New T90 arrives tomorrow and I dont know what to do *panic*

[SaltLifeMom]

I'm driving myself crazy lol. I think I've watched so many videos that the info overload has sent me into a panic.

I have the Octo Lux T90 tank arriving tomorrow. 48 gallons, a big step up for me ..I have a Waterbox 25 mixed reef already, running for 18 months. It's been a learning journey!

I'm building aquascape with dry rock and I'm going to cycle with a couple of different bacteria products. Dr. TIMS AND fritz.

Here's where I get scared. I've never had a sump. I don't know what to put in the sump during cycling...do I put bio balls? Pods? Etc. Should I get 2 heaters? Where do I out heaters on this sump? I think the sump is what intimidates me....it seems like something really knowledgeable people use. I'm just a coral obsessed mom >.<

Can anyone dumb it down for me? What do I need to go out and get in order to get cycling?

Hugs<3

 

[shakacuz]

i would put biomedia(bio balls) and pods in the sump while it cycles(or after), but keep in mind you'll have to supplement the pods with phyto which could cause a bacteria bloom(not the end of the world..and can be mitigated by underdosing). dry rock will take longer to seed and ultimately longer to form a biological ecosystem. try getting live rock from a trusted hobbyist near you to jump start the seeding process. this rock can be put in the sump, too

sumps were "thought of" to put all your unsightly equipment down there, so yes, you can put two heaters in the sump. location doesn't matter, but most put it in the same chamber as the skimmer, or bubble trap

 

[Cell]

I'd just do rock in the sump. Ideally, from your existing system. If you cannot spare rock currently in the 25G, then I'd throw a few pieces of dry rock in for a couple weeks and then move it over.

I always run 2 half strength heaters such that both need to fail on at the same time to cook my tank.

Don't waste money on both bottled bac products, just go with Fritz. But it's not needed at all if you can pull some rock from the 25.

 

[nereefpat]

Don't overthink the sump thing. It's just a place to put equipment while also giving a little extra water volume. Run whatever equipment that you think you need. My sump just has a skimmer, heater, and return pump.

For cycling, all you need is an ammonia source and some time. Bottled bacteria can speed up the time requirement. Enough cycled live rock can immediately cycle a tank.

For heaters, I agree that 2 smaller ones is safer than 1 big one. I doesn't matter where it is, as long as it's getting flow.

 

[SaltLifeMom]

Thank you! I'm going to have to cycle the dry rock in the new tank. I don't have spare in my 25, nor do I have room to add some to cycle in that tank. All good, im down to be patient!

 

[Cell]

It doesn't have to be much rock at all to seed the rest.

 

[Naekuh]

I went from a 24G with sump to a 150g with sump.

First decide if your going to use your existing live rock now or put it in later after you got your initial aquscape.

That will determine if you want to try a completely new scape design like a HNSA scape which i feel has been very popular as of late.

I decided i wanted all new rockwork, and a completely new scape. So i went with HNSA. (Habitat Negative Space Aquascape)

Its that design you see with the long extending branches like it defys gravity.

Second the sump is just an addition to your tank thats not visable.
What i put is most of my mechanical stuff in there, like protein skimmer, fleece roller, or actual socks.
Carbon reactor, and a refugium if it has a space for it.

But you don't need to focus on that for now.


Now if your going to recycle the live rock, you can technically put all of it in your tank and move over the fish.
Your cycle will grow and expand out as its needed.
Your fish maybe stressed for the first couple of days, but your cycle will grow out.

If your not going to recycle the live rock, then be prepared for a long 2-4 week cycle. Dry starts are a pain and can take a while.

I wanted to dry start my system because i had a lot of nuance stuff in my existing tank, and wanted a fresh reboot. Also again i wanted to do a HNSA.

So for now i would plan do i want a complete restart? or do i want to use what you have.

 

[SaltLifeMom]

I went from a 24G with sump to a 150g with sump.

First decide if your going to use your existing live rock now or put it in later after you got your initial aquscape.

That will determine if you want to try a completely new scape design like a HNSA scape which i feel has been very popular as of late.

