Thanks RandyA sodium phosphate dosing solution should fully dissolve. If you made it with ro/di, dilute it more.
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Thanks RandyA sodium phosphate dosing solution should fully dissolve. If you made it with ro/di, dilute it more.
If I dose Phosphates via doser I can manipulate my readings. What I am contemplating is should I try to maintain 40ppb, 30ppb, 20ppb, or 10ppb.
I am not sure which level will be most beneficial but my gut tells me to keep it between 15-20ppb
Any suggestions?
Wow was not expecting that high of a recommendation. I am not convinced it being that high will help with exporting my NO3 any faster since I will be dosing the same amount of PO daily to maintain a specific level. I have to many variable to know for sure but in my previous tank I found the PO4 being 30-80ppb was the sweet spot for growth and color - this system was low on NO3 so i had to dose it. My current system I feel the SPS seems to prefer 10ppb but the LPS and Zoas like it when its 30ppb+. Hard balancing act but since I have mainly acros I think going with 20-30ppb would be a safe range to start.Since your NO3 is so high right now, I would crank that PO4 up to 100 ppb if it was me, then maintain it there until NO3 starts to drop. Once NO3 is at an acceptable level, bring PO4 back down to 20ppb and call it a day. As the vodka begins to do its magic on the NO3 your alk will increase, but this takes time and you really need to be patient and just stay the course.
My nitrates use to be in the 50-60ppm range for the longest time, and I set up a vinegar/vodka combo on my doser and have been dosing pretty much the same amount for over a year and now my nitrates sit comfortably in the 5-15ppm range. I check my nitrates maybe once a month now, if NO3 is below 5 ppm, I will back off on the carbon dosing a bit, if NO3 is above 15, I will increase the dosing amount.
Thanks, My observation right now is shrimp I am using is not high in Phosphates. P drops fast and I have had to dose them continuously to keep them detectable. However, the NO3 is just constantly above 100 + PPM even after a big waterchange so they must be introduced via the cheap walmart shrimp i am adding. I am probably adding 2-3 medium size shrimps in my system daily. On my next batch of food I will just stop using shrimp and just use tilapia/salmon/smelts and see if this could be an issue.Shrimp from a grocery store are not naturally unusually high in N or P. Some seafoods get treated with phosphate to preserve freshness. Not sure on mysis.
I discuss data on phosphate in foods here:
Aquarium Chemistry: Phosphate And Math: Yes You Need To Understand Both
Foods are by far the most important source of phosphate in most aquariums. In considering whether sources of phosphate other than foods are important, one must carefully look to the actual amounts involved to determine whether other sources are even worth trying to minimize.reefs.com