I’m planning on using the tropic Marin Trace A/K dosed separately, it’s way down there at the end of the original post.I don't see anything adding trace elements.
You need to do that separately or rely on regular water changes to top them up.
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I’m planning on using the tropic Marin Trace A/K dosed separately, it’s way down there at the end of the original post.I don't see anything adding trace elements.
You need to do that separately or rely on regular water changes to top them up.
Thanks randy, that was kind of my plan. Only dose the mag when it goes low since I have daily mag readings whether I want them or not with Trident.My magnesium part and Balling Part C are somewhat redundant (both are mostly magnesium and contain a lot of sulfate) and I do not recommend both. Use balling C and then only use the mag part if testing suggests a need. The ratio won’t matter too much, but in that scenario use the stand alone mag ratio of 11:1.
The Balling C is used at the rate that BRS recommends for the soda ash recipe.
1) Soda Carbonate & Sodium hydroxide will have the same alkalinity boost when you follow Randy’s recipes.
2) If you are going to use Tropic Balling Part C, the magnesium mix will be slightly different:
I pulled the measurements and numbers right off of this page. I've read BRS uses Randy's recipe, but I don't know if this is specifically the one they got from him as it has Balling C incorporated in it.Why 2x?
Kalkwasser does NOT have a salinity imbalance effect. You would follow the mixing instructions of balling part C (91g/gal) and dose equal amounts of soda ash, calcium, and balling.
You can technically dose balling once a week, but it isn’t ideal.
Balling Part C is NOT a trace element additive. It is used to prevent skewing the salinity toward sodium and chloride.
You're saying their listed magnesium mix isn't ideal and I should do 933 grams Magnesium Chloride and 84.82 grams Magnesium Sulfate per Gallon for 11 to 1 ratio as needed and dose Balling C routinely?
Read through all 37 pages. Reading comprehension and retention is now going to be tested as I embark on this new Sodium Hydroxide journey. lol.
I'm running a CaRX and biopellets in a energy efficient home that is likely too well sealed all contributing to the CO2 thus pH problem in my reef. I plan to back down the CaRX when starting the Part 2 dosing as to not overdose the alk. Question is to the Part C. I see the keeping balance part and potentially trace elements, but what are the things to be concerned about if running Part 2 Sodium Hydroxide alone in tandem with the CaRX with manual weekly trace element supplements? I saw salinity creep which I'm fine with scooping a bit of tank water out occasionally to let fresh ATO rebalance. No biggie.
Same, but not limited in dosing by evaporation rates.
Reread the earlier response when someone asked about the pH impact of sodium hydroxide vs kalk. Randy's response was same, however it appears there's a saturation limit with kalk where sodium hydroxide seems to be able to mix significantly more potentially. i.e. dose less for same results = less solution to refill?
Yes, the pH effect per unit of alk added is the same, but the volume of water needed with sodium hydroxide is much less.
A water change cannot eliminate the problem, but certainly reduces it.How important are the magnesium and sulfate components if weekly 10% water changed are done? I am talking both option when mixed with alk and cal or done as a true 3 part. Will weekly water changes keep everything in balance?
I've switched to this recipe from the original and All for reef, for the PH boost, its been great.
Im wondering how strong I can make the solutions. so ESV is 1.5, but I'm looking to make a 2x strength. is 3x or 4x possible? what are the solubility limits
I've been reading over these threads over the last few days. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge! I'd like to incorporate a 2-part solution that will raise my pH as high as possible to replace kalk in my ATO.
I saw this pH boost recipe in another thread. Could you help me to understand the difference in these two recipes, I'm having trouble combing through the threads to compare:
From the other thread:
Alk part
Add 283 grams of sodium hydroxide to 1 gallon of fresh water. It will get quite warm. Make sure it doesn't soften your container. This solution will contain about 1,900 meq/L of alkalinity (5,300 dKH). BE CAREFUL WITH THIS SOLUTION: IT HAS A pH ABOVE 14. Do not get it in your eyes or on your skin. Keep all reef chemicals, especially this alk part, in a way that children cannot access them.
Calcium part
Dissolve 500 grams (about 2 ½ cups) of calcium chloride dihydrate (such as Dowflake 77-80% calcium chloride or ESV calcium chloride; see below for substitutes and sources) in enough water to make 1 gallon of total volume. You can dissolve it in about ½ gallon of water, and then pour that into the 1 gallon container and fill it to the top with more freshwater. This solution has about 37,000 ppm calcium.
Magnesium part
Dissolve Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (3 cups) and magnesium chloride hexahydrate (5 cups) in enough purified freshwater to make 1 gallon total volume. There will likely be a precipitate that forms even if you fully dissolve both ingredients separately. That precipitate is calcium sulfate (calcium as an impurity in the magnesium chloride and sulfate from the Epsom salts). It is fine and appropriate to dose the precipitate along with the remainder of the fluid by shaking it up before dosing.
VS the "Sodium hydroxide version" from post 1 in this thread.
Thank you!
I've done 4x concentration, the issue I ran into was it would settle in my sump like a gel. So I had to add powerhead to get some turbulence to properly mix.I've switched to this recipe from the original and All for reef, for the PH boost, its been great.
Im wondering how strong I can make the solutions. so ESV is 1.5, but I'm looking to make a 2x strength. is 3x or 4x possible? what are the solubility limits