I decided i wanted all new rockwork, and a completely new scape. So i went with HNSA. (Habitat Negative Space Aquascape)

Its that design you see with the long extending branches like it defys gravity.

Second the sump is just an addition to your tank thats not visable.
What i put is most of my mechanical stuff in there, like protein skimmer, fleece roller, or actual socks.
Carbon reactor, and a refugium if it has a space for it.

But you don't need to focus on that for now.


Now if your going to recycle the live rock, you can technically put all of it in your tank and move over the fish.
Your cycle will grow and expand out as its needed.
Your fish maybe stressed for the first couple of days, but your cycle will grow out.

If your not going to recycle the live rock, then be prepared for a long 2-4 week cycle. Dry starts are a pain and can take a while.

I wanted to dry start my system because i had a lot of nuance stuff in my existing tank, and wanted a fresh reboot. Also again i wanted to do a HNSA.

So for now i would plan do i want a complete restart? or do i want to use what you have.

This! I'm building a hnsa aquascape now. I'm not wanting to bring anything over from my current tank really. I'm cool with a longer cycle. Fresh start sort of thing because I did it all wrong the first time, I kind of want to reboot and enjoy the process.

Ty for the sump info. The tank comes with a sump, so I guess for now, I'll add some bio bricks, the heaters and the skimmer, yea?

 

[Naekuh]

This! I'm building a hnsa aquascape now. I'm not wanting to bring anything over from my current tank really. I'm cool with a longer cycle. Fresh start sort of thing because I did it all wrong the first time, I kind of want to reboot and enjoy the process.

Ty for the sump info. The tank comes with a sump, so I guess for now, I'll add some bio bricks, the heaters and the skimmer, yea?

yeah add some bio bricks...
Thats how i set mine up.

These guys fit very nicely in the 4 inch sock compartment.
Thats how i set my sump up.

Do not run any filter media, including the filter sock.
If your water is cloudy from the sand, you can run a filter sock... to filter out the particulate, but i prefer using a submersible filter with sponge as its faster, but if time is not an essense for you, then you can wait for the water to settle with just a filter sock.
After water clears up you want to remove the filter sock.

Do not use the skimmer, unless you are using it cupless.
You don't want to skim anything out of the tank, but you want to infuse it with oxygen.
You can just leave skimmer off, and get an air pump with air stone.
It will help you cycle.

Remember to put the heater in the filter sock section of your sump so it will never drop below level.
A lot of people make the mistake of putting it in the return section, where the water level can fall below the heater and cause you a lot of grief.

If your using dry sand make sure you wash your sand outside first...
It will save you a significant amount of time with cloudy water inside your tank.

Then once filled, use ammonium chloride, and follow dosage for 2ppm.
Then add your biological kick starter... you can use TIM's, Fritz, or even Fluvals.
Also run the tank slightly hypo... so like 1.021.... and bump your temperature to about 82-84F.

Keeps lights OFF until cycle is completed, otherwise your tank will go ugly really fast....

BRS has an excellent Salt mix calculator, incase your bad at math like i am...

Salt Mix Calculator - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

After cycle is complete, you will have A LOT of nitrates.
This is where you do your 40-50% water change, and fix your salinity to 1.026, as well as drop your temp to 77-78F.

GL on your tank!

Remember it can take a WHILE for your tank to mature using dry sand and dry rock.
So you will go though a lot of the ugly stage.

As for copepods... you put them after your tank is cycled, same goes with Macroalgae if you want any.

Another note, you will lose Alk, while the tank cycles...
So if you have auto dosers, it might be a good time to set that up for Alk.
If not, then dose your tank with ALK every now and then to help your cycle.

 

[SaltLifeMom]

yeah add some bio bricks...
Thats how i set mine up.

These guys fit very nicely in the 4 inch sock compartment.
Thats how i set my sump up.

Do not run any filter media, including the filter sock.
If your water is cloudy from the sand, you can run a filter sock... to filter out the particulate, but i prefer using a submersible filter with sponge as its faster, but if time is not an essense for you, then you can wait for the water to settle with just a filter sock.
After water clears up you want to remove the filter sock.

