Return piping 2 options

[Geebs19]

Hey all,

So I just did my return piping and I think I made it way to complicated with to many turns. One pipe is feeding 2 return outlets and the flow is pretty poor.

Here was my first design

Here is what I think I may need to do so that there aren’t so many bends to slow the water down.

It’s a 100 gallon tank and my pump is rated at 692 gph. Also my loclines are just an open circle at the end, should they have a smaller piece to create pressure?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Geebs19]

Well I did the second option and it might be flowing a bit better but not a ton. Kind of comes out like an open garden hose.

 

[AdamNC]

It’s a 100 gallon tank and my pump is rated at 692 gph. Also my loclines are just an open circle at the end, should they have a smaller piece to create pressure?

Thanks in advance.

You can add these to spread out the flow. I use one on mine.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/loc-line-flare-nozzle.html

 

[zoasaholic]

Oh I just double check my plumbing again
I used the second picture with 45 degree for emergency drain
The main drain pipe need to be shorter than the emergency pipe
Been awhile sorry
Something like this

 

[James Mikell]

You need a more powerful pump. 692 gph is at the exit of the pump. Once you account for head loss you are probably getting closer to 450 and then split that since you have 2 return nozzles.

 

[Cjud7982]

I would agree with the above. 100 gallon tank and assuming about 5 feet of head will need a lot bigger pump, especially with 2 return lines. The flare nozzles are good at directing flow. Necking down the line will just increase pressure not add flow, and the increase in pressure will actually reduce flow. I like to size my return pumps for at least 10 to 15x turn over rate then dial it back to make the sump efficient. As long as your sump is doing a good job pulling nutrients add a power head or two for tank flow. I used to think you needed a ton of flow from sump to display but recently realized how much better my skimmers and chaeto like the slower flow.

 

[Geebs19]

Here was my final design. I didnt like the last one where a white T was visible from the top of the overflow. With this design I am reusing the 90 degrees into the returns on each side that are black and no white PVC is visible.

I also agree that I need to get a bigger pump. This one will just have to do for now until I cna upgrade. I have 2 power heads that I am going to be able to use as well.

 

[hart24601]

FWIW I read in the book "the art of the reef aquarium" to never directly T off returns so the water has to make a 90 degree turn. They said to put a T off the side with a valve to adjust the flow. I have done this on all my tanks and it seems to work well.

 

[Geebs19]

FWIW I read in the book "the art of the reef aquarium" to never directly T off returns so the water has to make a 90 degree turn. They said to put a T off the side with a valve to adjust the flow. I have done this on all my tanks and it seems to work well.

I guess I am confused on this, how would I still get 2 returns out of the top from only one return line?

 

[hart24601]

Sorry for explaining it poorly. You have a T but the flow doesn't hit the middle of the T. Like a T on the side with a valve to regulate the flow.

 

[roberthu526]

I did the first design and it works just fine.

 

[hart24601]

I did the first design and it works just fine.

I don't think the book is advocating it won't work, however they say it reduces flow by increasing the head pressure which I have not personally tested so I don't know what impact it will have, but seeing as the OP was disanointed in the flow rate I thought it might be worth while to reference. FYI I think the "incorrect" way is very common, by far most the threads have plumbing installed that way and I would have too if I didn't read that book.

 

[roberthu526]

I don't think the book is advocating it won't work, however they say it reduces flow by increasing the head pressure which I have not personally tested so I don't know what impact it will have, but seeing as the OP was disanointed in the flow rate I thought it might be worth while to reference. FYI I think the "incorrect" way is very common, by far most the threads have plumbing installed that way and I would have too if I didn't read that book.

I think one thing very important is not to reduce the diameters before the T. I used 1.25” all the way to the T and reduced to 1” after T, then reduced again to 3/4” when the pipes reach the return holes.

 

[drtrash]

Makes scense on the T, i would of done it the first way as i have seen many times on here with no negative comments, will have to rethink my new return