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At peak intensity of 100% I am getting right at or just shy of 30,000 lux directly under the light. Overall it averages 15,000-25,000 most of the rest of the surface. It will drop off to 8-10,000 at the far corners.
I actually feel like these are generous readings. I wouldn't expect it to be that high, even at 100%. I've been running 100% for at least a couple weeks now (maybe 3) and nothing has gotten upset. This is partially why I feel those numbers are generous, but maybe I'm wrong.
with one he should be in the 500 par range peak or slightly better at the top of the tank. spread would become the issue in different spots.How deep is this tank? I would almost guarantee that sps would be happier with 2 160 lights over a 360
So, I picked up a lux meter just to see what kind of readings I actually get as I felt the lux app for the iphone wasn't giving an accurate reading.
At peak intensity of 100% I am getting right at or just shy of 30,000 lux directly under the light. Overall it averages 15,000-25,000 most of the rest of the surface. It will drop off to 8-10,000 at the far corners.
I actually feel like these are generous readings. I wouldn't expect it to be that high, even at 100%. I've been running 100% for at least a couple weeks now (maybe 3) and nothing has gotten upset. This is partially why I feel those numbers are generous, but maybe I'm wrong.
So, with plenty of surface agitation and the light probably 10" off the water and my sps 5-6" below the surface of the water am I in the ballpark for successful sps?
getting back on track, did you wind up getting a handheld meter?
That fixture "should" be fine for that tank.
What are your nutrints? No Po
and can we see the corals your not happy with.
How deep is this tank? I would almost guarantee that sps would be happier with 2 160 lights over a 360
Id say your fine. More light or just slightly less nutrints. that's the balance. IMO IME. If it were a t5 or mh with no dimmer you would balance nutrints to the amount of light, now knowing you have enough light. Its the dimmer that becomes confusing to most I think.There are not corals I am unhappy with at this point, I just want to make sure I'm giving them what they need long term. No sps look bad, though perhaps colors could lighten a little, which suggests to me they could use more light.
yup. your on the right track.PO4 levels have been coming down as of late, so a little lower there wouldn't hurt, though they aren't bad as they sit, IME. NO3 could also be lower, but that seems to stay pretty consistent where it is, so I'm skeptical I can consistently lower it more as things stand now.
I am wondering if perhaps I should extend my lighting period a little, so that I can get a couple more hours at peak intensity.
Seems the upgrade to the 360 is probably at my discretion. May be fine as is, but upgrading wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing either.
I am starting to look into a larger tank as well, that once pulled together would most likely be the main focus for the sps rather than this small tank. So, it's also a matter of how much resources (i.e. money) to put into this tank to cater to the sps.
It'll show the kessils par at 2' and you can compare it to different lights they have listed.
http://www.aquaillumination.com/science/par.html
Hey, that's a handy little link. Thanks!
Ya I was looking at that a lot when I went to buy my light.
yes, you have better spread. thats a good thing.Swapped out the 160 for a 360w just a little bit ago. Took new lux readings. They are no higher than they were with the 160, just don't drop off as much at the edges of the tank.
Can this be so?
yes, you have better spread. thats a good thing.
if your running about 350 par mid to upper tank, thats really kinda overkill beyond that unless you really want to play with light. A radion will give you about 12oo par at 12 in.
yea dunno. could be lenses. it takes more light to spread over and area than focus on one spot. I find it frustrating is all guess work w kessil.ccording to that link I find it interesting numbers for the 160 vs the 360 are not much different but watt usage per light is double with the 360.
a mars aqua and sbreeflight and ai sol do the same btw.The Radion blows both lights out of the water for amount of light emitted it seems. Which is impressive.
yea dunno. could be lenses. it takes more light to spread over and area than focus on one spot. I find it frustrating is all guess work w kessil.
a mars aqua and sbreeflight and ai sol do the same btw.
they dont post ANY DATA>>>>AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!I wonder why it's such guesswork with the Kessil? Just nature of that particular beast?
Also, I think probably any light out performs the Kessil according to that link. lol
Re-took some lux readings at max intensity of 85% on the A360 and got right around 20,000 right under the light. Where the sps are positioned it was closer to 15,000. I turned up the 360 to 100% and am now getting 37,000 give or take a few thousand depending and angled the light so max output is more where the sps are positioned.
Is this too much? 100% intensity (for 4 hours currently I think) in the light cycle on a BC29 seems too much...
I wouldn't just do a quick jump on the lights. Need to acclimate. Also if the 37k was max right under the light it's hard if it's too much unless we know how far away the corals are from it.
I wouldn't just do a quick jump on the lights. Need to acclimate. Also if the 37k was max right under the light it's hard if it's too much unless we know how far away the corals are from it.
yup, id just watch how fast you increase intensity.Yeah, I will watch as far as acclimation. Typically I can bump by 10% with no negative reaction from the corals. That said, I might back it off slightly and bump by 5% every couple weeks until I hit 100%.
Light is probably 12" off the water and sps are 4-6" from surface of the water by my estimation.