Scratching my head???

[Dburr1014]

Sooooooo . Not very good results/ more confused than ever .

salinity 1.026 with refractometer
Salinity 1.024 Hanna digital

magnesium 1650 ( I saw on Instagram hanna said there was an issue with the reagents but I haven’t researched yet )

calcium ( unable to test I ran out of regant ordering more tonight)

alkalinity. 1st test 15.6. 2nd test 7.9

I don’t think it’s mixed properly I can still see solids floating in the top water column. I had my pump at the bottom so the salt doesn’t settle at the bottom but apparently it’s not mixing the top well so I moved the pump half way up and I’ll check tomorrow night and retest everything.

I would assume an qps 16 at full power should mix a 30 gallon brute can though? Not sure why the water is still not crystal clear after 36+ hours ?

also not sure why two drastic alkalinity results minutes apart .

anyway not good results I’ll test again tomorrow. Do you see any point in testing nitrates or phosphate in a new batch of water ? Or skip it ?

Super confused reefer

Thank you

Did you happen to mix the dry salt before using it? It does settle some.

 

[czoolander]

Did you happen to mix the dry salt before using it? It does settle some.

Nope . I opened a brand new bucket scooped in my cup and leveled the top than slowly pour into the water . I didn’t know the salt had to be mixed as well ?

 

[homer1475]

I simply rinse out with tap water, and store with tap water in them. Haven't had an issue in as many years as I have been using them.

With that being said, I do rinse them out with tank water three times before filling for testing. My thinking is to get all the tap water out( I only use 10ml 3 times to rinse them), and to only have sample water in the cuvette.

I did notice early on, that if they were stored dry, they would get a "scum"(for lack of a better term) after they dried out, and my readings were skewed.

 

[homer1475]

Nope . I opened a brand new bucket scooped in my cup and leveled the top than slowly pour into the water . I didn’t know the salt had to be mixed as well ?

BRS did a video a few years back about stratification(elements fall out of suspension and settle to the bottom of the bucket).

It does happen, and buckets of salt should be rolled around and shaken to mix up the salt on first usage.

 

[czoolander]

I simply rinse out with tap water, and store with tap water in them. Haven't had an issue in as many years as I have been using them.

With that being said, I do rinse them out with tank water three times before filling for testing. My thinking is to get all the tap water out( I only use 10ml 3 times to rinse them), and to only have sample water in the cuvette.

I did notice early on, that if they were stored dry, they would get a "scum"(for lack of a better term) after they dried out, and my readings were skewed.

Ok I will try this method tonight!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I really hate having to put in work for Hanna’s error . I have to fill a form and all this nonsense I’ve spent over $800

ok I had it mixing all night . I’ll turn off the powerheads today while I work .

can the water go stagnant with no pump running? If so how long can you leave mixed water in a brute can with no pumps running?

That salt mix is fine stored unstirred.

 

[gbru316]

Yeah I totally would use the titration tests and I started out that way using them but I’m colour blind . Well I see colours but not like everyone else . The test with the numbers in the circles ….. yeah I don’t see numbers.
So I said I’m going digital for everything and was really hoping that they would be accurate and trustworthy results.

I will get some gloves for testing as you mention fingerprints. I have been bare handed .

I’ll try also to get specific tests tubes and syringe for each test . I do clean all equipment after testing but for sure I mix them up each time .

Is there a piece of equipment or controller that just tests all peramiters in your tank ? Money isn’t an option I am just frustrated with testing by hand each peramiters and getting unreliable results either from my own error or faulty equipment

1. No need for gloves when handling cuvettes, just give 'em a wipe before inserting into the checker

2. Can you detect color changes? I'm not talking about comparing a shade of pink in a test tube to a different shade of pink shape on a piece of paper. Rather, if you're looking at something and it changes from pink to grey in an instant - can you tell?

