My 180 SPS Kingdom

Acro maniac · May 10, 2017

Here we go!
So. Im in the process of building a new home and thought what a good opportunity to upgrade my reef also.
Ill start with a little background. I have a 90g mixed reef that has morphed or evolved in to a predominantly sps over about the last 5-6years. Moving from chalices, frogspawns, hammers and duncans to montis, cyphastrea, birdnests and stylos. Over the past couple years i have been slowly moving out the easier sps and transitioning into the world of acropora.I also have a separate frag tank that will be part of the new system.
Now with a new house being built actually the property was just surveyed last week. I jumped at the opportunity to upgrade my reef. I had been looking for a larger tank for awhile and landed on a brand new marineland 180, 6x2x2 basic. No plumbing. Plan from the beginning was a larger tank with a ghost style overflow to maximize usable space in the display. Last week i purchased the shadow overflow from synergy (sweet). I currently have on order a couple glass drilling bits and 1in return bulkheads. I also have a stand framed out ready for skin. Ill post some pics below.
I do plan on doing all the build work myself stand, plumbing, electric, and sump build. With a helping hand from a couple friends and enlisting the wealth of knowledge in this forum. Opinions and criticism will be welcomed, thats how I learn. I want to make this build simple and as cost affective as possible.
Anyway heres some pics to bring you up to speed. Which isn't very far at this point.

I picked up the pocket hole guide for 15 bucks at lowes. The stand is made out of premium 2x4s with the top being 2x6.

Shadow overflow very well done. I actually ran upto reefapoloosa on Saturday and was handling one prior to mine being delivered and was happy with my decision.
I will be updating and also asking for opinions as i go with different techniques to build and to transition my other 2 tanks.

steallife904 · May 10, 2017

not sure if you have built a stand yourself before but just throwing a few things out there you may already know. Make sure the stand is level, do it again when the tank is in its spot in the new house. May want to paint stand with water resistant paint. I think just to make myself feel better I would want to put a support closer to the middle, maybe in a spot 2 doors will open or close at (that is how my stand is, I didn't built it was built by tank maker).

Acro maniac · May 10, 2017

steallife904 said:
not sure if you have built a stand yourself before but just throwing a few things out there you may already know. Make sure the stand is level, do it again when the tank is in its spot in the new house. May want to paint stand with water resistant paint. I think just to make myself feel better I would want to put a support closer to the middle, maybe in a spot 2 doors will open or close at (that is how my stand is, I didn't built it was built by tank maker).

Yes thanks, I will definitely level the stand proir to filling .
There will also be one 18in opening with a door on the left and a 36in opening with two doors on the right. There will be a support between the 18 and 36in opening also support in the back. I beleive it will be over kill but its ok. This tank can be supported by just the corners, from the research ive done but i dont know if i beleive that. Thats why i went with a 2x6 top.
Also inside stand will be cualked and coated with kills.
Thanks for the feedback

Acro maniac · May 12, 2017

During the week i was able to put an order in for a couple diamond bit hole saws. I also ordered a wye check valve for the return line (1in) and a couple gate valves for the overflows to dial in the full siphon coming out of the shadow overflow.
I will be drilling the tank next weekend. 4 holes total, the 2 returns will be 1in (45mm) and the drains are 1 and a half in (65mm) holes. Then i will be able to start laying out the plumbing. I have a couple ideas but im the type of person that needs to see it and feel it. Thats when i will be able to finalize the plumbing layout.
I have a template that comes with the overflow for the drains. Thise will be what they will be. My concern is the returns and the location. I would like to put each one 6in from the corner on the back wall as high as possible. The tank is braced so i would like to drill the hole so the bulkhead is a 1/4in below the brace. I would like some feed back on that location. I will also be researching this during the week prior to drill. I would like to have a little more confidence before i drill that the glass can support a hole that close to the edge. I believe i read somewhere before that drilling close to a brace would strengthen or support the hole. Anyway ill ne reading up.

