Potassium nitrate (Spectracide stump remover) dosing steps
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docsky729
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My system is around 400g. I have a lot of larger clams so I do not run GFO on my system do to cost along with the health risk (PM) of my clams. I rely on a large skimmer as a back bone of my reef. My system always shows 0 Nitrates and I hover around .12 PO4. If I were to start dosing nitrates would that alone be enough bring my PO4 down? Would I have to start dosing a carbon source also? From what I am picking up in this thread is that I might be nitrate limited in my system. For the most part my coral growth is good and i am not having any algae issue but I think my colors could be improved on some. I am wondering if a lower PO4 could help with that.
mcarroll
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You have to remember that light levels also figure in "cooperatively" with nutrients and water flow.
What are your light levels like? Get a reading in lux or PAR – I don't care.
How is flow? If it's a fairly grown-in system, have you done anything to rearrange or upgrade the fl0w since the tank started?
What are your light levels like? Get a reading in lux or PAR – I don't care.
How is flow? If it's a fairly grown-in system, have you done anything to rearrange or upgrade the fl0w since the tank started?
Randy Holmes-Farley
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Definitely maybe. Phosphate will only drop if nitrate is limiting the growth of something substantial. More nitrate is more likely to help color than reducing phosphate in your case (IMO).
I started dosing a week ago and can't believe the difference. I'm waiting on the Red Sea Algae Control test kit to see where my levels are. I'm currently using the Salifert Nitrate test and its very difficult to read. I'm trying to get my nitrates to 2-4ppm. I haven't reached 2ppm per the Salifert test.
ReeferCub
Active Member
I am facing similar problems with my acro frags. I don't have any colonies. My acro frags, except the green ones, have a washed out look. There is no stn or rtn, but the growth is slow. Colors faded. Polyp extension is decent during the Lights On hours and very good during the lights off hours. My red sea and Hanna tested parameters are:
Alk: 8.0
Calcium; 440, Magnesium: 1300.
Temp: 78-79. Ph: 8.0 - 8.2
Nitrate: 0 with red sea nitrate pro test
Phospahate: undetectable with home test. Triton says: 0.002.
I have 3 fishes in my RedSea reefer 170. I feed once or twice every day. I also feed corals every alternate day.
I am thinking if I should dose Nitrate. Will it help?
Alk: 8.0
Calcium; 440, Magnesium: 1300.
Temp: 78-79. Ph: 8.0 - 8.2
Nitrate: 0 with red sea nitrate pro test
Phospahate: undetectable with home test. Triton says: 0.002.
I have 3 fishes in my RedSea reefer 170. I feed once or twice every day. I also feed corals every alternate day.
I am thinking if I should dose Nitrate. Will it help?
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
I find it's easiest to read from the side of the vial, held an inch or so away from the white background of the white card, while standing under 6500 K fluorescent bulbs (in my shop). (Then divided the matching color's number by 10) Hope this helps you a little.
I'm sure it would work for you. I'd let your phosphate come up too (or dose some) as you raise the nitrates. It seems that imbalanced nutrients (having ample NO3 and almost no PO4) can result in a whole host of issues, including coral mortality. There is a balance between NO3 and PO4. I'm not saying your PO4 is too low (as it is probably pretty close to NSW levels). However allowing your PO4 levels to rise to a detectable level (.02ppm for example) is good insurance in my opinion (especially when you are trying to "maintain" them at a certain level)
ReeferCub
Active Member
How to dose for phosphates?
The very thought of dosing phosphates and nitrates make me so uncomfortable. I have spent so long to bring my parameters to NSW levels. My sps use to stn when I had high phosphates and > 10 ppm nitrates. Now after I won that fight the thought of bringing those elements back makes it such pain.
I use so many methods of exporting nitrates:
1. Good quality skimmer from deltec.
2. Filter sock cleaned every 3 days.
3. Santa monica ATS. This one is amazing in growing hair algae.
4. 10-15% water change every week.
5. Less fish load
Do I need to dial this back a bit? Did I go overboard?
