RS Coral Pro Salt for new tank

jaypladook

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Hi, this is Jay from Thailand. English is not my first language, so please bear with me :)

My reef tank started since late September 2023, it is around 4 months old now. And have been gathering knowledge/information from R2R since then (I cannot thank you all enough). I began this hobby by ordering a custom tank of 48" * 20" * 30" (tall).

It took me 3 weeks to complete the cycle with real live rocks purchased from a local fish market, added fish and beginner friendly corals at 1 month mark. The first 3 months I was using some local salt brand from low grade (cause I had to perform large WC at the end of cycle right?) to higher grade after completed the cycle (still a local brand).

At the end of month 3, I was sure that I could at least keep all of my coral alive then started noticing that their color is somewhat fading. That is when I decided to use RS Coral Pro salt. Here is my parameters before changing salt brand. (had not tested Potassium yet).

1. December 2023.png


Until today, there has been 3 water changes of RS Coral Pro at about 80 litres (13%) per time. I notice right away on the drastic increase in major elements from test results but hoping that things will change overtime. Then, kindly look at the latest result after one month.

2. January 2024.png


My worry is with the CA and MG that seem to be higher than what most people recommend. I have been thinking that this must be the salt itself that has too much elements in it. Therefore, this morning I decided to mix a small amount of the RS Coral Pro in a 500 ml. container with salinity 35 ppt this morning. The result is the main reason why I am writing this post.

Calcium: 290
Magnesium: 570
KH: 8.6

This seem very low while my original issue was the high number in test readings, so I am lost here!

All parameters are tested with Salifert kits at least twice or thrice as I could not believe the result myself, but they showed the same result anyway.
I also worried if I had not mix the salt well enough so I kept testing the salinity every time before each tests, still remain at 35 ppt. throughout.

I spent the whole morning thinking of a reason to support these results and decided to not blame the salt. And finally here are my three questions based on random assumption:

1. Is it possible that the test results are affected by the RO water that I am using? I could not find RO/DI at the nearby store. And yes, I know I will be able to find one if I try hard enough.

2. Is it because my tank is too new, resulting in all kinds of unpredictable water parameters?

3. Is there any suggestion on what I should do to reduce CA & MG or any of you had similar experience on this?

So far all corals (still a bit faded, but I guess that must be low Potassium which has been resolved) and fish are fine.

Tank capacity: 580 Litres / approx. 150 USG (including sump)
Temp: 26 degree Celsius / 78.8 Fahrenheit
Fish population: 15 (Clowns, Tangs, Chromis, Damsel, and Foxface)
Coral population: more than 50 of small to medium sized ones, mixture of soft + LPS + SPS
Rocks: started with lots of real live rock
Substrate: none
Source of water: RO (NOT DI)
Equipment: Return pump at x10 per hour, 5 power heads, 2 Noo-Psyche 150w lights set at more blue, 3 after market lights set as more white for viewing reasons, refugium & macro algae reactor, C7 skimmer, and Zeovit reactor (dose with ZeoStart3 once in a while, this used to be for bio pellets but since Nitrate is low, I removed bio pellets a few weeks ago).
Test kits: all Saliferts
Daily dosing: Phyto and Zoo plankton from bottle, Red Sea AB+, and Potassium+ trying to keep at 400
Food: mixture of pellets and frozen

Here is a picture of my tank.

Tank Jan 24.jpg

Apologies if this is too much information and Thank you very much in advance :D
 
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Ron Reefman

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Here is my take on your questions.

1. Is it possible that the test results are affected by the RO water that I am using? I could not find RO/DI at the nearby store. And yes, I know I will be able to find one if I try hard enough.

It's possible, but IMHO unlikely. RO only water still should not effect Ca, Mg or alk parameters. Those should be 99.( % due to the salt mix.

2. Is it because my tank is too new, resulting in all kinds of unpredictable water parameters?

Again, I seriously doubt it. A 150g tank should be quite stable.

3. Is there any suggestion on what I should do to reduce CA & MG or any of you had similar experience on this?

Don't get too tied into keeping parameters where 'everybody' says they should be. I have a 40g cube aio tank. It is all sps and lps corals, some anemones, a coral banded shrimp and some CUC. There are no fish.

I use IO Reef Crystals salt and I keep my tank parameters like this:
Ca at 40 to 425
alk at 9.5 to 11.0 dKH
Mg at 1200 to 1500
SG at 1.025 to 1.027
Temp at 80F
I don't even consider pH, nitrates or phosphates

I've been running parameters like these for 20+ years in various tanks.

