Mitras Lightbar 2's
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Difficult to answer on this
The way I was thinking when I chose one ocean blue in my setup was that I maybe need more wavelengths above 630 nm, at least some over 660 and up to 745 nm. The 4500 K would give me that and because I chose a 100 cm - it was only 10 diods of this and if I did not like it - I could just skip them. After testing my set up for a while - I run all RGB and blue diods on 100 % for total 9 hours - during 3 of them - I also have the whites on 100 %. I try to make a comparison in this post. Later on I have also been thinking of the green photons and speculate a little around this.
However - I do not know. If you chose an ocean blue - you will lose both some 425 and 450 nm blues (compared with deep actinic). Actinic I do not se as an alternative - you already have 6500 K. Even if you going into "deep blue" you will be able to create a white hue with help of the RGB. If you going into SPS dominate reef -> maybe a second deep actinic is good. If you are going into a second deep actinic - do not be afraid of running the RGB at 100 %. I´m pleased with my choice but I sometimes think about the combination of 3 deep actinic and one fresh water (daylight) would fit my demands better - but really - I do not know.
Hint - use the inbuild light creator (in GCC) and use the last option. You can chose different combinations and run them in the creator and get som ideas of your spectra. Se this and this
Sincerely Lasse
The way I was thinking when I chose one ocean blue in my setup was that I maybe need more wavelengths above 630 nm, at least some over 660 and up to 745 nm. The 4500 K would give me that and because I chose a 100 cm - it was only 10 diods of this and if I did not like it - I could just skip them. After testing my set up for a while - I run all RGB and blue diods on 100 % for total 9 hours - during 3 of them - I also have the whites on 100 %. I try to make a comparison in this post. Later on I have also been thinking of the green photons and speculate a little around this.
However - I do not know. If you chose an ocean blue - you will lose both some 425 and 450 nm blues (compared with deep actinic). Actinic I do not se as an alternative - you already have 6500 K. Even if you going into "deep blue" you will be able to create a white hue with help of the RGB. If you going into SPS dominate reef -> maybe a second deep actinic is good. If you are going into a second deep actinic - do not be afraid of running the RGB at 100 %. I´m pleased with my choice but I sometimes think about the combination of 3 deep actinic and one fresh water (daylight) would fit my demands better - but really - I do not know.
Hint - use the inbuild light creator (in GCC) and use the last option. You can chose different combinations and run them in the creator and get som ideas of your spectra. Se this and this
Sincerely Lasse
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I run 300 watts
Sincerely Lasse
Sincerely Lasse
OP
OP
Tristren
Well-Known Member
Ok, so I've received my additional Lightbar. It is a second 140cm. But based on @Lasse suggestion it is a Deep Actinic. @Ditto, you're happy with the light you're getting from them?
So I will running the 140 ocean, the 80 ocean, and the 140 deep actinic. @Lasse, could you suggest how I should adjust my profile?
I think that I will also try using the new channels on the deep actinic for the moonlight. As you said it is a bit bright as it stands.
Thanks again for all your help, Tony
So I will running the 140 ocean, the 80 ocean, and the 140 deep actinic. @Lasse, could you suggest how I should adjust my profile?
I think that I will also try using the new channels on the deep actinic for the moonlight. As you said it is a bit bright as it stands.
Thanks again for all your help, Tony
Ditto
Valuable Member
@Tristren - I am extremely happy with the light results.
I had a few bumps, as I had my lights about 10 inches above the water at 60 percent power but what I learned after really understating the illumination manager is that my three lights were throwing out only 35 watts of power each based on the lighting intensity and channels I was using.
I then bought a par meter and measured and went oh wait 30 par on the sand bed need to fix this. The light was distributed great across the tank and even and lookedbright but it was not.
I took @Lasse and the BRS video they did on WWC 900 gallon lighting and mimic both of them in a hybrid approach. When doing this my wattage to 265 watts from roughly 100 and my readings are now 150 on the sand bed to 300 to the top of my tank at 80% power with the lights about 6 inches off the water. If want to go to 200 on the sand bed all I need to do is bump up to 100%.
I am still accliminting my lights with the new settings and have one more week but the results are even more amazing. My clam is much happier, and my coral are all extending now.
I was going to add T5 supplement lighting but really no reason to do it now as everything is looking so good.
I had a few bumps, as I had my lights about 10 inches above the water at 60 percent power but what I learned after really understating the illumination manager is that my three lights were throwing out only 35 watts of power each based on the lighting intensity and channels I was using.
I then bought a par meter and measured and went oh wait 30 par on the sand bed need to fix this. The light was distributed great across the tank and even and lookedbright but it was not.
I took @Lasse and the BRS video they did on WWC 900 gallon lighting and mimic both of them in a hybrid approach. When doing this my wattage to 265 watts from roughly 100 and my readings are now 150 on the sand bed to 300 to the top of my tank at 80% power with the lights about 6 inches off the water. If want to go to 200 on the sand bed all I need to do is bump up to 100%.
