Restart or keep going

[radreef02]

Okay. Tank is 5m old. 1 year old rock.
New fish only about couple months old as my last batch got velvet and wiped out. The wrasses only remained

Debating a total restart or partial or keep going. Need opinions (I have all pests except nudibranchs & coral eating pests) so basic stuff that come without QT


Current livestock :
Regal tang, scopas, copperband, 4 chromis, 2 clowns, 2 wrasses

PLAN 1: Rip tank clean and bleach rocks to clear algae, aiptasia, and any pests

QT fish for 21d

QT coral (45d?) - 40/60breeder
1. Fallow in new tank with no rock and new water & HOB filter (pest-free)


2. IS IT SAFE TO TRANSFER ALL CORAL TO A BRAND NEW FRESH TANK WITH NO FISH DOSING NeoNitro & 20% weekly water changes (any advice on if I should nitrate dose)


Put clean rock and sand into DT and run for 30d no lights & no fish etc

Put fish on 30d and maybe turn on lights 30-60d in


My question is would it be dumb to restart a just now maturing tank ? Everything is running perfect but the pest and algae.
Tank has about every pest known to man and algae lol. I feel like I rushed my tank transfer..



Here was my tank
Jan. 50g cube
June (now) 100g 4ft

 

[Lavey29]

If you haven't dealt with your issues and learned why you are having difficulties then what will prevent the same problems arising again after a restart?

 

[Lavey29]

Everything in this hobby is the result of something the reefer did or did not do typically. Lights and flow have their primary functions but usually it's water chemistry and lack of husbandry manual and cleaners that seem to cause the most issues in a tank. Hence the reasons you now have all your algae and pest issues.

What will change after a restart to ensure you don't take one step forward and two steps back?

 

[threebuoys]

Lots of questions there.

Step one: place all of your fish into a QT large enough to contain them for 6 - 8 weeks. Follow the QT protocol described in the link below.

Step two: Allow your DT to remain fallow (no fish at all) for 6 - 8 weeks.

Step three: return the fish to the DT.

Step four: Do not add any new fish to the DT until after the full 30 day copper and 2 week prazi treatments are complete.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

It wasn’t clear to me. The fish themselves are fine though? You’re just dealing with reef tank pests like algae and Aiptasia? If so, I’d be tempted to just manage those ….

Jay

 

[Uncle99]

Nice tank, do not restart.
Just wait another 5 months and keep all those levels pinned and in normal bands.

Parasites don’t always kill every fish. If you suspect your system had a parasite infection, at this point, I’d just wait and see if anyone else catches that, otherwise just let everthing settle.


Aptasia can be wiped out with a filefish, but, remove him when finished. In that sized tank maybe a month? They are slow slow to start, but once they start, they are super efficient.

I’m not sure what others pests you may have.

Cyano and Dino’s are easily defeated these days, not sure if you have these pests.

The 50g looks great, but if you've moved up to 100g, stability could have been affected in the short term setting you back in time, but of course, it will recover quickly.

 

[radreef02]

Nice tank, do not restart.
Just wait another 5 months and keep all those levels pinned and in normal bands.

Parasites don’t always kill every fish. If you suspect your system had a parasite infection, at this point, I’d just wait and see if anyone else catches that, otherwise just let everthing settle.


Aptasia can be wiped out with a filefish, but, remove him when finished. In that sized tank maybe a month? They are slow slow to start, but once they start, they are super efficient.

I’m not sure what others pests you may have.

Cyano and Dino’s are easily defeated these days, not sure if you have these pests.

The 50g looks great, but if you've moved up to 100g, stability could have been affected in the short term setting you back in time, but of course, it will recover quickly.

My concern is that my blue tang and scopas keep getting ich on and off. both eat like crazy and are fat but it just keeps coming back and i'd hate to keep them for years and then have a temp swing and they die
I run a 15W aqua classic uv but lets be honest thats probably pointless on a 100g

I have aptasia, dino's, GHA (dieing off, very little now) , lots of tube worms, lots of spiroid worms , Ich

i'm not opposed to stripping the tank to make it new again and QT'ing all coral, but is that worth it just to get rid of some worms and aptasia in almost 6m old tank and 1yr rock LOL, probably not

I'm leaning towards QT fish only and let coral and rocks stay and manage those pests.
thanks for dealing with my rant. i am a newish father and i am busy at work so I don't want to get into to much that i cannot handle

 

[radreef02]

It wasn’t clear to me. The fish themselves are fine though? You’re just dealing with reef tank pests like algae and Aiptasia? If so, I’d be tempted to just manage those ….

Jay

unfortunately I do have ich in the system that comes and goes for many months

otherwise i agree

 

[MnFish1]

Okay. Tank is 5m old. 1 year old rock.
New fish only about couple months old as my last batch got velvet and wiped out. The wrasses only remained

Debating a total restart or partial or keep going. Need opinions (I have all pests except nudibranchs & coral eating pests) so basic stuff that come without QT


Current livestock :
Regal tang, scopas, copperband, 4 chromis, 2 clowns, 2 wrasses

PLAN 1: Rip tank clean and bleach rocks to clear algae, aiptasia, and any pests

QT fish for 21d

QT coral (45d?) - 40/60breeder
1. Fallow in new tank with no rock and new water & HOB filter (pest-free)


2. IS IT SAFE TO TRANSFER ALL CORAL TO A BRAND NEW FRESH TANK WITH NO FISH DOSING NeoNitro & 20% weekly water changes (any advice on if I should nitrate dose)


Put clean rock and sand into DT and run for 30d no lights & no fish etc

Put fish on 30d and maybe turn on lights 30-60d in


My question is would it be dumb to restart a just now maturing tank ? Everything is running perfect but the pest and algae.
Tank has about every pest known to man and algae lol. I feel like I rushed my tank transfer..



Here was my tank
Jan. 50g cube
June (now) 100g 4ft

Your tank looks fine. Would not recommend a 'rip clean' - or a 'restart'

 

[MnFish1]

My concern is that my blue tang and scopas keep getting ich on and off. both eat like crazy and are fat but it just keeps coming back and i'd hate to keep them for years and then have a temp swing and they die
I run a 15W aqua classic uv but lets be honest thats probably pointless on a 100g

I have aptasia, dino's, GHA (dieing off, very little now) , lots of tube worms, lots of spiroid worms , Ich

i'm not opposed to stripping the tank to make it new again and QT'ing all coral, but is that worth it just to get rid of some worms and aptasia in almost 6m old tank and 1yr rock LOL, probably not

I'm leaning towards QT fish only and let coral and rocks stay and manage those pests.
thanks for dealing with my rant. i am a newish father and i am busy at work so I don't want to get into to much that i cannot handle

IN that case - if you're concerned - take all of the fish out - leave the tank fallow for 45-76 days - depending on the protocol you want. Treat the fish with the typical quarantine protocol

 

[radreef02]

IN that case - if you're concerned - take all of the fish out - leave the tank fallow for 45-76 days - depending on the protocol you want. Treat the fish with the typical quarantine protocol

Going this route. I think 8-10w is doable for me. I need to do more research

Now I need advise on my stocking. I do plan on going into a larger system in 3-5 years so hence the interest in QT even more

I plan on doing 180g-250g for my final tank


New live stock plan:
Powder blue
Tomini tang

Melanarus wrasse
Corris wrasse

2 clowns
3 anthias (more or just 2?)

Thanks for any advice !