3. I'm really happy with my Apex/Trident combo. It's not without it's quirks (and I'm not entirely sold on it's accuracy), but it's precise enough which makes it great for seeing trends -- which is what matters. Don't chase numbers -- get your tank healthy, then record the numbers associated with that and try to stay there. There's also the GHL Ion director and a few other automated testing options.

One thing to note: I wouldn't call the equipment "faulty," you just need to understand the limitations. It's hobbyist grade -- which means it's "good enough." If you're after accurate, precise quantitative data, lab analysis or lab-grade equipment is needed.

 

[czoolander]

That salt mix is fine stored unstirred.

Sorry that top part was some frustration about the hanna magnesisum checker regants not meant to send to anyone . Not sure why it sent that it was supposed to be deleted haha

 

[czoolander]

1. No need for gloves when handling cuvettes, just give 'em a wipe before inserting into the checker

2. Can you detect color changes? I'm not talking about comparing a shade of pink in a test tube to a different shade of pink shape on a piece of paper. Rather, if you're looking at something and it changes from pink to grey in an instant - can you tell?

3. I'm really happy with my Apex/Trident combo. It's not without it's quirks (and I'm not entirely sold on it's accuracy), but it's precise enough which makes it great for seeing trends -- which is what matters. Don't chase numbers -- get your tank healthy, then record the numbers associated with that and try to stay there. There's also the GHL Ion director and a few other automated testing options.

One thing to note: I wouldn't call the equipment "faulty," you just need to understand the limitations. It's hobbyist grade -- which means it's "good enough." If you're after accurate, precise quantitative data, lab analysis or lab-grade equipment is needed.

1. Oh ok yeah I have been wiping them with a cloth after handling but I still see crystals on the inside of the tube before I test. im going to try filling them with RODI water in between tests then empty. then rinse in tank water 3-5 times as another poster suggested maybe that will help ?

2. So I can see difference between red and blue . yellow and pink. The trouble lies in yes different shades of the same colour . Or colours close . Brown and Red , Red and Green , orange and red . hard to explain .
So your question I could tell the difference if its a distinct pink or a distinct purple . But sometimes grey and pink are so close for me. I called a pair of mens golf shoes the other day pink and my wife is like ummmmm that's grey . its a struggle haha

3. ill look into a apex / trident combo. Is that what you would recommend for me?

True maybe not faulty but its frustrating when you wait for a magnesium tester for months and finally get it and the product is defective..... uggh

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I really hate having to put in work for Hanna’s error . I have to fill a form and all this nonsense I’ve spent over $800

ok I had it mixing all night . I’ll turn off the powerheads today while I work .

can the water go stagnant with no pump running? If so how long can you leave mixed water in a brute can with no pumps running?

I sure hope you didn’t spend $800 on a Hanna Mag checker! It must be the Luis Vuitton version! Ha These things happen in every industry. I would try not to get frustrated over it, it will just drive you mad. As far as the salt mixing, it’s somewhat normal depending on brand/version to have a little precipitant after mixing. I would say it’s not normal to have a lot of undissolved solids. A lot of us store mixed saltwater for a month without issue.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I also sometimes notice little crystals on the inside of the glass is this salt from the test water ? Even after rinsing them out 5-6 times . Is there a proper process for cleaning these tiny tubes ? I was even considering buying a small dishwasher that would never run soap through only water . Everything is on the table at this point no bad ideas haha

If the curvette, glass sample tube, has anything on the inside you can clean it with vinegar or citric acid. You should have one of those on hand a all times for general cleaning of pretty much everything. If you rinse you vials after performing a test you can fill them with rodi and store them full. This keeps them spotless.

edit..use a microfiber cloth to wipe the outside of the vial before placing it in the checker. Do not dry your microfiber towels with fabric sheets like bounce. It coats them and will leave a hazy residue on the glass. Eventually the 10ml line on the vial will rub off. It’s not really 10ml anyway, use a 10ml syringe to fill them that way your always using the same amount of fluid. I’ve noticed, like others have mentioned, that the lines can be off from vial to vial. So if you use different vials at different times, you can get different readings.