Do not use the skimmer, unless you are using it cupless.
You don't want to skim anything out of the tank, but you want to infuse it with oxygen.
You can just leave skimmer off, and get an air pump with air stone.
It will help you cycle.

Remember to put the heater in the filter sock section of your sump so it will never drop below level.
A lot of people make the mistake of putting it in the return section, where the water level can fall below the heater and cause you a lot of grief.

If your using dry sand make sure you wash your sand outside first...
It will save you a significant amount of time with cloudy water inside your tank.

Then once filled, use ammonium chloride, and follow dosage for 2ppm.
Then add your biological kick starter... you can use TIM's, Fritz, or even Fluvals.
Also run the tank slightly hypo... so like 1.021.... and bump your temperature to about 82-84F.

Keeps lights OFF until cycle is completed, otherwise your tank will go ugly really fast....

BRS has an excellent Salt mix calculator, incase your bad at math like i am...

Salt Mix Calculator - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.bulkreefsupply.com

After cycle is complete, you will have A LOT of nitrates.
This is where you do your 40-50% water change, and fix your salinity to 1.026, as well as drop your temp to 77-78F.

GL on your tank!

Remember it can take a WHILE for your tank to mature using dry sand and dry rock.
So you will go though a lot of the ugly stage.

As for copepods... you put them after your tank is cycled, same goes with Macroalgae if you want any.

Another note, you will lose Alk, while the tank cycles...
So if you have auto dosers, it might be a good time to set that up for Alk.
If not, then dose your tank with ALK every now and then to help your cycle.

I can't thank you enough for this helpful post. I hadn't thought of needing to add alk, thank you!!!!

 

[Cell]

Be aware that Bio bricks can break down/crumble over time and some have been known to leach aluminum iirc.

 

[exnisstech]

I would bring some rock over and put it in the sump. A little live rock can help out dry rock start up for sure. I keep trays of rubble just for that purpose.

EDIT: I have not used bio bricks but I have used marine pure blocks and they did start to crumble over time. Basically ended up as sand in the bottom of the sump.

 

[shakacuz]

Be aware that Bio bricks can break down/crumble over time and some have been known to leach aluminum iirc.

i'm unsure if ALL biomedia does that, but for sure the marine pure bio media does leach aluminum over time, as well as slowly disintegrate. maxspect bio media seems much sturdier, but the alternative @Naekuh posted seems cheap and durable

edit: heard good things about the hygger and sera siporax versions, too

 

[Naekuh]

The ones ive listed have not broken down on me after 2 yrs.
I used them in my old system, and i moved them over to the new system along with additions.

I do know the marine pure ones do degrade.
I have had those completely crumble up.

I also use these guys as well in my skimmer section.

And so far they also been holding up well.

Its something only time will tell.

 

[SaltLifeMom]

Hmmm, yea I'm definitely going to do more learning on the bio media stuff. In my current WB25, I just have a bag of rings and haven't thought about them since.

In other news.....here we go!

 

[nereefpat]

I don't see the point of bio media when you have rock and sand in your tank.

 

[Rjukan]

This! I'm building a hnsa aquascape now. I'm not wanting to bring anything over from my current tank really. I'm cool with a longer cycle. Fresh start sort of thing because I did it all wrong the first time, I kind of want to reboot and enjoy the process.

Ty for the sump info. The tank comes with a sump, so I guess for now, I'll add some bio bricks, the heaters and the skimmer, yea?

I understand the desire to have a fresh start, and you will achieve that in your display.. but it just makes so much sense to save the money, don't bother with the media, and instead just use a few rocks from your current setup in your sump. What's specifically wrong with it that you would be worried having it in your new system?

 

[Naekuh]

I don't see the point of bio media when you have rock and sand in your tank.

HNSA scapes uses about 1/3 to 1/2 the live rock a traditional setup would use.

So for like my 150g i bought about 100lbs of rock, and only ended up using 70lbs of it.

I did use a full 120lbs of dry sand tho.

But sand does not have anywhere close to the capacity a live rock would have.