots because the DOC added will speed up the growth of aerobic breakdown bacteria till the point that is no more available oxygen and force them to use NO3 as electron acceptor and DOC as electron donator. The spike in DOC dosing is because I have to fill the tube up again (its a long tube)

Sincerely Lasse

 

[taricha]

Lasse, just wanted to say thanks for this data. It's really educational.

 

[Lasse]

Data from today - 2.6 as NO3

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

In my case - I dose DOC in the plenum of my reversed flow DSB. I have a redox electrode in there too. As it is now with a rather high flow trough the plenum (the anoxic part of the DSB will be higher up in the bed) - oxygen levels is probably good. The redox is normally positive - around 300 mV which says that its normally an oxidative environment. I dose - for the moment 18 times a day * 1 ml. Interesting is to see how the Redox potential indicate more reducing environment directly after the dose (its als a good indication that the pump does its job ) In the same time - its a flow of oxygen rich water that rise the oxidation potential

Interesting is to see what happens when I dose a single dose of 15 ml

Normal chart - 2.8 today in mg/L NO3

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

Have not measured so much lately but did it yesterday and today. Yesterday - Hanna High NO3 checker shows 0 mg/L - NO3. Today (after lowing the ethanol with 50%) it shows 1 mg/L NO3 (high checker) and 2.4 mg/L for the Hanna Low NO3 checker

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

Last NO3 development

New Video



Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

When one of my clams died I suddenly got place for a new coral. It was a montipora spec that seems to be lilac more or less. Home in my aquarium - most of the coral is still "lilac" but the growth zones is different in my aquarium - green patches in the lilac colour

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Some pictures of fish and hermits too

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Sincerely Lasse

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[Lasse]

And a video



Sincerely Lasse

 

[jsker]

Hello Lasse

I wonder if you need to dose some potassium?

Great pictures, please do not tell me you took the pictures with a Kodak instamatic with a cube flash

 

[Lasse]

please do not tell me you took the pictures with a Kodak instamatic with a cube flash

Not so far away - I always use an advanced compact camera - Olympus Tough 6 . Its the king of compact cameras with many, many good features that´s perfect for aquarium photography. The best function is an adjustable automatic white balance. You just aim the camera to something white in the aquarium, some adjusting and the camera knows what it should see as white. It works when normal cameras just show up a blue hell.

According to potassium - I never dose that - I am morbidly afraid of getting high values - see here and forward

Sincerely Lasse

 

[jsker]

According to potassium - I never dose that - I am morbidly afraid of getting high values

I can see why you are Leary of dosing potassium. I was suggesting checking the potassium levels for the reason that if the blues and purples are light in color would because the potassium is low.

 

[Sam123]

Hi Lasse,
I couldn’t resist signing up to this forum just to congratulate you on your tank and journey. I haven’t got a tank and probably won’t, but I do find the subject fascinating reading & viewing (two years of just trawling threads and have read all of TMC ) as well as relaxing and informative. I adore the look of your tank (to me it resembles the scapes and biomes on planted tank forums, so natural and fresh looking - however, yours IS natural and not scraped and they’re CORALS (amazing). I think green corals are underrated- it is the colour of nature. More than that though, I couldn’t resist writing to you as I really admire the ‘holistic’ approach. Treating only when you need to, letting things settle, finding a balance between species and a synergy. I employ the same natural methods in keeping a dog in regards to diet and preemptive medicine. It’s taken 4-5 nights of absorbing your thread/tank build and I have enjoyed every minute (even though I got a bit lost on occasion! ). I have some questions , I understand why acclimating a fish in the refugium helps the fish acclimatise to the environment and feeding, but why do you think it helps lower aggression? (Does a less stressed fish invite less aggression ?) or do you think the other fish know it’s familiar somehow even though they haven’t seen it? I also have another query; considering, very early on, you noticed a huge relationship between water ‘box’ (tank) and terrestrial ‘box’ (room) in regards to CO2, have you not been tempted to expand on this further by tackling the interaction between environments? And measure if there is any difference?Has this ever been done (aside from paludariums, which isn’t the same thing)? A wall/room with specific plants near the tank would be my (inexperienced) suggestion. Obviously, CO2 would be an issue at night, so they would have to be of the CAM variety, love humidity and be cat safe. Just a suggestion. At any rate, you could buy your wife some nice plants…and I’m sure you could easily knock out an automated water/feeding schedule for them. One last thing, a few pages back there was some video with what looked like a yellow tang and a Banggai Cardinal…I don’t think they’re on your stock list (although it’s in Latin so I can’t be sure ) Is that your tank or am I mistaken? Or are you hiding your wife’s yellow tang? Anyway, sorry for the long post, Hope your clam is doing well in the big tank at work, I was sad for you when you had to move it, because you said earlier you were dreading it. Glad you got the little ‘un (blue one?) still though!

 

[Lasse]

but why do you think it helps lower aggression? (Does a less stressed fish invite less aggression ?) or do you think the other fish know it’s familiar somehow even though they haven’t seen it? I

In the late 70:ties and early 80:ties I deal a lot with aggressive east African mount brooding cichlids. They are very aggressive outside established groups and if - as we did - take out the females when they have fry in their mouths - you get in trouble if you try to establish new fish in the group or when you put back the females after a month. We run trial with placing the newcomers or the female in sight for the established group - did not get better. Once we was forced to use very small aquariums for the females - around 10 L. We start to do total WC with help of the water from the main aquarium every second day and when we put the females back - nema problema - it was like they never have been out from the aquarium. We run some test with total new speciements - had them in a separate aquarium out of sight for the main group. Did WC every second day with water from the main aquarium - and voila - when we try to establish the new members to the the existing group - it works very well. The only answer we had was that the smell was the same.

Yes I think that the smell play an important role in recognition-

what looked like a yellow tang and a Banggai Cardinal…

No - I have none of these in my present tank.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Lasse]

considering, very early on, you noticed a huge relationship between water ‘box’ (tank) and terrestrial ‘box’ (room) in regards to CO2, have you not been tempted to expand on this further by tackling the interaction between environments?

The air to the skimmer is taken from the outside but there is huge interface in the water surface that´s bring down carbon dioxid that not are consumed during night by my refugium (Light on during night) - The refugium is a little bit to small - it does something normally (the pH curve is around 0.1 higher when the refugium lights are on. In February - I run my refugium lamp between 21:00 - 9:00 - you can see the pH dip in the chart

Today - I switch of 10:00 and at that time the photosynthesis in the DT have start to "absorb" CO2 - no dip around 9_00 now - the small dip you see some days is earlier and probably caused of the fact that two persons have left their bed

Now to the plant issue. I do not think is a very good idea because I need the CO2 during day time. My corals are using more than the amount going down from the air during day time - During some time I switch air to the skimmer between day and night - maybe I should do it again. Its the air´s content during nighttime that´s problematic. The best way to handle this is probably to do a larger refugium - but there is no way I can do that

We have green plants - but also a cat that love to walk om the shelfs to the widows

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Sam123]

Ah. I think the ‘current’ tank explains it. I found the videos I was talking about on here that you posted in ‘21, but just noticed dates from some of the footage was earlier. I’m guessing your previous tank!