Question regarding plumbing.

MitchellAJordan

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Just got into this hobby a little over 4 months ago and have completely fallen in love with it. I have a 20 gallon nano with some fish and some gsp and some zoanthids. Loving the hobby so much I decided to by a 60 gallon cube used I found for sale. The tank has an in tank overflow and a drilled bottom. One is 1" (for drain pipe assuming) and a 3/4" (and assuming this the return). My question is since my fx4 can filter has 1" tubing for both in and out am I going to have a problem if I reduce that 1" tube coming from the filter return down to the 3/4" where it returns to the tank? Found one video where a guy did this but wanted to ask on here for advice. I know a sump would be better but I already have an fx4 that's just been sitting here and want to use it. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
 

Brad Miller

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If I'm understanding you correctly, you're asking if you can reduce the size of the return just before it goes back to the tank.

This can be done easily, it would create a little extra head pressure on the pump which in turn would cause more water velocity at the exit point, but is ok.
 

theMeat

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Welcome to the site and the hobby

On a single pipe drain system air goes down the pipe with the water. Your canister filter is not going to work, or be highly problematic, unless you hang it over the top/rim as it is designed to
 

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I've used canister filters that I've plumbed with the inlet to a gravity fed bulkhead and discharge back to tank use like any other pump with no issues...guess it would all depend how you plumb it.

Edit... I see what your saying though about the air using a typical top overflow
 

theMeat

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I've used canister filters that I've plumbed with the inlet to a gravity fed bulkhead and discharge back to tank use like any other pump with no issues...guess it would all depend how you plumb it.

Edit... I see what your saying though about the air using a typical top overflow
Better have an auto top off, and not much gph going through canister, if it’s going to work at all
 
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MitchellAJordan

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Here's a video of the guy setting up an overflow with a canister. I have an fx4

I would go with a sump but honestly a little scared of them. I've watched video after video on them but all the videos explain it as if the people watching already know most of it including setup. Also seem like a little bigger investment (after buying a nice skimmer and return pump etc.) Thanks so much for the responses. So nice to be able to discuss these issues I have with knowledgeable hobbyists.
Let me know what you all think of the video.
Is a sump way easier than it seems?
Thanks again in advance.
 
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MitchellAJordan

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I think I'd reconsider the canister. It might have been ok on a 20, but it's going to have a really hard time with a 60. You might be better off sticking a 10 gallon tank under there with a filter sock and a return pump.
All I have on the 20 is an hob filter. Do a water change about every 2 weeks and haven't had a problem with the tank yet. Everything is healthy and happy. The canister I have i was going to use is an fx4. From what I've read and watched this will definitely handle 60 gallons. Would do a sump but takes up more room and is a little more complicated for me (never used one)
 
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MitchellAJordan

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Would this way take care of the gravity feeding issues you all think might be an issue?
I've used canister filters that I've plumbed with the inlet to a gravity fed bulkhead and discharge back to tank use like any other pump with no issues...guess it would all depend how you plumb it.

Edit... I see what your saying though about the air using a typical top overflow

I would assume that if I brought my filter intake pipe up a little above my water level in the overflow and put a 90 elbow and a 2" piece of pipe then 90 it back down into the overflow that that would be the same as running the filter intake hose over the edge of the aquarium and back into the tank (like the filter was meant to be setup) do you agree? Can send a video explaining what I mean if this doesn't make sense.
 

theMeat

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Just lower the drain pipe so it’s completely under water inside the overflow. Your basically creating a full siphon/closed loop that your canister needs to function. Drilling some holes low down on the pipe, inside the overflow box will help.

Tank water level is critical.

Yes a sump is easy. Certainly easier than what you’re doing with a canister.
 
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MitchellAJordan

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Just lower the drain pipe so it’s completely under water inside the overflow. Your basically creating a full siphon/closed loop that your canister needs to function. Drilling some holes low down on the pipe, inside the overflow box will help.

Tank water level is critical.

Yes a sump is easy. Certainly easier than what you’re doing with a canister.
Just have soooooo many questions about a sump I dont even know where to begin haha. One that comes to mind is what if my return pump takes a crap.... assuming my sump would just keep overflowing with the water from my tank?? Soo many more questions than that though. Any good video links explaining sumps in detail would be appreciated. Thanks for the info also.
 