The fact that no sps frag stn ed for some time, made me happy that I was doing ok. Also that all of them are growing, albeit at a slow pace reassured me that I am on the right path.
But now I am starting to feel that my sps frags are not colorful. They are just plain dull, except the green ones.
mcarroll
10K Club member
I like @lars' suggestion...
Whatever change you make, keep it simple and small like that.
Then watch for a least a few weeks – without making any other changes – to see how things develop.
The numbers on the kit aren't so important – it's the results in the tank which count.
I only say that because you can see results before you ever see numbers. This makes it very important to go slow and observe carefully.
Whatever change you make, keep it simple and small like that.
Then watch for a least a few weeks – without making any other changes – to see how things develop.
The numbers on the kit aren't so important – it's the results in the tank which count.
I only say that because you can see results before you ever see numbers. This makes it very important to go slow and observe carefully.
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
Some people can feed a little more to bring nitrates and phosphates up, some people can't. I personally don't have a problem adding elemental NO3 or PO4, but I also only have to add them once in a blue moon these days. It definitely isn't a regular thing. You have to find what works best for your system. Go by what your corals are telling you. You may not need to supplement. Some people run fantastically wonderful ULNS!
My tank's inhabitants personally don't appreciate low Nitrate and Phosphate levels, partly due to the light levels in my tank. Everyone's mileage is different.
If you aren't suffering bleaching events or "burnt tips" then you can try other options. No filter socks, feeding a little more, shutting the skimmer down for 3-4 hours etc. In a bleaching event those solutions will likely take too long and having an elemental form of NO3 and PO4 is a distinct advantage.
With the algae scrubber it may be as simple as harvesting more bio mass/ more frequently in order to bring your levels up a bit. That would likely be my first plan of attack.
My tank's inhabitants personally don't appreciate low Nitrate and Phosphate levels, partly due to the light levels in my tank. Everyone's mileage is different.
If you aren't suffering bleaching events or "burnt tips" then you can try other options. No filter socks, feeding a little more, shutting the skimmer down for 3-4 hours etc. In a bleaching event those solutions will likely take too long and having an elemental form of NO3 and PO4 is a distinct advantage.
With the algae scrubber it may be as simple as harvesting more bio mass/ more frequently in order to bring your levels up a bit. That would likely be my first plan of attack.
ReeferCub
Active Member
I like the option of removing the filter sock. My sump is at ground level, very difficult to siphon it. I clean it once in a couple of months using the eheim vacuum.
I will try little things like switching off the skimmer and removing the socks for few hours after I feed the corals at night. Lets see how this goes.
I will try little things like switching off the skimmer and removing the socks for few hours after I feed the corals at night. Lets see how this goes.
On the sump cleanup i use a shopvac with a hack for the nozzle so i don't fill up the bucket in 10 seconds haha let me know if you think it will help you and want pictures of it. But the shopvac is definitely easy...
gettaReef
Valuable Member
I'd be interested in seeing some pictures of this if you don't mind.....I've had the same issue (I rush like a mad man trying to suck as much detritus out as fast as possible lol)
mcarroll
10K Club member
Use 3/4" tubing AND the vac hose together.
Use your hand as the "clutch" that seals the vac and tubing (creating suction) only as needed, drawing water and stopping as needed, on a dime. Never have to turn off the vac until your hands are dry.
(Not my trick.)
Use your hand as the "clutch" that seals the vac and tubing (creating suction) only as needed, drawing water and stopping as needed, on a dime. Never have to turn off the vac until your hands are dry.
(Not my trick.)
Rick.45cal
2500 Club Member
I liked one person's solution to detritus in the sump, that was to install a couple circulation power heads in the sump to prevent detritus from settling. When I stop running filter socks again this is likely what I am going to do.
Personally i like settling in the sump because those big particles have to settle somewhere and I'd rather them settle there.
Basically my contraption is similar to what @mcarrol is describing. The plastic pvc fitting fits exactly on my vacuums hose. The hole on the top is the opening for my thumb. I have found that if i leave it completely open it has good suction and fairly low flow rate allows for good cleaning with minimal water removal.
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