My concern is with the testing you did on the smaller sample of water. Those numbers look WAY off. Try mixing a full size water change amount and test it before you do the water change. AND test the tank before and after the water change to see what happens.

Good luck.
 

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What is the phosphate level? Nitrate seemed very low. You may want to feed more or dose more reef energy ab+.
 

Js.Aqua.Project

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I believe RS Coral Pro recommends a salinity of 34ppt to achieve the levels stated on the bucket/bag/box of 450 Ca, 1350 Mag, and 11.5 dKH.

When mixing a really small batch like you did in only doing 500ml you're going to get more inconsistent results. Red Sea also is only going to swear by those values across the whole container you purchased.

I would also recommend looking up the MyBatch results for the container you purchased and see what they are claiming the exact values should be.
 
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jaypladook

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Here is my take on your questions.

1. Is it possible that the test results are affected by the RO water that I am using? I could not find RO/DI at the nearby store. And yes, I know I will be able to find one if I try hard enough.

It's possible, but IMHO unlikely. RO only water still should not effect Ca, Mg or alk parameters. Those should be 99.( % due to the salt mix.

2. Is it because my tank is too new, resulting in all kinds of unpredictable water parameters?

Again, I seriously doubt it. A 150g tank should be quite stable.

3. Is there any suggestion on what I should do to reduce CA & MG or any of you had similar experience on this?

Don't get too tied into keeping parameters where 'everybody' says they should be. I have a 40g cube aio tank. It is all sps and lps corals, some anemones, a coral banded shrimp and some CUC. There are no fish.

I use IO Reef Crystals salt and I keep my tank parameters like this:
Ca at 40 to 425
alk at 9.5 to 11.0 dKH
Mg at 1200 to 1500
SG at 1.025 to 1.027
Temp at 80F
I don't even consider pH, nitrates or phosphates

I've been running parameters like these for 20+ years in various tanks.

My concern is with the testing you did on the smaller sample of water. Those numbers look WAY off. Try mixing a full size water change amount and test it before you do the water change. AND test the tank before and after the water change to see what happens.

Good luck.
Thank you Ron for your input. I will definitely test the water again during my next full size water change.

Please allow me to ask further about your tank. How do you normally feed the coral when there is no fish? How does it work in the absence of natural fish's waste?

Because I may take this option in the future, my sister keeps naming the fish and get really really sad when some of them died :(
 
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jaypladook

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What is the phosphate level? Nitrate seemed very low. You may want to feed more or dose more reef energy ab+.
I do not test phosphate (yet) will order the test kit soon to see if there is any issue. I currently feed reef energy ab+ at half of recommended dose because when I started with the full dose, there was an algae bloom (light brown ones easily visible on the side glass).
 

Ron Reefman

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Thank you Ron for your input. I will definitely test the water again during my next full size water change.

Please allow me to ask further about your tank. How do you normally feed the coral when there is no fish? How does it work in the absence of natural fish's waste?

Because I may take this option in the future, my sister keeps naming the fish and get really really sad when some of them died :(
I do have a coral banded shrimp, 2 sea stars, 6 anemones and various snails and hermit crabs. They get fed about once every 4 to 7 days. I spot feed some meaty food to the anemones. I also feed some flake food and small granular food all around the tank. I assume my lighting is enough to keep the corals and their zooxanthellae happy and the general feeding is enough.

To be perfectly honest, I've been surprised at how little I need to feed. If I feed and the stars don't come out, I assume I've been feeding more than enough. If they do come out for food, I'll feed a bit extra. And in 18 months, I haven't lost any animals except for some 'normal' die off of snails.

My local collection tank gets a bit more food because of the 2 clowns and the 3" mantis shrimp. But even that tank only gets fed every 3 or 4 days. The clowns have been in the tank for over a year and look perfectly healthy.

BTW, as somebody said before, your English is excellent! And I'm happy to help in any way I can.
 
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jaypladook

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What is the phosphate level? Nitrate seemed very low. You may want to feed more or dose more reef energy ab+.
I finally got to test phosphate, it is at 1.0 at the moment. So new issue arises :D

BTW I have mixed an 80 Litres of RS Coral Pro for WC and tested the new water in comparison with the prior mentioned problem of low values:

Calcium = way beyond 500 as 500 is the limitation of Salifert test kit

Magnesium = 1,500

KH = 9.3

Just bought a pack of Seachem Phosguard and hope that it will reduce the PO4.

Gratitude for all the replies and ideas!!
 

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