 

[czoolander]

I sure hope you didn’t spend $800 on a Hanna Mag checker! It must be the Luis Vuitton version! Ha These things happen in every industry. I would try not to get frustrated over it, it will just drive you mad. As far as the salt mixing, it’s somewhat normal depending on brand/version to have a little precipitant after mixing. I would say it’s not normal to have a lot of undissolved solids. A lot of us store mixed saltwater for a month without issue.

haha that was a beginning of a rant that I bailed out on I thought whats the point? Anyway apparently on this site if you type a response but don't send then reply on another post it will post your unfinished posts . weird ??

So no , not $800 on the magnesium checker. But I have the hanna , salinity, magnesium, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate and nitrate. soon to be buying PH and Iodine . Plus regants yeah im probably north of $800 on hanna equipment . So very disappointing to hear this magnesium is giving faulty readings.

WHen you store your mixed saltwater is it in motion? or just sitting? I just always run the pump in the brute can but maybe this is incorrect ??

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

haha that was a beginning of a rant that I bailed out on I thought whats the point? Anyway apparently on this site if you type a response but don't send then reply on another post it will post your unfinished posts . weird ??

So no , not $800 on the magnesium checker. But I have the hanna , salinity, magnesium, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate and nitrate. soon to be buying PH and Iodine . Plus regants yeah im probably north of $800 on hanna equipment . So very disappointing to hear this magnesium is giving faulty readings.

WHen you store your mixed saltwater is it in motion? or just sitting? I just always run the pump in the brute can but maybe this is incorrect ??

I’m legally blind and have done that exact post thing many times. People probably think I’m sniffing glue again. Once mixed, I store it without flow for the most part. I have a pump automatically kick on for 30 minutes every night just for craps and giggles. I’ve noticed it help keep my storage container cleaner

 

[czoolander]

If the curvette, glass sample tube, has anything on the inside you can clean it with vinegar or citric acid. You should have one of those on hand a all times for general cleaning of pretty much everything. If you rinse you vials after performing a test you can fill them with rodi and store them full. This keeps them spotless.

edit..use a microfiber cloth to wipe the outside of the vial before placing it in the checker. Do not dry your microfiber towels with fabric sheets like bounce. It coats them and will leave a hazy residue on the glass. Eventually the 10ml line on the vial will rub off. It’s not really 10ml anyway, use a 10ml syringe to fill them that way your always using the same amount of fluid. I’ve noticed, like others have mentioned, that the lines can be off from vial to vial. So if you use different vials at different times, you can get different readings.

OK ill look into buying a microfiber cloth or two .

So if the 10 ml line on the vial varies tube to tube. how do we know the syringe is 10 ml? there seems to be lots of variance on what should be a fairly accurate unit of measurement. I also notice on the syringe it will say 5 ml and mark each 1 ml line however at the end there is a space that is not included . Is this factored into the measurement ?

I might start inventing accurate measuring devices this is getting frustrating haha

 

[czoolander]

I’m legally blind and have done that exact post thing many times. People probably think I’m sniffing glue again. Once mixed, I store it without flow for the most part. I have a pump automatically kick on for 30 minutes every night just for craps and giggles. I’ve noticed it help keep my storage container cleaner

I turned the pump off today while I am at work . Pump was running all night.

Should be mixed and settled when I get home to test peramiters !

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

OK ill look into buying a microfiber cloth or two .

So if the 10 ml line on the vial varies tube to tube. how do we know the syringe is 10 ml? there seems to be lots of variance on what should be a fairly accurate unit of measurement. I also notice on the syringe it will say 5 ml and mark each 1 ml line however at the end there is a space that is not included . Is this factored into the measurement ?