I am still accliminting my lights with the new settings and have one more week but the results are even more amazing. My clam is much happier, and my coral are all extending now.
I was going to add T5 supplement lighting but really no reason to do it now as everything is looking so good.
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Ditto
Valuable Member
I will post a updated .lpc tonight for you.
Hey all,
My three Mitras have arrived and are going into my SCA 150 next month. When it is done cycling and I finally turn the lights on, I had been contemplating adding two 48" T5 retrofits from BRS. However, Ditto and Lasse pointed out the LB2's in my other "what should I get thread."
Now, I am thinking...
How do these compare to T5's regarding shading? And what LB2's should I use to supplement the LX7's? I am thinking the 120's for sure (60" tank), maybe one deep actinic and one actinic? Or maybe two deep actinics and one regular actinic?
??? Kind of clueless here.
And thanks for sharing your experiences (AGAIN). Very super awesome cool of you to be so awesome.
My three Mitras have arrived and are going into my SCA 150 next month. When it is done cycling and I finally turn the lights on, I had been contemplating adding two 48" T5 retrofits from BRS. However, Ditto and Lasse pointed out the LB2's in my other "what should I get thread."
Now, I am thinking...
How do these compare to T5's regarding shading? And what LB2's should I use to supplement the LX7's? I am thinking the 120's for sure (60" tank), maybe one deep actinic and one actinic? Or maybe two deep actinics and one regular actinic?
??? Kind of clueless here.
And thanks for sharing your experiences (AGAIN). Very super awesome cool of you to be so awesome.
OP
OP
Tristren
Well-Known Member
Hi there,Hey all,
My three Mitras have arrived and are going into my SCA 150 next month. When it is done cycling and I finally turn the lights on, I had been contemplating adding two 48" T5 retrofits from BRS. However, Ditto and Lasse pointed out the LB2's in my other "what should I get thread."
Now, I am thinking...
How do these compare to T5's regarding shading? And what LB2's should I use to supplement the LX7's? I am thinking the 120's for sure (60" tank), maybe one deep actinic and one actinic? Or maybe two deep actinics and one regular actinic?
??? Kind of clueless here.
And thanks for sharing your experiences (AGAIN). Very super awesome cool of you to be so awesome.
I don't have any experience with T5s but the spread on these is great.
The other thing to keep in mind with the Lightbars is that they have multiple channels (as opposed to the T5s I mean). So you can adjust the spectrum after they are in.
I have 140s on my 60" tank and they fit nicely. 150s would go completely end to end. I think that you would be better off getting 2 longer length units vs 3 shorter ones.
My main advice though would be to listen to @Lasse, @Ditto and the guys from GHL.
Cheers, Tony
Ditto
Valuable Member
@Tristren - Sorry for the delay
I am noticing even at 20K I have a very nice white, at 50% whites, I can go more whites if I need to by just increasing the white or lowering the blue. I have my lights on for a long period of time, because I work and want to at least see them when I do get home, so I have an extended blue period. Again I am mimicking closely the WWC 900 gallon lighting schedule.
As for the spread it is even throughout the tank, I was toying with getting T5, but I have yet seen no reason. Everything seems to be growing, nothing is wilting or dieing. Yes i have a few dark area's in my tank but that is well under my rocks in some caves which I would expect it to be dark.
Attached is my LPC file renamed to .pdf, do not forget to rename it
@Lasse - How are you doing with yours? I know you and I have been running about the same amount of time.
I am noticing even at 20K I have a very nice white, at 50% whites, I can go more whites if I need to by just increasing the white or lowering the blue. I have my lights on for a long period of time, because I work and want to at least see them when I do get home, so I have an extended blue period. Again I am mimicking closely the WWC 900 gallon lighting schedule.
As for the spread it is even throughout the tank, I was toying with getting T5, but I have yet seen no reason. Everything seems to be growing, nothing is wilting or dieing. Yes i have a few dark area's in my tank but that is well under my rocks in some caves which I would expect it to be dark.
Attached is my LPC file renamed to .pdf, do not forget to rename it
@Lasse - How are you doing with yours? I know you and I have been running about the same amount of time.
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OP
OP
Tristren
Well-Known Member
@Tristren - Sorry for the delay
I am noticing even at 20K I have a very nice white, at 50% whites, I can go more whites if I need to by just increasing the white or lowering the blue. I have my lights on for a long period of time, because I work and want to at least see them when I do get home, so I have an extended blue period. Again I am mimicking closely the WWC 900 gallon lighting schedule.
As for the spread it is even throughout the tank, I was toying with getting T5, but I have yet seen no reason not to. Everything seems to be growing, nothing is wilting or dieing. Yes i have a few dark area's in my tank but that is well under my rocks in some caves which I would expect it to be dark.
