QT overkill?

Grigs

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While I await the delivery of my DT (Waterbox 230.6) I am researching my tail off. I recognize that I will need a QT, likely for the next couple of years, as I stock my system. That being said, I would like to set one up that would look nice set up near my DT so that I can enjoy my new friends while they wait to go to their home. I am thinking of using the Waterbox 40.2 AIO for the QT and running it bare bottom, just using the bioballs and Dr. Tim's One and Only to seed it. I think that this setup would both look good and be relatively easy to clean out as needed. I also hope to perform fewer water changes due to larger system volume.

I have an old Oceanic 57 with a sump and skimmer that I could set up, but I feel like that is serious overkill for a QT. Heck, I feel like the 40 is a bit of overkill, but I wouldn't be limited as far as future acquisitions.

I will almost certainly set up a frag tank with sump and skimmer to quarantine my new coral, though.

What are your thoughts? Am I going waaay overboard with the 40.2 (24" x 24" x 18")? Should I go with the 30.2 (24" x 18" x 18") or just a 40B instead? Appreciate your input!
 

ZachR32

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The problem with that much water volume on a QT will be the amount of medication you'll have to dose. Can be a little more costly. If you're QTinf multiple fish for the same treatments it works out a bit better, but I find that's rarely the case except for prophylactic treatments
 

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I would save yourself the money to invest in other things. Just pick up a Petco tank, the 40b or 55 should be more than enough for the fish you'll be able to stock in your DT. Your frag tank doesn't need to have anything major like a sump and skimmer, I made myself an AIO from a Petco 20long but you really don't even need to go that far. I just have the water flow through some filter media and can stick carbon or anything else I need right in there. A HOB filter and powerhead would work just as well. When you're QTing coral and inverts there's hardly any bioload so you don't need to go too overboard with nutrient export.

You say that you want your QT to be close to your DT, however the recommendation is a minimum of 10 feet away from DT to prevent transmission. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aerosol-transmission.190292/

As for the above comment about medication, yes you will need to use more medication, just make sure that you know the exact volume in your tank, just because a tank is a 40b doesn't mean it holds 40 gallons, particularly with displacement for your PVC things, and the volume in your filtration. My advice is to measure the water going in, yeah it'll take ten minutes to fill it up with gallon jugs, or a 5 gallon bucket with official gallon marks on it, but it's a lot easier than trying to measure after the fact.
 
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I would save yourself the money to invest in other things. Just pick up a Petco tank, the 40b or 55 should be more than enough for the fish you'll be able to stock in your DT. Your frag tank doesn't need to have anything major like a sump and skimmer, I made myself an AIO from a Petco 20long but you really don't even need to go that far. I just have the water flow through some filter media and can stick carbon or anything else I need right in there. A HOB filter and powerhead would work just as well. When you're QTing coral and inverts there's hardly any bioload so you don't need to go too overboard with nutrient export.

You say that you want your QT to be close to your DT, however the recommendation is a minimum of 10 feet away from DT to prevent transmission. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aerosol-transmission.190292/

As for the above comment about medication, yes you will need to use more medication, just make sure that you know the exact volume in your tank, just because a tank is a 40b doesn't mean it holds 40 gallons, particularly with displacement for your PVC things, and the volume in your filtration. My advice is to measure the water going in, yeah it'll take ten minutes to fill it up with gallon jugs, or a 5 gallon bucket with official gallon marks on it, but it's a lot easier than trying to measure after the fact.

Thanks for the feedback. I had read the thread on aerosol transmission, and noted that the study specified a dynamic atmosphere to carry that distance. Still, I was just thinking of having it in the same room in the basement. A lot of money is going into the DT so I figured having an eye sore in the vicinity would be a shame :)

I had not considered medication costs or the need to closely measure the volume of water. That stuff (meds) isn't cheap! Outstanding thinking there!!!
 