W1ngz

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Sumps are easy. Granted, looking at videos they *look* complicated, but mostly that's because they're underneath, inside a closed cabinet, and a lot of stuff blocking camera angles. There's no good way to get the camera in a stand to see what all is going on. Simplify things, and just picture yourself with a tank with a pump and drain into it. Ignore all the other stuff like skimmers and reactors and all the tech, and you just have a tank where water flows down, and a pump that pumps it back up.
The other advantage especially with a cube, is that you have the chance to create 3 viewable sides each with an interdependent but distinct aquascape. A sump at least gives you somewhere out of sight to put your heaters instead of putting them up top.
 

W1ngz

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what if my return pump takes a crap.... assuming my sump would just keep overflowing with the water from my tank??

No, because with a corner overflow as well as plumbing inside the tank that is up high near the water line, only the top gallon or two can actually flow down. After that, the rest of the water can't flow up and over the baffle or plumbing. Your sump should never have more than about 1/2 the height filled with water, so it can easily take the gallon or two that will flow down when the pump is off.
 

theMeat

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Just have soooooo many questions about a sump I dont even know where to begin haha. One that comes to mind is what if my return pump takes a crap.... assuming my sump would just keep overflowing with the water from my tank?? Soo many more questions than that though. Any good video links explaining sumps in detail would be appreciated. Thanks for the info also.
https://www.google.com/search?q=aqu...hWQrFkKHZ_JBqgQ_AUoAnoECAwQAg&biw=375&bih=537

Don’t ya hate it when people say it’s easy. Yeah, it’s easy when you understand it, lol. These vids should help. Any question just ask.
For long term success and ease of maintenance a sump is the way to go. Sure you can have a successful tank with a canister, some do. The vast majority have a sump for good reasons.
Go to your lfs or local reefers house and ask them to explain would be the best way. Ask them to simulate a power outage, explain siphon break, sump layout/design. Not only easy but interesting and fun
 
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MitchellAJordan

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Ok. So pretty much starting to be sold on a sump instead of a canister. Do I have to get the skimmer right away or can I add that a month or so down the road AFTER my new 60 is cycled??
 

MikeW9788

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When I first started saltwater I used my fluval canister filter. Always had problems with algea and phosphates and nitrates. Turns out what worked in freshwater doesn't work all that great in saltwater. Canister filters are nitrate factories. It's when I set up my first tank with a sump that I saw the light and never looked back. With a sump you can actually export nutrients instead of just producing them. A skimmer, small ball of cheato with a cheap light and your good to go for long term success. Do a little research, it's not as hard as it seems. You can start with a 10 gal aquarium and add things to it as you go along.
 

theMeat

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You can get skimmer later, or maybe not needed at all. Just make sure your sump design has a place for it, with steady water level, Incase you want/need one
 

W1ngz

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Ok. So pretty much starting to be sold on a sump instead of a canister. Do I have to get the skimmer right away or can I add that a month or so down the road AFTER my new 60 is cycled??

You don't have to get a skimmer at all. Start as simple as you want, while leaving your options open for the future.

Just make sure that you figure out the maximum water volume you can have. The easiest way to do that is to fill the display until water just starts to run into the sump. Then fill the sump to the high water mark, or say about 80%. That way you know for sure when the pump stops, that's where the water stops.
 
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MitchellAJordan

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When I first started saltwater I used my fluval canister filter. Always had problems with algea and phosphates and nitrates. Turns out what worked in freshwater doesn't work all that great in saltwater. Canister filters are nitrate factories. It's when I set up my first tank with a sump that I saw the light and never looked back. With a sump you can actually export nutrients instead of just producing them. A skimmer, small ball of cheato with a cheap light and your good to go for long term success. Do a little research, it's not as hard as it seems. You can start with a 10 gal aquarium and add things to it as you go along.
Well consider me sold on a sump then. Do I have to drill a 3rd whole for a second drain? (Heard this method greatly reduces noise) or will I be ok with the 1" out and 3/4" input I have already drilled?
 

theMeat

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Well consider me sold on a sump then. Do I have to drill a 3rd whole for a second drain? (Heard this method greatly reduces noise) or will I be ok with the 1" out and 3/4" input I have already drilled?
You can drill another hole, or use the two holes you have now as drains, and use a hang over top as return from pump.
Yes, herbie or bean animal design plumbing is quieter, and safer
 

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