Is there plenty of circulation on the surface of the water?I'm personally hoping the incorrect ph is just me failing to even soak it at all.
I got hung-up on other things and didn't really think when I did that.
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Is there plenty of circulation on the surface of the water?I'm personally hoping the incorrect ph is just me failing to even soak it at all.
I got hung-up on other things and didn't really think when I did that.
PS - I just wanted to make something clear that I said previously - 1. I think your tank is ok from a cycle standpoint. 2. I'm glad that you found the potential error in the way your Seneye was set up. 3. I'm sure its impossible to buy confirmatory test kits in your time zone on a Sunday - so I would carefully watch the fish in the meantime. 4. Tomorrow I would get a pH, Alkalinity, Ca Nitrate test (just simple ones) and check those parameters. If you're wanting to help verify your ammonia status (which like I said is probably ok) - a seachem alert badge will help to at least make sure there is no ammonia problem (a free ammonia problem) - and you could also get a liquid ammonia test.Can you stop?
I'm worried about my fish and all you care about is your dang'ed gold-******** cycle knowledge.
I have a potential ph problem and your paragraphs are doing nothing but complicating matters. I personally hold you responsible for writing such confusing non-sense and straight up giving information to ignore certain parametres.
If you can't be concise AND helpful, then at least let others try.
PS - sorry to interject - to @SC017 - the reason for this is - the main reason for a low pH - is Carbon dioxide in the air. For example - if all of our windows are open - the pH in my tank is probably 8.1. When we turn on the air conditioner on - (and the windows are closed - and people are breathing out CO2) the pH can drop to 7.8 - or lower (especially at night) - on a day to day basis. So - if you do indeed have a lower pH - one of the best ways to increase it slowly - and naturally - is to open a window near the tank - even slightly - and make sure that your circulation especially at the surface is adequate.Is there plenty of circulation on the surface of the water?
Yes, I have a wavemaker directed at the surface.Is there plenty of circulation on the surface of the water?
I don't blame you for it.4. Tomorrow I would get a pH, Alkalinity, Ca Nitrate test (just simple ones) and check those parameters. If you're wanting to help verify your ammonia status (which like I said is probably ok) - a seachem alert badge will help to at least make sure there is no ammonia problem (a free ammonia problem) - and you could also get a liquid ammonia test.
Sorry for the bickering - I just wanted to make sure you were seeing the trees in the forest so to speak.
Though some will say 'no' - I use API - and have for years. The KEY is following the directions exactly. If they say 'shake for 10 seconds' - dont shake for 20 seconds, etc. etc. They are not as 'precise' as a Seneye - i.e. the graduations of alkalinity are 1 dKH rather than. .01 DKH. But they are good enough to show you what you need to know. There is (at least in the states) - an API Master Reef Kit - which bundles many of the tests into one carrying case - and is relatively inexpensive. It includes nitrate - but not ammonia or nitrite OR pH - they need to be bought separately. In addition - it includes Ca, and Phosphate. When you go to your LFS - and ask for the test kits, make sure whatever brand - for the ammonia, nitrite, pH - that they can be used for Marine tanks (as compared to fresh)What recommendations do you have for cheap test kits?
I'm fairly confident from freshwater experience for fish, but have absolutely no clue how to expect something like shrimp to behave. I originally was planning on adding those later but the LFS talked me out of buying conches for them.
Failing to soak it will give you incorrect readings across most if not all params within first 24hrs.I'm personally hoping the incorrect ph is just me failing to even soak it at all.
I got hung-up on other things and didn't really think when I did that.
Hey buddy. Sorry you had to experience the last cpl pages at all. There seems to be alot of debate amongst some of my peers here and this seems to be one of the hottest topics.Currently at 1.028 ish Salinity.
Reccomend dropping that down to 1.025 as its a bit high?
I think he's doing a pretty good job with what he's doing. The rest is somewhat OFF TOPIC for @sc107 = ignore it if you want. I tend to believe that people believe 'computerized' - i.e. a digital result - more than a titration test (like API). It looks official, and its there in black and white its not us squinting to determine the color - I think this is a handicap in reefing not a help - especially for new reefers. I think this could be a 'work thread' - to show this. As compared to a successful work thread.Failing to soak it will give you incorrect readings across most if not all params within first 24hrs.
A good 48 hr soak is what id reccomend in the future.
That plus the particular bottle bac is all likely playing into abnormalities your seeing. I cant be 100% on that without another ph kit to confirm. But I can confidently say based on the exact same abnormalities I've seen using same bottle bac. If I was a betting man. Id 100% go all in thats what im observing again because I've seen same thing with that bottle bac too many times now.
We likely wouldn't even be having this conversation if you could confirm ph results
Completely agree...Hey buddy. Sorry you had to experience the last cpl pages at all. There seems to be alot of debate amongst some of my peers here and this seems to be one of the hottest topics.
Hopefully to set you at ease. I hope I was clear enough. I own a seneye. Have done enough real work with seneye, ammonia and your particular bottle bac to say conclusively that based on what you have observed. Especially taking into account you didnt soak slide correctly and the amount of time that has elapsed.
I dont think you have much to worry about at all. I'm 100% confident saying that. Pretty sure my peers would be as well if they have observed and done the work I've done.
Please do report back with tracking of ammonia blips after first few feedings.
I would work on getting that salinity down closer to 1.025. Not much room left for top off error sitting at that high level of salinity.
That statement about some of our peers being maybe just a little too smart for the majority of reefers may ring true. Haha realisticly we are all headed to same end result just getting there based on different working knowledge and experiences. We are all coming from same place of helpful conviction. Its interesting to say the least.Why do all of these threads end up with us agreeing @LRT
One thing I failed to ask thats probably important..Recently fed fish some frozen food (A mix of brine shrimp, rotifiers and some other stuff, its what they were on at LFS) and both Cardinals and 1 shrimp were interested and ate a good amount of food. I couldn't tell for the other shrimp as it was in a cave and could've easily gotten food through a nook or cranny in it. In freshwater the common theme is "if its eating food, its probably alright", which has helped anxiety in that regard.
Should be fine on overfeeding considering the amount left over, will continue to update for awhile.
Updated charts and image of tank below, only live-rock for filtration. Don't mind the background mess, unpacking from recent house move been slow.
Yup, even tried switching from Marine to Saltwater and back. You can tell by the 2 blips on free ammonia and ph.One thing I failed to ask thats probably important..
Is in your settings, did you check the box from fresh water to marine so seneye knows its in a saltwater tank?
Ok good.Yup, even tried switching from Marine to Saltwater and back. You can tell by the 2 blips on free ammonia and ph.
Not seen any rise in Ammonia from feeding yet, I don't know how long that'll take if I see any at all.
Main leftover N as NH4/NH3 is around 1/2 a hour after feeding to around 2 hour afterI don't know how long that'll take if I see any at all.