Acro maniac · May 15, 2017

Ok so, after doing some research i have confidence in the locafions picked for drilling the returns. They will be 1in bulkheads, placed about 6in from the corners and as close to the top trim as possible without interfering. These 2 holes and the 2, 1.5in holes for the shadow overflow will be drilled this Saturday.
I just recieved a small box of stuff from brs and included was the diamond holesaws. I needed to make the cuts.

Also in that box are the 1.5in gate valves and 1in wye check valve for the return. Pieces and parts starting to show up. Excitement building...

Acro maniac · May 21, 2017

This weekend my plan to have all the bulkheads drilled and installed took a backseat to surfing, family and golf. With that said , i did setup yesterday to drill the holes for the overflow. Once i got all the measurements worked out and box mocked up i had some concerns on the location of the outer box lid. It seemed to be hitting under the trim on the tank, which made it challenging to remove. Also if i lowered it anymore the water level in the dt would be below the trim. So i started a thread in the manufactures thread on this site. Amazed they responded very quickly and were able to asure me that i would be fine.
So i moved toward drilling, i didnt use the drill guide that they provided becuase i drilled the tank while on the stand. ( I did not put the tank on side to drill) and the guide they provide was to tight in my opinion and would not allow water in the cut area while glass is verticle. Instead i used 2 pieces of 2x4 with double sided tape for the drill bit guide. I did have a hose with a spray tip to supply water to the cut area. Because i did this in the garage i had to setup a catch for the water, so i used a trash bag taped to the tank with the corner cut out to funnel the water to a bucket.

once i got it layed and setup i was able to drill both the overflow holes. Total drilling time took about 5minutes per hole. Tank is half inch glass.

After i cleaned up the water in the tank and on the glass i was able to install the overflow. I think it turned out pretty good. I used 65mm diamond bit holesaw for the holes which will allow me some ability to adjust the height of the inner box to control the water level inside the DT.

Installed side and front view.
This week i will drill the two 1in returns and start mocking up the plumbing.

Acro maniac · May 22, 2017

Im having some different thoughts on where to drill the return lines (2) coming from the sump, through a chiller and then into the tank. I pretty set on the height. Ill be right around a quarter inch from the trim to the edge of the bulhead flange.
What i cant land on is the location on the back wall. Should i go as close to the corner as possible or keep it close to the overflow box?
If i keep close to the overflow i can turn them away to discharge away from the suction of the overflow. And plumbing would be shorter and tight with drain pipes.
If i go out to the corners i could possibly get better circulation. It also will extend the distance the water has to run before emptying in the dt. More pvc more turns.
Fwiw i will have at least (3) 130 gyres for water movement. 1 on each end and 1 on the back wall under the overflow.
So what are some opinions on location of the returns???

Acro maniac · May 30, 2017

Well, i ended up spliting the difference of space from the overflow to the corners. So both returns are drilled half way from the overflow to the corner. Bulkheads will be 1inch threaded on the inside of the tank so i can screw in a coupler and short pipe to attach a 45 to control flow direct

ion. I think it turn out well.

Acro maniac · May 30, 2017

Other then installing and drilling the (2) 1inch returns i have not had time to do much with the build. I have been doing some research on what options i have to skin the stand with. And have not really landed on anything 100% that gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. My wife changed her plan with what furniture the new house will get, so my plan of having a white cabinet with moldings, trim and crown. Isnt going to match. Sure glad i didnt finish the stand a couple weeks ago when i planned stand completion. Now because all the (new) furniture in the surrounding area is disressed charcoal pine, i have to find a different technique. Fallowing the same look and color will be a challenge. White would have been so much easier.
I have built wood furniture for a yacht company but that was many years ago and i had an entire wood workshop at my disposal. I personally dont have the equipment. Hope i can come up with some ideas.
I will also post some pictures of the pieces i will be using for reference and hopefully someone will give some input. Ill take some shots tomorrow and post them.
Also tomorrow ill be paiting the back glass satin black. Ill take some before and afters of that as well.
Thank for reading.