I might start inventing accurate measuring devices this is getting frustrating haha

As long as your using the same syringe and the same mark it doesn’t really matter. It’s the consistency your looking for. Repeatability. It doesn’t really matter if is 9.7ml or 10.3ml as long as it’s the same every time.

edit..they do have pipettes that you can set to a specific amount. They work out great if you can’t see, like me. Not exactly cheap though.

 

[czoolander]

As long as your using the same syringe and the same mark it doesn’t really matter. It’s the consistency your looking for. Repeatability. It doesn’t really matter if is 9.7ml or 10.3ml as long as it’s the same every time.

edit..they do have pipettes that you can set to a specific amount. They work out great if you can’t see, like me. Not exactly cheap though.

good advice I am getting , thank you !

 

[Onixom]

Wondering why my tank is not thriving when by all signs it should be doing much better then its doing. My tank is 2.5 years old now . 109 gallon display with a 30 gallon sump . Started with dry rock . Used Red sea salt for first year slowly switched over 20 gallons at a time and have been using brightwell salt ever since. I have 2 - Mp40 pumps for flow and 3 - Red Sea LED 90 lights. Ill post my last peramiters below June 19 and then in brackets what my range for peramiters is over the last year

Calcium 509 ( 450-530) I seem to get a different calcium reading every week with no dosing
Magnesium 1530 (1450-1530) again seem to get a different reading every week and no dosing
Nitrates 18.1 ( 10-25 ) depending on when I do my water changes
Phosphate .03 ( 0.00-0.05) again depending on water changes
Alk 8.7 (8.5 -9.5) I started testing and dosing for this over the last 4 months and now my range is a little tighter 8.5-8.9
Tempature 78.9
Salinity 1.025

I still have corals dying once in awhile . Other corals not growing. Sometimes I see major days or weeks of growth in corals and encrusting . Sometimes I see coralline algea going crazy and I have to scrape it . other periods my coralline is retreating and dying.

The fish through all of this are happy and healthy but for the life of me I cant keep all my corals alive and growing......

What am I missing here ??? Any positive help is welcomed don't come in with sarcastic or negative comments because I am new to reefing and make mistakes

Thanks !!!

Just wondering as its one my LFS told me a few months ago.
Are you dosing Iodine? Apparently some corals bennifit from it (I had a xenia that shrivelled up as i didnt know about iodine, started dosing and it perked up)
This is the one I bought qnd it seemed to work (might in your case aswell?)

 

[czoolander]

Just wondering as its one my LFS told me a few months ago.
Are you dosing Iodine? Apparently some corals bennifit from it (I had a xenia that shrivelled up as i didnt know about iodine, started dosing and it perked up)
This is the one I bought qnd it seemed to work (might in your case aswell?)

I do have two similar products.

one is a red sea straight iodide or iodine I cant remember which that I dose occasionally.

the other is a Iodine or iodide and trace elements in one .

I am hesitant on dosing both and only do infrequently because I have no way of measuring any of the product . trace elements or Iodine at this point.

I am probably low on all of them but I have no way of knowing I could be high too

I think im probably long overdue for a ICP test . Just hesitant I guess as im not sure how complicated the process is

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Just wondering as its one my LFS told me a few months ago.
Are you dosing Iodine? Apparently some corals bennifit from it (I had a xenia that shrivelled up as i didnt know about iodine, started dosing and it perked up)
This is the one I bought qnd it seemed to work (might in your case aswell?)

I would note that that product contains lots of components, so it is not really evidence of the utility of iodine specifically (which never seemed useful in my tank, nor is there a known need for iodine in the published scientific literature for most corals).

“Coral Elements•N vitamin and mineral micronutrient complex replaces crucial minor and trace minerals lost to carbon filtration, protein skimming and ozone and provides essential vitamins for growth of live corals and other invertebrates.”

I do not actually see iodine mentioned. Do you know that it contains iodine?

Continuum Aquatics | coral elements•N