Attached is my LPC file renamed to .pdf, do not forget to rename it
@Lasse - How are you doing with yours? I know you and I have been running about the same amount of time.
Thanks very much. WWC and Lasse seems like good pedigree to follow. I'm following his advice with my current setup, using the RGB channels more than the whites.
I'll plug yours in an take a look once I have the lights connected to the ProfiLux. That will involve running an cable up to the tank from the basement but hopefully it will be get done tomorrow.
I was looking at your screenshot though. Naming the channels is something that I'll do (didn't bother with the ProfiLux Light). I'm curious as to what the difference is in your set up between channel 3 and channel 22?
Cheers, Tony
Ditto
Valuable Member
I have an expansion box so I have 2 lights plugged into the one and one light plugged into the other I assigned different channels on the expansion box to see if I could do different things and alas I could actually have different illumination channels on the P4 and the expansion box could have it’s own.
I assigned different channels on the expansion box to see if I could do different things and alas I could actually have different illumination channels on the P4 and the expansion box could have it’s own.
OP
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Tristren
Well-Known Member
I have an expansion box so I have 2 lights plugged into the one and one light plugged into the other
I wondered about controlling two sets of lights actually... How did it go?
Ditto
Valuable Member
@Tristren - It does work, you just have to set the Mitras Light Bar channels to the other illumination channels and away you go.
@Aquius - (I am hoping it works the same way as it does for my Mitras light bar 2)
Moon light is determined by two things. The Time you wish the moonlight to impact the illumination channel which is seen in the GCC Software, or the App under Illumination, Simulation.
Here is a screen shot of my simulation on the P4
As you can see above I have my Moon start time at 5:00pm and end at 6:00am.
Now we need to choose the channel we want to impact Moon, For me it is a Blue channel, but you can choose the illumination channel on your Mitras Lights you want to be impacted by moonlight and check the box depends on moonphase. Most of the time your channels would be at 0 or off at night, so you will need to ramp it back up to the intensity you wish the moon light to be with an understanding it will be adjusted in intensity by the simulation.
I may be able to simulate the WWC on the Mitras lx also, just need find a project file to play with.
@Aquius - (I am hoping it works the same way as it does for my Mitras light bar 2)
Moon light is determined by two things. The Time you wish the moonlight to impact the illumination channel which is seen in the GCC Software, or the App under Illumination, Simulation.
Here is a screen shot of my simulation on the P4
As you can see above I have my Moon start time at 5:00pm and end at 6:00am.
Now we need to choose the channel we want to impact Moon, For me it is a Blue channel, but you can choose the illumination channel on your Mitras Lights you want to be impacted by moonlight and check the box depends on moonphase. Most of the time your channels would be at 0 or off at night, so you will need to ramp it back up to the intensity you wish the moon light to be with an understanding it will be adjusted in intensity by the simulation.
I may be able to simulate the WWC on the Mitras lx also, just need find a project file to play with.
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I´m sorry for my late answer - I run my in a rather simple set up for the moment
As you can see - I have a rather long period in the morning only running RGB. Start 08:00 and 100 % at 12:00. Real blues and 8000K 0 at 12:00 and 100% at 13:00. ¤500 and 6000 K starts 13:00 and all channels 100 % at 14:00. At 20:00 I start to ramp down 4500 and 6000K . For the moment I have an upper limit of 85 % of max intensity.
The reason for the long "daybreak" is that I notice that my shy fishes just love the weak morning light an show up a total different pattern in this rather weal light.
The short video shows how it looks like when all are at 100 %
Sincerely Lasse
The reason for the long "daybreak" is that I notice that my shy fishes just love the weak morning light an show up a total different pattern in this rather weal light.
The short video shows how it looks like when all are at 100 %
Sincerely Lasse
OP
OP
Tristren
Well-Known Member
I´m sorry for my late answer - I run my in a rather simple set up for the moment
As you can see - I have a rather long period in the morning only running RGB. Start 08:00 and 100 % at 12:00. Real blues and 8000K 0 at 12:00 and 100% at 13:00. ¤500 and 6000 K starts 13:00 and all channels 100 % at 14:00. At 20:00 I start to ramp down 4500 and 6000K . For the moment I have an upper limit of 85 % of max intensity.
The reason for the long "daybreak" is that I notice that my shy fishes just love the weak morning light an show up a total different pattern in this rather weal light.
The short video shows how it looks like when all are at 100 %
Sincerely Lasse
Thanks very much. You're tank looks amazing as always.
That is a very long ramp up in the morning! Also lots of hours at 100% as well.
When you shift from one program to another do you incorporate an acclimation period?
Cheers, Tony
The 100 % run have I rise during a couple of months. I start with blue and RGB 100 % for 6 hours and White´s for 3 hour. after that I have ramped up the whites slowly - now I run the whites 100 % for 6 hours (the 8000 K for 7 hours)
The long start period is for my fish
Sincerely Lasse
The long start period is for my fish
Sincerely Lasse
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