Acro maniac · May 31, 2017

I was not able to get pictures of the furniture before the sun went down and lighting is not good for picrures inside the house. Ill try again tomorrow.
I did use the evening to tape off and paint the back wall of the tank. I think it turned out really good. I chose to spray it with rustoleum idustrial satin black. The satin and the flat spray paints have a thinker more opaque concentrated paint then the gloss spray paints. Rustoleum also is much thicker then other brands and worked really well.

Acro maniac · May 31, 2017

The plan is to be bare bottom and I have been kicking around a couple ideas for protecting the bottom of the tank from scratches. Not sure weather i should go with starboard, hpde, or even just a piece of arylic. Whatever material i go with it will be cut to fit and siliconed around the edges to keep detritus and other unwanted stuff from getring under it where it is inaccessible to be siphoned out.
Does anyone have any ideas to protect the bottom glass or what did you use if you have already done it? Would you do it again or use something different? Id like to hear some ideas. Thanks

Smashville · May 31, 2017

Nice start. Following to see how it turns out.

Reefcowboy · May 31, 2017

Nice thread! Following

Acro maniac · Jun 2, 2017

Smashville said:
Nice start. Following to see how it turns out.

Thanks for following

Acro maniac · Jun 2, 2017

Reefcowboy said:
Nice thread! Following

Thanks, for following

Acro maniac · Jun 2, 2017

Yesterday i finalized about 90% of the plumbing. I placed my order with pvcfittingsonline.com. They had everything i need and the price was far cheaper then anywhere else. Placed the order late afternoon and had a congirmation the order was pulled and tracking number by 5pm. So far seems like fast service.

Acro maniac · Jun 2, 2017

Here's my chicken scratch rendition of the plumbing. The only part im not settled on is weather or not to plumb the chiller unit in line returning to the DT or plumb a loop for just the chiller. The benefit of have it on its own loop would be not reducing flow back to the DT. Due to long runs and the chiller has 3/4 inlet and outlets and the returns are 1inch. My only concern would chilling efficiency with moving 1500 gph through the sump and having the chiller loop running a mag 9. Any input on this would be helpful.

Acro maniac · Jun 2, 2017

Hopfully today i finalize my plan for a diy sump and place an order for the cast acrylic. I know the foot print will close to cube in shape to fit snug in the stand. I am looking at 24d 18h 19w for a total volume of about 35 gallons. Sump will also include an ATO reservoir for 5.5gallons. I trying to save the extra space in the stand for a plumbed in frag tank and still have room on the right side of the stand for a control center for all the equipment. That will be accessible from the side panel.

Acro maniac · Jun 9, 2017

This week has been hectic to say the least. Its be raining all week and ihave repaired a roof at a rental property.

here is the completed pic

this repair absorbed my day off and left me very little tank time.
Tuesday after work this week i came home to my roof leaking. So i fixed that and when i was coming back in the house i noticed water on the floor in the utility room, water heater leaking. I was able to limp a couple day on the old one and Ill be picking up a new one today after work. Install will be this afternoon.
In the mix of this week i recieved my order from PVCFITTINGSONLINE.COM

I also recieved a couple cepex ball valves from BRS and I have been playing around with a couple ideas. Which solidified my sump plan.

now that i landed on a sump configuration i was able to order the cast acrylic from PROFESSIONALPLASTICS.COM. I placed the order last night so ill update when i receive the order. But all acrylic clear and colored, shipped cost $257 cut to order with a -0/+0.031 tolerance. Will shall see what comes, this my first attempt at an acrylic sump build. I have made a couple different things out of acrylic recently and feel i can pull it off. The idea with this sump is to fit inside the stand front to back and still leave plenty of room longways. To me theres so much space lost with long tanks inside stands. But thats just my opinion. I want use all available space so i don't end up cluttered.
Stand space is at a premium.

Acro maniac · Jun 14, 2017

I should be receiving all the acrylic for my diy sump this week. This is a first attempt at a sump build and have a question on cutting. I have read a table saw is best but i dont have one. My plan was to use a jig saw for the first cut, then route the edge.
What kind of blade should i use in the jigsaw?
Fwiw worth i will be using a fence as a guide for the cut. Any input will be helpful this is pretty new to me.