Several fish flashing, should I be worried?

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BSej

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If you look at the quarantine protocol which is listed as a 'stickie' at the top of the forum, that is the course we usually recommend. With that big a tank - I would have a sponge filter (the large one) - which has a large airstone - or even 2 sponge filters. I would be testing ammonia frequently (daily) with your copper measurements. I would recommend you add a bottled bacteria (for cycling) - such as Fritz 9000, to help with ammonia - it will colonize the sponge filter.
Does seachem pristine do the same thing? I have a bottle of that. If not i'll order the Fritz. Did you mean Fritz 900?

Update: I'm sure they're not the same after reading a bit more, ordering the Fritz 900.
 

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Does seachem pristine do the same thing? I have a bottle of that. If not i'll order the Fritz. Did you mean Fritz 900?

Update: I'm sure they're not the same after reading a bit more, ordering the Fritz 900.
They are 2 versions - Fritz 9000 has more bacteria. I am not familiar with Pristine
 

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For what it's worth, I wouldn't trust any product from Seachem to do what it claims to do. Lot's of people do cycle tanks with Fritz and Dr Tim's products. I don't have experience with products for cycling though.
 
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Do you do water changes during the copper treatment? I assume not, so will the water be suitable quality for 20 fish in a 55 gallon QT? I just read that you can do water changes with pre-dosed copper. Nvm
 
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Should I put 20 sections in the 55 gallon for each fish? Or can they just free roam?

What do I do if I can’t catch my Formosa or another fish?
 
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Jekyl

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Should I put 20 sections in the 55 gallon for each fish? Or can they just free roam?

What do I do if I can’t catch my Formosa or another fish?
Shouldn't need to add sections. A bunch of PVC elbows for hiding would be good though.

Catching fish at night, with a bottle trap, or after draining water can help with the hard to get ones.
 

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This is a complicated decision.

Tearing apart a tank to catch 20 fishes, including a sand sleeping wrasse and several large tangs will be a huge pain. Maybe it comes to that, but personally I wouldn't jump the gun on that just because of a couple spots on the hippo that may or may not be ich. The flashing could from the wrasse and blenny could very well be from the (probable) flukes.

If you didn't have so many corals, I would suggest hyposalinity in the display, as that would kill worms/flukes and ich. That won't work here.
 
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Shouldn't need to add sections. A bunch of PVC elbows for hiding would be good though.

Catching fish at night, with a bottle trap, or after draining water can help with the hard to get ones.
Draining water?
 
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This is a complicated decision.

Tearing apart a tank to catch 20 fishes, including a sand sleeping wrasse and several large tangs will be a huge pain. Maybe it comes to that, but personally I wouldn't jump the gun on that just because of a couple spots on the hippo that may or may not be ich. The flashing could from the wrasse and blenny could very well be from the (probable) flukes.

If you didn't have so many corals, I would suggest hyposalinity in the display, as that would kill worms/flukes and ich. That won't work here.
On top of that, I can’t even reach the back half of the tank because of the way we have it installed in the wall.
 

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Draining water?
Yeah. Some people call it the "high and dry" method. Drain the water out of the tank except for a few inches at the bottom. It works well on tangs, for example. Some fish, like dottys or blennies, will burrow into a hidey-hole in their favorite rock, so it doesn't work well for that.
 
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My LFS says prazipro doesn't treat gill flukes and to use formalin in the QT instead. Said to dose hydrogen peroxide instead to help.
 
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My LFS says prazipro doesn't treat gill flukes and to use formalin in the QT instead. Said to dose hydrogen peroxide instead to help.
Praziquantel is the ingredient in PraziPro that treats flukes. They are mistaken. Hydrogen peroxide can also help with ich, but you're already quarantining, so just use Copper Power. What fish store is this? I'm familiar with several in the Chicago area. Very few are strong with fish disease and most deal in volume/flipping of livestock.

You noted in a previous post on this thread that you keep your temp in the upper 80s. I hope that was a typo?
 
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Praziquantel is the ingredient in PraziPro that treats flukes. They are mistaken. Hydrogen peroxide can also help with ich, but you're already quarantining, so just use Copper Power. What fish store is this? I'm familiar with several in the Chicago area. Very few are strong with fish disease and most deal in volume/flipping of livestock.

You noted in a previous post on this thread that you keep your temp in the upper 80s. I hope that was a typo?
The Local Fish Store on Dempster

I don’t remember that so yes it would’ve been a typo. 77-78 F.
 
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If I get the blue tang out, is there a chance the ich hasn’t spread yet?

I can’t catch this thing for the life of me though. He doesn’t come anywhere near the net. I tried using seaweed, frozen shrimp, idk what to do
 
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I'm debating just catching all 20 by whatever means.. might have to take out all the rock/coral and then drain the water to catch them.
Stuffing them in the 55gal with copper and formalin, and praying for 3 months.

Or treat the gill flukes with prazipro in the DT.. and just living in fear of ich..

I really don't know what to do, this sucks.
 

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I'm debating just catching all 20 by whatever means.. might have to take out all the rock/coral and then drain the water to catch them.
Stuffing them in the 55gal with copper and formalin, and praying for 3 months.

Or treat the gill flukes with prazipro in the DT.. and just living in fear of ich..

I really don't know what to do, this sucks.
Just a thought, would it be easier to remove the coral? Hospital tank with copper is still probably the best bet. However, you could remove coral and run the tank at hyposalinity to combat ich also.
 
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Just a thought, would it be easier to remove the coral? Hospital tank with copper is still probably the best bet. However, you could remove coral and run the tank at hyposalinity to combat ich also.
I was just thinking about this.. Does hyposalinity eradicate ich and flukes? I could much more easily move all the coral to the QT and throw the light on top. Then run hypo to kill the ich and flukes and then bring the coral back once salinity is back up?

@nereefpat @Jay Hemdal @MnFish1
 
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Jekyl

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I was just thinking about this.. Does hyposalinity eradicate ich and flukes? I could much more easily move all the coral to the QT and throw the light on top. Then run hypo to kill the ich and flukes and then bring the coral back once salinity is back up?

@nereefpat @Jay Hemdal @MnFish1
Here is the method posted by Humblefish.


And another by Jay

 
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