Raspberry limeade acropora not opening??

[reef2.0]

hi friends
I received a raspberry limeade acropora for my tank around 12/20/2022. We acclimated it according to procedure and the others we received with the order have flourished and begun to spread (they are different coral types). I was under the impression this coral wanted high light and high water flow placement, but it has been a few weeks and it doesn’t look as though any more parts are turning green. however, they are not blanching or completely dead, it seems like there are still organisms living on the skeleton BUT why is only the bottom section green? Below are the water measurements.

Salinity 1.026
pH 8.0
kH 10.8
Ammonia nitrate nitrite are undetectable
Temp 75.6 F
Take type: Reefer 265 with 2 Red Sea LED rs50 lights
Coral is approximately 12-14 inches below (on the highest rock almost directly below one of the LED lights)
(PICTURES ALSO attached for reference- click on them for clearer image)

does anyone have experience with this coral taking a long time to open up? I know it’s a picky coral but what is it doing/ what am I doing wrong?
Thank you!!

 

[keatonmjenkins]

Usually with new corals I always put them on the sand bed to let the accumulate first and then move them to higher PAR spots. What’s your PAR reading there?
Is your tank new?

 

[reef2.0]

Usually with new corals I always put them on the sand bed to let the accumulate first and then move them to higher PAR spots. What’s your PAR reading there?
Is your tank new?

The PAR right there is around 355. The color of the lighting is 18k. I started at mid level with this coral and then moved it up to that spot as I thought it’d want more light. The tank is just over 1 year old

 

[ScottB]

Two things: Biome maturity and insufficient nutrient levels for that high(er) alkalinity range.

If you started the system with live rock, I'd lean toward the latter. If a dead rock start, then the former. Could be both.

Nitrates need to be present as does measurable phosphates. Measure phosphates with a ULR Hanna.

 

[chipmunkofdoom2]

I wouldn't have any coral in 355 PAR so soon after adding to the tank. Research by Dana Riddle shows that some corals in the wild don't need any more than 100 PAR to reach maximum levels of photosynthesis. Even higher PAR corals who want more light max out in the low 300s. 250 PAR really is the sweet spot, even for high-light corals like Acropora. See some of his MACNA talks on Youtube for more info.

As Scott said, your alkalinity is pretty high. If you don't have high nutrients, that level of alkalinity can be problematic.

 

[reef2.0]

Two things: Biome maturity and insufficient nutrient levels for that high(er) alkalinity range.

If you started the system with live rock, I'd lean toward the latter. If a dead rock start, then the former. Could be both.

Nitrates need to be present as does measurable phosphates. Measure phosphates with a ULR Hanna.

@chipmunkofdoom2 and @ScottB

thank you for your replies.
Havent measured for phosphate but will. Started with live rock and live sand.
Reduced light output for 50% for blues and 40% for white.
Going to get a more accurate and real PAR meter (was using app on iphone) this weekend.

Question on alkalinity: I douse with All-For-Reef. Assumed that is driving the higher alkalinity. Should I back that off? Was just concerned I won’t get the trace elements. Also If I don’t have nitrates and phosphates what should I do - add more fish? Feed more?

 

[sdreef]

@chipmunkofdoom2 and @ScottB

thank you for your replies.
Havent measured for phosphate but will. Started with live rock and live sand.
Reduced light output for 50% for blues and 40% for white.
Going to get a more accurate and real PAR meter (was using app on iphone) this weekend.

Question on alkalinity: I douse with All-For-Reef. Assumed that is driving the higher alkalinity. Should I back that off? Was just concerned I won’t get the trace elements. Also If I don’t have nitrates and phosphates what should I do - add more fish? Feed more?

The alkalinity is high. I would prioritize alkalinity stability over all else for keeping acros. Trace elements are nearly as important. If it's really important for you tropic marin has the anionic and cationic trace elements in A- and K+.

Is that all for reef the only way you are supplementing alkalinity?

 

[reef2.0]

The alkalinity is high. I would prioritize alkalinity stability over all else for keeping acros. Trace elements are nearly as important. If it's really important for you tropic marin has the anionic and cationic trace elements in A- and K+.

Is that all for reef the only way you are supplementing alkalinity?

Yes the all for reef is the only additive. Just that and a little carbon.

 

[sdreef]

Yes the all for reef is the only additive. Just that and a little carbon.

I can't edit my last post, but I intended to say that trace elements are NOT nearly as important as alkalinity. Alk is the priority.

Thanks for clarifying. I'm not as familiar with adjustments for all for reef, but my recommendation would be to get the alkalinity down and stable. If tropic marin's recommendation for reducing alkalinity in this situation is to back off the amount of the all for reef, then that's what I would suggest.

Regarding you're original question, if I am understanding correctly, the other corals were non acros. It's possible the acro may have been stressed simply from the shipping. It could be stress from the difference in the water, flow and light parameters. It also could be it was placed in higher light while dealing with all the sources of stress. Difficult to say one cause, and is usually a combo of these issues. Did the coral initially look ok when you received it? You said you followed the acclimation procedures, did that involve a dip?

My approach would be to adjust and maintain the water chemistry, and in the future acclimate to your system more slowly.

 

[ScottB]

@chipmunkofdoom2 and @ScottB

thank you for your replies.
Havent measured for phosphate but will. Started with live rock and live sand.
Reduced light output for 50% for blues and 40% for white.
Going to get a more accurate and real PAR meter (was using app on iphone) this weekend.

Question on alkalinity: I douse with All-For-Reef. Assumed that is driving the higher alkalinity. Should I back that off? Was just concerned I won’t get the trace elements. Also If I don’t have nitrates and phosphates what should I do - add more fish? Feed more?

If you are doing water changes, your trace element needs can likely be met. I am always missing Iodine, but nobody seems to care.

Yes to both options: more fish and more food. Doesn't need to be rapid.