RO/DI questions

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

1) I had to order the pressure pump as I was only getting 30 pounds of pressure. Questions: Maybe I am an idiot but how do you use that tool to get the murlock connectors off? As you can see from the video I put couplers to have the water flow through the pump correctly, it was late and I simply gave up, I just can't get them apart. Next Q: I noticed the last 3 water changes I have gotten diatoms and then they would go away, almost like clockwork. With the low pressure could silicates have been slipping through? Or, is the stage 4 kit not good at catching silicates? I was thinking about adding this to my system - Dual DI Phosphate CO2 & Silica Eliminator with DM-1 Dual TDS Meter, thoughts?

2) Check out the video. My Brute container filled up and the float shut the switch off. But the pressure switch never shut the motor down. In fact, it sounds like this mustang I use to have after I put a really sick cam in it, miss that car... Could I have put the switch in backwards? Those dang murlocks, and I have no more couplers! What am I doing wrong? Also, I will make it look better, but just trying to do a dry run to make sure it's good to go and then I will make it all nice. Thoughts?

 

[glb]

Hi. I couldn’t see your video. I think YouTube works on R2R? Also, Hanna Checker makes a silica test if you’re curious. Have a great day!

 

[dangles]

As far as the pump not shutting off, there’s a tiny set-screw on the pressure switch that adjusts the pressure it shuts off at. Maybe try that? Mine would turn on randomly and the BRS support guys told me about it.

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

As far as the pump not shutting off, there’s a tiny set-screw on the pressure switch that adjusts the pressure it shuts off at. Maybe try that? Mine would turn on randomly and the BRS support guys told me about it.

Here is the video -

 

[WhatCouldGoWrong71]

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[William Toohill]

To disassemble the murlock Connectors, push the line in and the little White or Black collar, push in also, holding the collar in and pulling on the line out and it should come apart. Yes there is a small set screw to adjust the pressure that the switch turns the pump on and off based on the pressure you have it set for . Screwing the set screw in will increase the pressure and backing the screw out will decrease the pressure.

 

[Bulk Reef Supply]

Hey There!
For push-to-connect fittings like found on the booster pump and RODI fittings, you'll want to first push the tubing into the fitting along with the collar piece, then while holding the collar down pull the tubing out. This should allow the tubing to come out for you to adjust it as needed.

As far as the booster pump, the pump itself has a pressure adjustment screw on top which you can use to increase or decrease the pressure it provides to the system. The pressure switch also has this screw so you can adjust the point at which it turns off. I'd adjust the pressure switch back so that it'll trigger the pump to turn off at a lower pressure and you should see this happen automatically when the float valve turns the RODI off. If issues persist after adjustment, let our support team know so they can get a replacement pressure switch for you.

When it comes to RODI water, lower water pressure can mean more contaminants get through, and silicates are one of the more difficult things to remove from the water even with DI resin. I would see if the issue persists with the improved water pressure, and if it does and you find silicates are still getting through your RODI, then adding a second stage of DI will help remove them. Sometimes concentrations of the silicates can be too high from your source water that 1 stage can't catch it all in one go.