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While I await the delivery of my DT (Waterbox 230.6) I am researching my tail off. I recognize that I will need a QT, likely for the next couple of years, as I stock my system. That being said, I would like to set one up that would look nice set up near my DT so that I can enjoy my new friends while they wait to go to their home. I am thinking of using the Waterbox 40.2 AIO for the QT and running it bare bottom, just using the bioballs and Dr. Tim's One and Only to seed it. I think that this setup would both look good and be relatively easy to clean out as needed. I also hope to perform fewer water changes due to larger system volume.

I have an old Oceanic 57 with a sump and skimmer that I could set up, but I feel like that is serious overkill for a QT. Heck, I feel like the 40 is a bit of overkill, but I wouldn't be limited as far as future acquisitions.

I will almost certainly set up a frag tank with sump and skimmer to quarantine my new coral, though.

What are your thoughts? Am I going waaay overboard with the 40.2 (24" x 24" x 18")? Should I go with the 30.2 (24" x 18" x 18") or just a 40B instead? Appreciate your input!


Sounds great but the con is the amount of medication required to dose. For example, I have two 20 gallon QTs and when I treat them with Seachem Metroplex or Kanaplex at $8.00 per little vial which lasts only a few days of dosing it gets pricey.

The benefit though of a bigger tank is you can treat multiple fish at one time but that can be complicated if one fish can’t tolerate the medicine you are using.
 
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The problem with that much water volume on a QT will be the amount of medication you'll have to dose. Can be a little more costly. If you're QTinf multiple fish for the same treatments it works out a bit better, but I find that's rarely the case except for prophylactic treatments


Not certain that I understood your comment correctly, Zach. I had assumed that all fish in QT would be treated the same as they are sharing space. I am initially concerned primarily with QT'ing new fish prior to introducing them to the DT. Absolutely makes sense that eventually it will be used as a hospital tank more than a QT, I reckon.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I had read the thread on aerosol transmission, and noted that the study specified a dynamic atmosphere to carry that distance. Still, I was just thinking of having it in the same room in the basement. A lot of money is going into the DT so I figured having an eye sore in the vicinity would be a shame :)

I had not considered medication costs or the need to closely measure the volume of water. That stuff (meds) isn't cheap! Outstanding thinking there!!!
For what it's worth, and I'm only on my first batch of QTing fish, but most of the medications so far have come in big bottles and require measurements in milliliters. The only ones I could really see going up significantly with the size of the tank are if you're getting the prepackaged things like General Cure from API, or some of the powered SeaChem meds like Metro or Kanaplex. I have a 29 gallon QT running with 20 gallons of water so there's two scoops required, I haven't dented it yet but that one just seems the most likely to run out. Things like copper power come in such big bottles I feel like it'll last a while.
 
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Sounds great but the con is the amount of medication required to dose. For example, I have two 20 gallon QTs and when I treat them with Seachem Metroplex or Kanaplex at $8.00 per little vial which lasts only a few days of dosing it gets pricey.

The benefit though of a bigger tank is you can treat multiple fish at one time but that can be complicated if one fish can’t tolerate the medicine you are using.


It had not occurred to me that one fish would not be able to tolerate treatment required for another occupant... Thanks!
 

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Not certain that I understood your comment correctly, Zach. I had assumed that all fish in QT would be treated the same as they are sharing space. I am initially concerned primarily with QT'ing new fish prior to introducing them to the DT. Absolutely makes sense that eventually it will be used as a hospital tank more than a QT, I reckon.
If you QT prophylactically and properly the first time with everything wet you should hopefully have no reason to use it as a hospital tank unless a fish gets injured.
 
