MH bulb's choice

Yanir34

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Hello reefers ,
I'm setting up my new SPS dominate tank.
its dimensions will be :
140 cm long
55 cm high
70 cm wide

since I started grow corals 15 years ago I did it with T5's and the results was excellent .
But , the shimmer and natural look is missing.

I like the natural look of coral with MH , and aiming to that spectrum ...but don't want my tank will to "yellowish" . for that purpose I have bought a the beginning 2 types of bulb's :
hamilton 14k
Radium 20k

just after paurches, I realized that I needed some low K bulbs

right now , hamilton is selling 6500k and 10,000k bulbs.
this will be with T5 actinic supplement.

what do you think ?
Some videos and pics with this bulbs spectrum will be very helpful.
my setup will be 2 bulbs of 400w , with Bali sun reflectora and Lumatek electronic ballast .
 

ikaros70

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Personally, I would run 20k radium’s.
iMO.. Hard to beat that color spectrum.
I wouldn’t run anything under 10k, imo… will be too yellow.
 

A. grandis

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14K or 10K with actinics or Blue Plus bulbs, if you think 20Ks are too blue.
The 6500K is "PAR monster", as many call it, and will give you a tremendous result in growth and natural pigment formation, but you won't notice much of it when they are on because your eyes will assimilate more the green part of the spectrum and you will call it a "yellow bulb", naturally. So for a nice crispy white with hint of blues the 14Ks and 10Ks will do a great job with the Blue Plus or actinic bulbs.
 
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Yanir34

Yanir34

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Today i took par measurements.
I checked the Radium 20k 400w , and hamilton 14k 400w.
The measurements done with Apogee par meter model MQ-520. it supposed to read MH ,LED and t5 par values .
The reflectors is Grow plant reflectors , not the type for reef aquarium (i didn't got yet my hamilton reflectors).
both measurements was done at 20" distance from the reflectors (approximately 40 cm) , but not inside the water because my lighting cabinet is still in build.
The results is interesting.
At the Radium its 500 par at 20' , and 700 par at 10'.
With the hamilton 14k , its 700 at 20' and 1,000 par at 10'.
Cleanly that the hamilton 14k is much stronger , at par values .
I also liked more the colors at the 14k ,then the Radium 20k.
 

A. grandis

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How many million times? LOL! PAR is just ONE of the qualities of light, part of the equation. PAR will NOT tell you anything about spectrum, distribution and delivery. That means that when you choose a particular PAR range, or the value is higher, or any attribute you can give to PAR in this world, you won't necessarily have the "best" light for your tank.
It is just an interesting way to know if your light bulb needs to be changed, when you compare before and after, for example. It is interesting to understand and put together a puzzle in each situation, but things like fixtures, angles, sensors, water depth/ movement, and other variables will play big time in each case.
I like the fact that you published the details around your measurement mentioning the fixture, distance and wattage. That should be an example to the LED users that constantly use PAR to identify and solve their problems.
Finally, you won't need to measure PAR using halides cause they will be always safe when you adapt the system to new bulbs or any new halide gear.
 

Max93

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I literally use grow bulbs. Very natural white look but the spectrum is literally the sun. I get great growth and color. When the blues come on and halides turn on holy moly.
 

A. grandis

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I literally use grow bulbs. Very natural white look but the spectrum is literally the sun. I get great growth and color. When the blues come on and halides turn on holy moly.
What is the bulb brand, wattage and ballast you are using? Please post pictures, if you can.
 

GarrettT

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10K + actinics is what I have. 10k alone is far too yellow for me. I’m thinking about switching to 6500k, as my actinics really drown out all of the yellowing.
 
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Yanir34

Yanir34

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10K + actinics is what I have. 10k alone is far too yellow for me. I’m thinking about switching to 6500k, as my actinics really drown out all of the yellowing.
what type of actinic bulbs are you using ?
 
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Yanir34

Yanir34

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How many million times? LOL! PAR is just ONE of the qualities of light, part of the equation. PAR will NOT tell you anything about spectrum, distribution and delivery. That means that when you choose a particular PAR range, or the value is higher, or any attribute you can give to PAR in this world, you won't necessarily have the "best" light for your tank.
It is just an interesting way to know if your light bulb needs to be changed, when you compare before and after, for example. It is interesting to understand and put together a puzzle in each situation, but things like fixtures, angles, sensors, water depth/ movement, and other variables will play big time in each case.
I like the fact that you published the details around your measurement mentioning the fixture, distance and wattage. That should be an example to the LED users that constantly use PAR to identify and solve their problems.
Finally, you won't need to measure PAR using halides cause they will be always safe when you adapt the system to new bulbs or any new halide gear.
Thank for your reply mate ☺
At the bottom line i can said now one thing for sure - the look of the 14K is simply amazing !
Hamilton technologyearn they reputation as very reliable company that stands at technical spec.
Right now the tank is still in cycle , I will update the progress of the system.
its my first time with halide's, I have high demands from my gear and my system .
I hope they will fulfill my targets.
 

GarrettT

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Enderg60

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Another Vote for the Radium 20k's

Been using them for 20 years on over driven ballasts and I will never change.
 

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