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For what it's worth, and I'm only on my first batch of QTing fish, but most of the medications so far have come in big bottles and require measurements in milliliters. The only ones I could really see going up significantly with the size of the tank are if you're getting the prepackaged things like General Cure from API, or some of the powered SeaChem meds like Metro or Kanaplex. I have a 29 gallon QT running with 20 gallons of water so there's two scoops required, I haven't dented it yet but that one just seems the most likely to run out. Things like copper power come in such big bottles I feel like it'll last a while.

was looking at some of the meds on BRS and my eyes were popping a bit... Much like the $8 vials of Metro mentioned above... ack... lol


Just looked again and it was the coral dip and flatworm treatment that I squeaked at...
 

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It had not occurred to me that one fish would not be able to tolerate treatment required for another occupant... Thanks!
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/

It would be easiest for you to treat similarly comparable species, but of course you need to take stocking order and many other things into account.
Medication isn't cheap, but I've found it's the least expensive part of the process so far and much less expensive than wiping out your whole fish population. I'd start with this list, and frankly since there's apparently a whole lot of issues in the supply line right now, get something to treat each possible category before you get your fish so you're not caught off guard, at least that's what I did and I was still missing something when I needed it. Don't forget to buy SeaChem Focus as well! Not cheap but also not sold in every LFS and when you need it you may not want to pay the crazy amazon price to get it there sooner. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.213574/

If I were to stock again from the beginning I'd get Prazi, Kana, Metro, and Focus, General Cure might be on my list because I have a smaller tank, but in your bigger tank it might be cheaper to buy Metro and Prazi separate, Methylene Blue, Copper Power, and a Hanna kit for copper. Depending on what fish you like, check that compatibility chart to see if it would be worth it for you to just use CP across the board.
 
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https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/

It would be easiest for you to treat similarly comparable species, but of course you need to take stocking order and many other things into account.
Medication isn't cheap, but I've found it's the least expensive part of the process so far and much less expensive than wiping out your whole fish population. I'd start with this list, and frankly since there's apparently a whole lot of issues in the supply line right now, get something to treat each possible category before you get your fish so you're not caught off guard, at least that's what I did and I was still missing something when I needed it. Don't forget to buy SeaChem Focus as well! Not cheap but also not sold in every LFS and when you need it you may not want to pay the crazy amazon price to get it there sooner. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/medications-to-keep-on-hand.213574/

Thanks so much! I really appreciate it!
 

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was looking at some of the meds on BRS and my eyes were popping a bit... Much like the $8 vials of Metro mentioned above... ack... lol


Just looked again and it was the coral dip and flatworm treatment that I squeaked at...
Yeah some of those tank additives can really get up there,I had to spend 17 to treat my tank for Bryopsis, not fun for 10 tiny pills. Take a look at petmountian.com, I haven't shopped there yet because whenever I go on I need things much sooner than their shipping will get it to me, but they've got some good prices.
 

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I can't recommend the Hanna copper checker enough if you plan on treating with copper. If you have the income for the waterbox for QT, I say go for it. Just know that if you try and sell it in the future, disclose that medications where used in the tank so the the future owner knows. It may deter potential buys because meds were used.
 
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I can't recommend the Hanna copper checker enough if you plan on treating with copper. If you have the income for the waterbox for QT, I say go for it. Just know that if you try and sell it in the future, disclose that medications where used in the tank so the the future owner knows. It may deter potential buys because meds were used.

Good thought. Would washing with Vinegar/Bleach not remove meds adequately?

Also, is the 40g too much volume? The 20g is less than half the price... Is the extra volume necessary? I'd imagine that most of my purchases will be young fish, and inherently small...
 

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Good thought. Would washing with Vinegar/Bleach not remove meds adequately?

Also, is the 40g too much volume? The 20g is less than half the price... Is the extra volume necessary? I'd imagine that most of my purchases will be young fish, and inherently small...
The silicone might absorb some of the meds and leach out later on. Vinegar and bleach only disinfect the QT tank, not remove meds

I currently have a 40b as my QT. It's a little much for a small amount fish but necessay for larger amounts and larger fish. Here a current pic of it

fd7759c40e7e5a2b6e75fa490a8ea5e9.jpg
 

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